While I was pulling the slide in my husband disconnected the 110 power cord. I then lost all power to the trailer. Plugged it back in to shore power there was a lag time before it came back on again but now when disconnected from shore power we have no power at all in the trailer. The battery is charged and when connected to the tow vehicle we only have power if the truck is running which is weird. Where is the power converter on a 2015 Windjammer 3008W or is there a main fuse for 12 volt operation?? We also had the surge protector on. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Also, remember the surge protector has a built-in delay of about 2-1/2 minutes. Or my Progressive does anyway. The battery may be charged and show 12+ volts, but you may want to take it and have it checked under load at a shop. I have had a battery that checked good on volts but didn't have enough amps when a load was applied. You said everything was dead. Interior lights also?
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D_B Travelers - 39 nights in 2018, 58 nights in 2017. [U]1st love: 2014 TT WJ3001w, now 2016 40' FW SOB, 2015 GMC 3500HD CC DRW Duramax, TST 507rv TPMS.
"Happiness? A good meal, a good cigar and a good woman - or a bad woman; it depends on how much happiness you can handle."
George Burns (1896 – 1996)
Oh boy, then I am thinking that the converter has died perhaps. I hope you have some other responses on this, but I have no experience troubleshooting the converter...yet. I will keep an eye on the thread so I can learn also.
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D_B Travelers - 39 nights in 2018, 58 nights in 2017. [U]1st love: 2014 TT WJ3001w, now 2016 40' FW SOB, 2015 GMC 3500HD CC DRW Duramax, TST 507rv TPMS.
"Happiness? A good meal, a good cigar and a good woman - or a bad woman; it depends on how much happiness you can handle."
George Burns (1896 – 1996)
That was my husbands next thing to do. The battery shows fully charged by he's thinking he should have it tested with a load on it. Hopefully it is just the battery.
If when you plug back in and have 12v power then the converter should not be the problem. I would connect a set of jumper cables to the TT battery and see if you get power. Frank
It may be that you have blown the reverse battery protection fuse or fuses in your power converter, depending on your model there are at least two, and as many as four. I am not sure what type of converter you have in your unit but a progressive dynamics unit has the battery protection fuses. they are on the right side on the bottom in my unit when you are looking at the unit. The battery connection from the running truck connects directly to the converter fuse bar and does not go through the battery protection fuses. So these fuses blown would account for all your symptoms.
Ok, the problem is fixed. It turned out that the screw holding the breakaway brake controller and the battery ground wire had snapped off and we lost the ground circuit for the battery. We just had to reattach with a self-tapping screw.
But in contacting Forest River Service Rep. we found out that under the trailer frame where the plug wire meets the junction box there is a small fuse block with a small reset button that would reset your 12 volt power. We did not have to reset it but we pass this information along to the forum in case anyone else can use it. Service Rep. Fred Yoder was very helpful and knowledgeable. Thank everyone who responded to our problem.
But in contacting Forest River Service Rep. we found out that under the trailer frame where the plug wire meets the junction box there is a small fuse block with a small reset button that would reset your 12 volt power. We did not have to reset it but we pass this information along to the forum in case anyone else can use it. Service Rep. Fred Yoder was very helpful and knowledgeable. Thank everyone who responded to our problem.
A picture of this fuse block would be nice to see if similar to post #5......
this gray/silver resettable breakers' pics are constantly being posted. Turbs is one that always posts it.
a Google search of 12v resettable breaker will bring up tons of pics of it.
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Oh boy, then I am thinking that the converter has died perhaps. I hope you have some other responses on this, but I have no experience troubleshooting the converter...yet. I will keep an eye on the thread so I can learn also.
Check rear of converter for fuses. Mine had two 40 amp and both were blown.
All lights are off and looked we don't have the black button under the a frame. Thanks
Check to see if you have 12 V going to your converter. If you can't get to the main terminals pull a fuse and check both sides of where they plug-in.
If you don't have 12 V there pull the thermals off the battery and clean them real good. When you checked the battery make sure you check it on the clamps, not the terminals of the battery itself. Check the converter for power again. No power? Try to trace the wires as best you can towards the converter from the battery. Look for any type of circuit breaker or fuse that is in line. It will be on the red line, the positive side. If you restore power to the converter and you still don't have anything working you got a bad converter. I hope that's not the case.
Jim
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"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
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Even though we found the problem my husband wanted to know where the reset button was for the inverter just for possible future problems. He sent the tech. a picture because what he was describing wasn't what my husband was seeing. The service tech from Forest River just called him back and said that only the 5th wheels have a reset button the travel trailers don't. Luckily ours was just the ground wire.
The unanswered question of why you have 12V power when connected to the TV but only when TV is running. Many newer TV's have a relay that disconnects the 12V acc line to the Bargman connector when the vehicle is not running to prevent loads in the RV from killing the TV battery. Sounds like yours is working. Some smaller TT have 3 way fridges that will run on 12V. If you stop for more than a short stop and the fridge is on DC it will kill the TV battery.
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