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Old 04-08-2013, 05:14 PM   #11
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If you're plugged into shorepower, the converter should be putting out at least 13.5V DC. If the batteries are fully charged, they should read about 12.7V DC. Can you check across the batteries and see what voltage you have?

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Old 04-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #12
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If you're plugged into shorepower, the converter should be putting out at least 13.5V DC. If the batteries are fully charged, they should read about 12.7V DC. Can you check across the batteries and see what voltage you have?

Dave
I do not have a volt meter but the panel says that the batteries are fully charged and we can run 110 appliances off of the batteries. ...not plugged into shore power.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:24 PM   #13
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I do not have a volt meter but the panel says that the batteries are fully charged and we can run 110 appliances off of the batteries. ...not plugged into shore power.
I was confused as in your first post you said you had 12V lighting until you plugged into shorepower for 30 minutes.

If you're not plugged into shorepower, have 120V from your invertor/batteries but no 12V power for lighting, it has to be a blown in-line fuse or tripped in line circuit breaker between the batteries and the DC side of the power center.

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Old 04-09-2013, 01:01 AM   #14
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I was confused as in your first post he said you had 12V lighting until you plugged into shorepower for 30 minutes.

If you're not plugged into shorepower, have 120V from your invertor/batteries but no 12V power for lighting, it has to be a blown in-line fuse or tripped in line circuit breaker between the batteries and the DC side of the power center.

Dave
We don't disagree...just can't find it. Is there a hidden fuse or circuit breaker somewhere?????
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:31 AM   #15
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I do not have a volt meter but the panel says that the batteries are fully charged

as we can see
it is probably time to buy a volt meter

way more reliable than the panel gages

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Old 04-09-2013, 07:34 AM   #16
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as we can see
it is probably time to buy a volt meter

way more reliable than the panel gages

Mountainmanbob
Yep mentioned this very first post.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:35 PM   #17
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Just checked the trailer....no batteries now either...dead..
Everything seems strange in that it all worked until 30 minutes after it was plugged in...then 12v stuff quit and now nothing works.
Time to take it in to be serviced...crud!
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:43 PM   #18
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Strange...very strange
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:54 AM   #19
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Maybe not, somewhere between the coach battery and the power center, there is a required current interrupter. This prevents the battery from becoming a huge fireball if a major elec. fault ocurred. It can be a manual or auto reset circuit breaker or fuse. Its supposed to be near the battery. Here's the tough part, did the converter cause the fault? Its paralled to the same bsttery to power center. Your description says it did. Key this now is are the batteries dead or circuit open? Get a meter or at least a glow light per Turbs and others.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:29 AM   #20
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Just checked the trailer....no batteries now either...dead..
Everything seems strange in that it all worked until 30 minutes after it was plugged in...then 12v stuff quit and now nothing works.
Time to take it in to be serviced...crud!
webemimipop, are you at a campground or at home where you are plugging into 110/120 volt?

If at home, what exactly did you plug your RV into?

As I stated in post #5, we have had other members plug their RV into a wrongly wired 110/120 volt outlet (it was actually wired for 220/240) and there was a delayed effect in their converter frying.

Like you said, it was strange......so I would definitely look at what you were plugged into.
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