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Old 06-10-2019, 04:25 PM   #21
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OK,,,,
Cables disconnected and converter ON,,,,, voltage coming from the converter is 15 volts.

I didn't think the converter (WF 8930-50) put out 15 volts, even in max mode.
What is the model number of the converter you are using?
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Old 06-10-2019, 04:28 PM   #22
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The highest voltage you should see from the inverter is 14.4V when it is in bulk mode. If it is the standard WFCO converter.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:35 PM   #23
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pgandw:
I checked my truck after it has been unstarted in 24 hours. It showed 13.8 volts. After I cranked it up, the voltage settled in at 16.0.

I will be ordering a new multimeter (more money).

Flybob:
I made a mistake on the post,,,,that is not my converter number. That is my power panel number. My converter is so far behind so many wires I can barely see it. I am not taking the power panel out to get to the converter unless it is a last resort.
WFCO tech rep returned my email and said he had never heard of a converter getting stuck in bulk or higher mode.

Thanks again for all the help everyone. As of now, I'm going with everything is OK and my meters are off. I'll verify once I get a better one.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:58 PM   #24
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If you want a high quality meter, the Fluke 115 is a great one and is one of their less expensive ones. They aren't cheap but you won't be chasing your tail like you have been.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:59 PM   #25
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Depends on the temperature of your battery but at 70°F it's around 14.5V. Max battery charge voltage goes up as battery temp goes down.

http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-cont...cal-Manual.pdf

Personally, I would double check with a higher quality meter than a Hyper Tough. I hate cheap meters with a passion. Frind of mine nearly replaced his alternator once after measuring with a cheap meter. I took out my Fluke and checked and his voltages were fine. Measuring voltage and having 2 cheap meters agree is not enough for me.
X2

The voltages indicated would more likely than not have destroyed the AGM's as they are well into the "equalization" range.

I have similar discussions among fellow hand loaders all the time regarding scales. We use scales measuring in tenths of a grain. Some will have a set of test weights that are measured against a standard and others will jump up and down claiming their scales are accurate because they compared readings against another scale they owned. The latter group is always complaining about results or sometimes even damage.

While not an exact "standard" a Silver Oxide "Coin" type battery is a pretty good way to check a cheap meter. The Silver Oxide batteries will have an open circuit voltage of 1.6 volts which might drop to 1.55 v under the load of a cheap meter. These batteries have a very flat discharge curve and only drop when near the end of their life. Silver Oxide batteries are designated by an SR prefix in their number and are available most anywhere.

Check the voltage on one of these and it'll give you a fairly good idea of the meter's accuracy. My guess is that the OP's meter might read more like 1.9 volts on one of these 1.6 volt batteries.


To babcock's statement, it's amazing how much a cheap voltmeter can end up costing you in the end.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:20 PM   #26
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My Fluke DMM flaked out on me a couple of years ago. Drove me crazy and I wasted all kinds of time with two different electrical systems. It's not just cheap DMMs that can cost you time.

Replaced it with a $30 Craftsman branded DMM, which has been flawless. If I were an electrician or worked this stuff routinely, I'd go back to Fluke. But, for 3-8 times per year, my little Craftsman has been superb. Just get one with auto-range feature and you'll be set.
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Old 06-11-2019, 02:12 PM   #27
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FINAL RESOLUTION OF THIS POST

Some times, there posts on this forum where a question is asked and comments made but no final resolution to the original question is posted. This is my follow up post listing the final resolution. Or at least final in my mind. Before post it, I want to thank everyone for their help in this problem. It saved me time, money and headaches. I would say saved me some grey hair, but I don't think I can get much less grey.

With the strong implication that both my cheap voltage monitor plugged into my cigarette connection and old analog (needle reading) multimeter was giving me inaccurate results, I went to the local Tractor Supply store and bought a new digital, yep digital, multimeter. I'm cooking with gas now that I have a digital one. It was the only one they had in stock and cost only $30.00.

Got back to the RV and compared the new multimeter with the cheapo voltage monitor. This comparison was at the cigarette lighter connection with the batteries and converter on. Cheap monitor read 15.3 volts, new multimeter was 13.7 volts.

Next I disconnected the batteries and converter and checked with new multimeter. The batteries read 13.56. This check was done with only about 5 minutes of resting without converter sending juice. They would normally drop after resting longer but I was satisfied with the 13.56 reading.

Next I checked the converter connection (short stop breaker) near the batteries. This should give the voltage coming from the converter to the batteries. It read 13.71 with the new multimeter. This should fall near the Normal (absorption) mode of the converter. This also matched the reading from the cigarette lighter connection check.

Lessons Learned:
1) Analog (needle dial) multimeters should be thrown away. Mine is. It may have been accurate but I couldn't read the needle to within +/- 2 volts. I was using it to roughly check the cheap monitor which had apparently gone out.
2) The cheap monitor did it's job for the last 4 years that it has been in use. Apparently something happened to it within the last 4 to 6 weeks. I may replace it and may not. Heck I think it was only $5.00.
3) If my converter goes out, it will be heck to get to in order to replace it.
4) My AGM batteries are still working great and are now 4 years old. I do absolutely zero maintenance on them other than to look at them now and then to see if any corrosion is occurring on the terminals. None has appeared in 4 years. I know I'm going to catch some heat from people because of this statement, but that is the reason I bought the AGM's was because of their very low maintenance requirements.

Ya'll take care and be safe out there.
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:06 PM   #28
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Thank you very much for the final conclusion. Much appreciated!
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:39 PM   #29
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Analog meters are sensitive to shock. Dropping or jostling can bend the needle, the delicate spring, dislodge the magnets or coils. I have a old Radio Shack Micronta 22-210 that is still accurate. I haven't used it in 40 years but I get it out every so often just to check it.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:27 PM   #30
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4) My AGM batteries are still working great and are now 4 years old. I do absolutely zero maintenance on them other than to look at them now and then to see if any corrosion is occurring on the terminals. None has appeared in 4 years. I know I'm going to catch some heat from people because of this statement, but that is the reason I bought the AGM's was because of their very low maintenance requirements.

Ya'll take care and be safe out there.
First off thanks for coming back with the solution to your problem. It helps some of us either validate our suggestions or realize we were full of crap

As for catching heat for just looking at your AGM's, what would those people expect you to do with them? Wash and wax them? Play soft music and talk nice to them?

You're doing all you can to them by keeping terminals clean.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:59 PM   #31
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FINAL RESOLUTION OF THIS POST



Some times, there posts on this forum where a question is asked and comments made but no final resolution to the original question is posted. This is my follow up post listing the final resolution. Or at least final in my mind. Before post it, I want to thank everyone for their help in this problem. It saved me time, money and headaches. I would say saved me some grey hair, but I don't think I can get much less grey.



With the strong implication that both my cheap voltage monitor plugged into my cigarette connection and old analog (needle reading) multimeter was giving me inaccurate results, I went to the local Tractor Supply store and bought a new digital, yep digital, multimeter. I'm cooking with gas now that I have a digital one. It was the only one they had in stock and cost only $30.00.



Got back to the RV and compared the new multimeter with the cheapo voltage monitor. This comparison was at the cigarette lighter connection with the batteries and converter on. Cheap monitor read 15.3 volts, new multimeter was 13.7 volts.



Next I disconnected the batteries and converter and checked with new multimeter. The batteries read 13.56. This check was done with only about 5 minutes of resting without converter sending juice. They would normally drop after resting longer but I was satisfied with the 13.56 reading.



Next I checked the converter connection (short stop breaker) near the batteries. This should give the voltage coming from the converter to the batteries. It read 13.71 with the new multimeter. This should fall near the Normal (absorption) mode of the converter. This also matched the reading from the cigarette lighter connection check.



Lessons Learned:

1) Analog (needle dial) multimeters should be thrown away. Mine is. It may have been accurate but I couldn't read the needle to within +/- 2 volts. I was using it to roughly check the cheap monitor which had apparently gone out.

2) The cheap monitor did it's job for the last 4 years that it has been in use. Apparently something happened to it within the last 4 to 6 weeks. I may replace it and may not. Heck I think it was only $5.00.

3) If my converter goes out, it will be heck to get to in order to replace it.

4) My AGM batteries are still working great and are now 4 years old. I do absolutely zero maintenance on them other than to look at them now and then to see if any corrosion is occurring on the terminals. None has appeared in 4 years. I know I'm going to catch some heat from people because of this statement, but that is the reason I bought the AGM's was because of their very low maintenance requirements.



Ya'll take care and be safe out there.


Thanks for the update. Yes DMMs are excellent, but I have a Simpson 260 that I will and have trusted my life to.

The other day I grabbed my old Fluke 73 and checked a 110 AC circuit and was like...what?
I went to the the trucK/TV and got my T5-600 and confirmed these guys...put a new 9V in when I got home.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:21 PM   #32
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What converter do you have and how are you turning it off? Do you have an inverter as well?
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:48 AM   #33
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I don't have an inverter.

I suspect I have some type of WFCO brand converter but am not 100% positive since it is "hidden" behind a mass of wires. The only piece of it I can see is the grate over the fan. I hope I never have to replace it and I'm so glad that I've confirmed it was not the problem.

My converter is wired to a 120 AC breaker in the power panel. I just flip the breaker off.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:04 AM   #34
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I don't have an inverter.

I suspect I have some type of WFCO brand converter but am not 100% positive since it is "hidden" behind a mass of wires. The only piece of it I can see is the grate over the fan. I hope I never have to replace it and I'm so glad that I've confirmed it was not the problem.

My converter is wired to a 120 AC breaker in the power panel. I just flip the breaker off.
For future reference, if it's like most WFCO power panels, the whole front plate of the panel unscrews with 4 screws and then it's easy to replace the converter.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:15 AM   #35
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I removed the cover and was hoping my converter would be located right below it and could easily be slid out. Nope,,,, mine is screwed to the floor about 1 foot behind the panel with all of the wires going to the panel located between the access and converter. That is why I hope I never have to access it. Fortunately for me, they at least wired the converter to a breaker where I could turn it on and off instead of having to use on/off switch on the converter.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:10 AM   #36
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First off thanks for coming back with the solution to your problem. It helps some of us either validate our suggestions or realize we were full of crap

As for catching heat for just looking at your AGM's, what would those people expect you to do with them? Wash and wax them? Play soft music and talk nice to them?

You're doing all you can to them by keeping terminals clean.
As long as those looks have affection and sparkles in the eyes I wouldn't complain. I do like a bath and a little pampering once in a while. Also, soft music and whispered sweet nothings make me content and happy as a pig in a wallow.

Best wishes & happy camping, AGM Battery
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:46 AM   #37
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Digital Multimeters & Converters.

For DMM look at Klein they get very good reviews and are not too expensive. Just purchased a CL800 with DC/AC amp clamp.

For converters I read good things for Progressive and they have direct replacement for WFCO models.


Good Day.
Hope this helps.
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:24 PM   #38
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Thanks for the update. Yes DMMs are excellent, but I have a Simpson 260 that I will and have trusted my life to.
Yep. Can't beat a Simpson 260. I used one in the Navy and during my career with two major Aerospace companies. Sometimes, I wish I had one.
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:57 PM   #39
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Problem with a meter like the Simpson is its low input impedance which is why in all the labs I have worked in in the last 30 years in aerospace, automotive...don't use them anymore.

They are fine for measuring voltages of power supplies but pretty much useless for measuring voltages within circuits.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:13 PM   #40
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Problem with a meter like the Simpson is its low input impedance which is why in all the labs I have worked in in the last 30 years in aerospace, automotive...don't use them anymore.

They are fine for measuring voltages of power supplies but pretty much useless for measuring voltages within circuits.
True, but it's an awesome meter for analog circuits. I retired in 2014 from Lockheed Martin Space Systems where we used Simpson 260's and Fluke DMM's. It just depends on the application.
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