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Old 09-13-2011, 07:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrider View Post
Also what size generator where you using, and did you plug the camper in to the genny, or did you use a 12 volt charging circuit hooked to the battery? If using the 12 volt charge, what amperage rating is it, based on generator specs?
REAL GOOD POINT.
Most generators have a battery charge output but it's minimal at best.
Much better to use a stand alone charger (25 amp automatic) if you're in a hurry or plug in
the trailer if you're not.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:27 PM   #12
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Windrider,

I understand about who installed the battery, but Forest River engineering has to provide the converter/charger supplier with specific specifications which they design to. So in order the create those specifications for the converter/charger, Forest River must make some assumptions (most likely very little assumption and more likely very specific information about the output current that is provided by converter/charger).

I'm asking the question because I would like to know if there is a "problem" or not. As you have indicated, maybe there is not a "problem" but more an education on my part of what components are on (water heater being one that you listed and indeed was on the entire time) and using the power.

My objective in this line of questioning and learning - Do I have a technical problem with the TT as well as an education process - which I'm getting and appreciate everyone's input or is their no technical problem with the TT and it is all education.

Please continue to provide idea's and suggestions
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:03 PM   #13
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Out of the box thought.

Have you checked the little black rocker switch for the climate control (defroster) switch in the freezer compartment?

It is a 12 VDC heating element and the circuit runs constantly when on.
It will kill even a LARGE capacity 12VDC battery in less than 24 hours.

It must be "OFF" when boondocking.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:51 AM   #14
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Some have posted here that the little heater between freezer and fresh food
door is 120v AC only but I'm not sure about that. It might be in the manual.
I keep mine off all the time just to be sure.
OTOH if it is DC that is a big item that needs to be off any time you're
on battery power.

Also this is a good one to check--
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlhoppe View Post
Any chance you have tank heaters? That would do it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:04 AM   #15
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Verrrry interesting

Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Out of the box thought.

Have you checked the little black rocker switch for the climate control (defroster) switch in the freezer compartment?

It is a 12 VDC heating element and the circuit runs constantly when on.
It will kill even a LARGE capacity 12VDC battery in less than 24 hours.

It must be "OFF" when boondocking.


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Old 09-14-2011, 10:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Some have posted here that the little heater between freezer and fresh food
door is 120v AC only but I'm not sure about that. It might be in the manual.
I keep mine off all the time just to be sure.
OTOH if it is DC that is a big item that needs to be off any time you're
on battery power.

Also this is a good one to check--
I posted the manual. The Dometic fridges are 12VDC.
See page 11 Caution

Also as Dan said 12vdc tank heaters have huge DC draws.
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File Type: pdf DM 2652operation.pdf (193.7 KB, 18 views)
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:33 AM   #17
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Lou said-- I posted the manual. The Dometic fridges (condensation heater
between the freezer door and fresh food door)are 12VDC.
See page 11 Caution

Dan said-- WHAT WERE THEY THINKING?!?!
Sheesh, that condensation heater should be AC only. If I'm on battery
power the least of my worries is a few drops of moisture between the doors.

This is another switch to remember to check when on generator or battery
power.
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