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Old 11-14-2018, 08:58 PM   #1
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2018 fr3 120 volt circuits

2018 fr3 32 foot

is there a way to obtain a diagram that shows which outlets and appliances are on the 120 v system....i.e. What circuit is the refrig or the water heater on.

What is on the bathroom gfci beside the bathroom

are all the outlets except the micro and bathroom on the same 15 amp circuit
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:31 PM   #2
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From what I've read on this forum it is impossible to get FR or any other RV manufacturer to share a wiring diagram with an owner. My personal opinion is that none of the RV manufacturers have wiring diagrams, they just wire them as they see it in the factory. A tester to find out which circuit breaker is connected to each 120vAC outlet can be found at most big box home improvement stores for around $40.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:58 PM   #3
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A 120vac outlet tester is available at hardware stores and walmart for around 5 bucks. Plug it into an outlet and turn off the breakers 1 by 1 till the 2 orange lights go out. Or you can use a table lamp.
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Old 11-15-2018, 09:22 AM   #4
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THANX...I was hoping to see a diagram that would include the Refrig and the water heater, as there is not a breaker that is labeled as either.

I have tested all the outlets, I guess I can turn on the water heater and the refrig and shut off breakers until the appliances shut off.

Maybe, somewhere there is a wiring diagram.
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Old 11-15-2018, 02:34 PM   #5
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Just like Scrapper suggested the 120V outlet tester is a home and RV must have in your toolbox. Not only confirms voltage present, that it is proper voltage range, if a neutral, ground or load is reversed. In addition to plugging it in and flipping breakers you can also use the 120v testers that have the GFCI tester button. If you don't already know what outlets are tied together on one GFCI you need to know before you go. It is a real pain trying to find who the culprit is or where the GFCI receptacle is that is tripped. I never trust a breaker panel marking without testing and confirming. Many a worker has gotten a real shock... breaker was off, but unfortunately the plug was powered from somewhere else.
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Old 11-15-2018, 03:08 PM   #6
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The water heater is definitely on a circuit by itself and should be labeled as such. A/C will also be on its own circuit and labeled as such. A/C will be a 20 amp breaker. GFI circuit should be labeled as such. If you don't have a GFI breaker, you will find a GFI outlet in the bathroom. All outlets within 6' of a water source will be on this circuit. The fridge will be with something else.

If you don't have the aforementioned tester us a table lamp.
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Old 11-15-2018, 03:54 PM   #7
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Why don't you post a pic of the labels on the breaker panel?
Maybe we can help decypher it.
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Old 11-15-2018, 03:55 PM   #8
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GFCI breaker

Quote:
Originally Posted by FRIDLEY View Post
2018 fr3 32 foot

is there a way to obtain a diagram that shows which outlets and appliances are on the 120 v system....i.e. What circuit is the refrig or the water heater on.

What is on the bathroom gfci beside the bathroom

are all the outlets except the micro and bathroom on the same 15 amp circuit
I cannot claim to have seen every trailer, but every trailer I've seen has ONE GFCI outlet or breaker. That one outlet/breaker protects the bathroom(s), outlet near the kitchen sink, and outside outlets.

The outlet tester is nice to have, but if you aren't technical, you can do just as well with a nightlight.

Larry
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Old 11-15-2018, 04:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRIDLEY View Post
THANX...I was hoping to see a diagram that would include the Refrig and the water heater, as there is not a breaker that is labeled as either.

I have tested all the outlets, I guess I can turn on the water heater and the refrig and shut off breakers until the appliances shut off.

Maybe, somewhere there is a wiring diagram.
If the fridge is a residential type it will be in the inverter.
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Old 11-15-2018, 04:17 PM   #10
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Thanks to all...

I can do all the self checking. I do have a circuit tester, and table lamps and hair dryers, etc. that I can use.

It would just be nice if I had the diagram for my file instead of a drawing that I made for the file.

I can test and label each outlet, etc.

Thank you again for all the responses.
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Old 11-15-2018, 04:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRIDLEY View Post
Thanks to all...

I can do all the self checking. I do have a circuit tester, and table lamps and hair dryers, etc. that I can use.

It would just be nice if I had the diagram for my file instead of a drawing that I made for the file.

I can test and label each outlet, etc.

Thank you again for all the responses.
Unfortunately, manufacturer's drawings are only useful if they are used and maintained throughout the life of the equipment. Having worked many electronics projects (microwave, command centers, radio transmitters, etc), drawings have to maintained through a progression to be useful 5 years later. The engineer's design has to be "red-lined" to reflect the actual installation (actual vs design never matches perfectly). If the contract requires it, the red-lines are incorporated into new drawings called "as-builts". As time goes on, and components are changed out and/or replaced, the as-builts have to be updated with red lines to show the changes. Or they become not so "as-is". At some point, all the red-lines will again have to be incorporated into a new set of drawings to make them readable.

Forest River "electricians" do not have time to consult a diagram when they are wiring an RV. But they wire enough RVs that they pretty much know the basics to get everything working - most of the time. In the 2 FR A-frames I have bought new, the fuse and CB panels had some labeling on them. And the wire color code/function chart (glued on the back of the front panel of the converter) matched the actual wiring. I found this out when I replaced the WFCO converter/panel (one piece unit in A-frames). I was a pretty happy camper that I only had to verify the circuit labels and wire color chart, and make them more complete when I was done.

Unless you have a new house that has never been updated, you have the same problem - any drawings no longer reflect reality. The original circuit breaker panel labels are only partially correct. In my house, air conditioning and a sump pump were added after the house was built. Later on the basement was finished, and a basement subpanel added. I built a partial kitchen in the basement, and so added outlets, lighting, garbage disposal, and microwave circuits. I had to completely redo the subpanel labelling to reflect the new circuit breaker layout.

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Old 11-16-2018, 10:36 AM   #12
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Even if you had a wiring diagram, it probably is not right. I have a Thor and they email you the diagrams if you want them. I have 120 volt and 12 volt diagrams for the MH and they are nice drawings , but do not match what is there. The diagram shows the Trombetta relay at the top of the battery compartment where it would easy to change out. Mine is on the floor, behind the batteries. I had to take the batteries out to replace it. The wiring is done how the installer feels like doing it, it is easer to install the Trombetta on the floor, so it went there.


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