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Old 10-14-2012, 01:30 PM   #21
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My concern is how long is your drop cord? I ran a 150' drop cord on my RV and it smoked the reciptical it was plugged into. Amps increase the farther it has to push.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Wildwood1 View Post
I ran the trailer on a 14/2 100' extension cord for 3 years and funny thing the house is still standing! I dont plan on using the trailer outlets to weld.
If you feel safe doing what you're doing, and we can't convince you otherwise, then press on with pride. Just saying the physics of what you are doing indicates otherwise.

Your house; your trailer; your family.
Good luck and safe camping.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:53 PM   #23
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Building codes don't apply to extention cords but they do to hard wiring. They are there to protect you, others around you and people from themselves and most are MINUMUM guidelines, you can always over compensate or overbuild!
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:34 AM   #24
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Lou, when I was looking for wire size calculators.....I came across the following pdf that explains the basics of electricity in the home.

I thought it was extremely informative, especially for the average layman, and the purpose of the document is to familiarize home inspectors to the basics of electricity.

At the bottom of page 16, it starts touching on wire sizing and not using the right size breaker for the size wire which can lead to overheating. It also explains that electricians don't trust breakers to always protect the circuit.

I thought you might want to add it to your ever expanding library, or the Herkapedia, as we call it.

http://www.recampus.com/documents/book4_c01.pdf
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:36 AM   #25
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Thanks. It is an excellent addition to my library.
If you have not read "One Second After" by Forstchen I will loan it to you.
Lou
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
If you feel safe doing what you're doing, and we can't convince you otherwise, then press on with pride. Just saying the physics of what you are doing indicates otherwise.

Your house; your trailer; your family.
Good luck and safe camping.
Herk
My laptop picked up a virus so i was down for a few days! But to recap, I did a little research and a 12/2 wire can run 18 amps just fine, with a 20 amp breaker. My air conditioner cuts in at 18 amps and runs on 15 amps, should be o.k. At a 28 amp draw the wire is safe but the 20 amp breaker would trip. I would have a problem if EVERYTHING inside the trailer was used at once (microwave,2 tv's, AC, etc), but being in the driveway this would not be the case! My main reason for this wiring project was to get rid of the cord along the edge of the driveway, the chances of actually running anything other than keeping the battery charged will be slim to nil !!
I do appreciate the concern and i will definitely change that 30 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker.
Thanks all for the concern.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:20 AM   #27
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Just make sure the real electrician knows that it is NOT wired like a 220 volt circuit. It is 110volt. IF, he wires it with (2) 110v legs and a neutral, it will burn out your electronics.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:41 AM   #28
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I do appreciate the concern and i will definitely change that 30 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker.
Thanks all for the concern.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Wildwood1 View Post
I do appreciate the concern and i will definitely change that 30 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker.
Thanks all for the concern.
That was what I did. I run the AC and TV or tv and fireplace (1500 watts) with a 20 amp breaker and 12/2 myself. The line has a 20 amp breaker and never trips. It was the 30 amp breaker that made your install unsafe (IMO).
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #30
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I'm planning to put a 30A outlet on the outside wall of the garage this fall. We have a C/B on one leg of out panel that supplies a dedicated outlet in the "Computer room", as designated by the builder. We use it as the guest bedroom.

I plan to replace that c/b with the same make and model 30A breaker, disconnect and cap the wiring to the "computer room", then run new wiring to a TT-30R receptacle outside. It will be in a weather-proof box with a weather-resistant "in-use" cover. I'll be getting a neighbor who's a professional electrician to look over my installation before I activate it.

We occasionally use the moored RV as a guest cottage, so a 30A service is useful, particularly for the electric element in the water heater and for simulataneous use of hair dryers, toasters, coffee makers etc., for which non-RVers tend to not consider the current drain.
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