50 Amp connection or???

larry2c · 02-26-2018, 09:15 PM

We have owned our home for 30+ years and until this past weekend I always thought that the 50 amp panel and connector in the garage was probably something the original owner of the house had installed to support a welder or some other power hungry 220V thing (not for a dryer, laundry is across the garage from here).

Over the weekend while installing our new EMS into our TT it dawned on me that maybe the original owner had a RV and this was actually a 50 Amp hookup for the RV. I don't know if you can tell anything from the pictures but maybe. If not, how do I determine if this is a 240V outlet or a 50 Amp 120V outlet? Our TT only needs a 30 Amp connection and in the driveway, I just use an adapter for a regular 15 Amp outlet and that works fine for setup & clean out.

merlinhomeauto · 02-26-2018, 09:33 PM

That is not a 50 amp for an RV, more likely for a welder but can easily be changed for RV.

Kimber45 · 02-26-2018, 09:40 PM

X2. a 50 amp camper probably didn't exist 30 years ago? The hard part is done. Can easily changed out for what you need. Just make sure you are getting advise from a knowledgeable source and use the correct gauge wire.

boydman · 02-26-2018, 09:44 PM

Looks like an old 50amp 125/250 range plug

Oaklevel · 02-26-2018, 09:52 PM

That's not a 50A RV outlet.

cavie · 02-26-2018, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry2c

We have owned our home for 30+ years and until this past weekend I always thought that the 50 amp panel and connector in the garage was probably something the original owner of the house had installed to support a welder or some other power hungry 220V thing (not for a dryer, laundry is across the garage from here).

Over the weekend while installing our new EMS into our TT it dawned on me that maybe the original owner had a RV and this was actually a 50 Amp hookup for the RV. I don't know if you can tell anything from the pictures but maybe. If not, how do I determine if this is a 240V outlet or a 50 Amp 120V outlet? Our TT only needs a 30 Amp connection and in the driveway, I just use an adapter for a regular 15 Amp outlet and that works fine for setup & clean out.

That's a 50 amp 220 volt 3 wire outlet. It's a range outlet probably installed for a welder. Do not attempt to make an adapter for that. Get a 30 amp 3 wire 120 volt RV outlet. Install a 30 amp single pole breaker. Be very sure you put the hot leg on the correct blade. Being that is a discontinued panel and probably not gonna find one, you can install a 2 pole breaker which you can find and use just 1 side. If you must you can use the 50 amp 2 pole, just as an adapter would do, and the 30 amp in your trailer will protect the wire.

Oaklevel · 02-26-2018, 10:06 PM

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post231880

Hopefully this link will help.

larry2c · 02-26-2018, 10:18 PM

Thanks all - I appreciate the replies! And I didn't realize that a 50 Amp RV was something "more modern". As far as converting it to a 50 Amp outlet for our TT, I doubt I'll go that route, as I said the regular outlet provides all the power we need for now. Maybe I'll just go buy a big ole Lincoln welder!

CedarCreekWoody · 02-27-2018, 07:20 AM

Always nice to have a good welder but you have the wiring in place if you want to convert that to a 30 or 50 amp RV outlet.

Steve-W · 02-27-2018, 08:20 AM

The service panel and wire (4 cond 6 AWG or bigger) going to the receptacle is correct for a 50 amp RV. The receptacle itself is incorrect. All you need to do is replace the receptacle with the correct one. Then use a 50 to 30 amp dogbone to connect to your 30 amp coach. I would set it up for 50 amp in case in the future you have a 50 amp coach.

This is the receptacle you need.
NEMA 14-50R

cavie · 02-27-2018, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve-W

The service panel and wire (4 cond 6 AWG or bigger) going to the receptacle is correct for a 50 amp RV. The receptacle itself is incorrect. All you need to do is replace the receptacle with the correct one. Then use a 50 to 30 amp dogbone to connect to your 30 amp coach. I would set it up for 50 amp in case in the future you have a 50 amp coach.

This is the receptacle you need.
NEMA 14-50R

I'll add. While you're at it, separate the grounds and neutral in the panel. Insulate the neutral from the can. Attach the grounds to the can.

Steve-W · 02-27-2018, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

I'll add. While you're at it, separate the grounds and neutral in the panel. Insulate the neutral from the can. Attach the grounds to the can.

Good catch, since it's a sub-panel they need to be isolated.

overeasy · 02-27-2018, 02:46 PM

You've got great advice already I just need to ask ,what does that motor to the right in your picture do in your house?

HDU · 02-27-2018, 05:22 PM

Overeasy, looks like a drill press to me.

D. J. Schuler · 02-27-2018, 05:50 PM

Normal home 50 amp 250 volts will fry your converter/distribution panel. Follow the previous suggestions and avoid the arcs and sparks.

tgold · 02-27-2018, 06:57 PM

That is a 240 volt circuit but wrong receptacle for 50 amp Rv. Panel is old Zinco if you wanted to change to 30 amp 120 volts you could but not likely to find a Zinco breaker and if you do it may be pricey. Zinco is no longer made and for a reason. Cheaper to change out panel likely and would be safer.

larry2c · 02-27-2018, 08:24 PM

Thanks cavie - I'm not exactly sure exactly what the reasoning for that change would be but if it's a safety issue, I certainly want to get it right (though as I said its been that way for 30+ years).

Regarding the motor in the picture - that's a midsize knee mill (made in China of course). I worked as a machinist for a good chunk of my life so having a mill in the garage seemed like a necessity - to be followed by a small lathe one of these days

cavie · 02-27-2018, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgold

That is a 240 volt circuit but wrong receptacle for 50 amp Rv. Panel is old Zinco if you wanted to change to 30 amp 120 volts you could but not likely to find a Zinco breaker and if you do it may be pricey. Zinco is no longer made and for a reason. Cheaper to change out panel likely and would be safer.

I'll add that if your insurance company sees that you'll have to change it. They are on a hit list along with other brands.

cavie · 02-27-2018, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry2c

Thanks cavie - I'm not exactly sure exactly what the reasoning for that change would be but if it's a safety issue, I certainly want to get it right (though as I said its been that way for 30+ years).

Regarding the motor in the picture - that's a midsize knee mill (made in China of course). I worked as a machinist for a good chunk of my life so having a mill in the garage seemed like a necessity - to be followed by a small lathe one of these days

Zinsco, Sylvania, and Challenger have been put on a hitlist of uninsurable products just like fuses. All are out of business. They are known to start fires. They tend to not trip when required. If found during a home inspection of a sale it will stop the closing until replaced. I have made lots of money on panel change outs over the last 15 or so years. That small panel is cheap. I hope your main panel is not one of them.

larry2c · 02-27-2018, 10:50 PM

It's cold outside right now (by So Cal standards) so I'll look at the main panel tomorrow but it appears to me the box in the garage was added after the house was built so I expect the main breaker panel to be different. I will check though.

I will be retiring soon and I'm trying to get a lot of the house fix'er ups finished before I do. Can you give me an idea on what having the 50 Amp box swapped out would cost? From your perspective, would switching it to a 50 Amp RV connection add much to the cost if I did it at the same time?

I have been known to play with electricity occasionally but this seems like a level above my skills (dang, no lightening bolt emoji!)

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