50 amp Electrical per Line

[larryandamy]

You do not need 4/0 copper.
I hope you are not confusing 4 AWG with 4/0... 4/0 is way huge and way overkill. 4/0 copper would handle 150 amps in copper for 160 feet.

The calculator says for 50 amps at 160 feet you need #2 AWG copper.
You would need 1/0 in aluminum.

I hope you decide not to use copper.
In 20 years it is still not OK to have a fire. Even if you are gone and it is someone else's fire.

[D. J. Schuler]

Please read about AL wire, it takes special fittings/connections. Like several of the posts in the 70s Al wired homes had to be rewired - wouldn't pass electrical inspections.

[2nd House]

OK, so I got back from the property and looked at the install the electric company has completed.

* The meter loop pole has a Square D 200 amp breaker box attached, with a 200 amp main principle shut off, and 8 knockouts for circuits.
* Voltage reading is approximately 119 to 121 volts and 238 to 242 volts between the two hot leads (the fluctuation may be from my cheap Craftsman multimeter)
* I will install a 100 amp breaker at the 200 amp breaker box at the meter loop
* I will install an 80 amp sub-panel at the RV port
* I will connect the sub-panel to the main breaker box with aluminum 2/0,2/0,2/0 & #1, direct burial at a 2' depth, cable enclosed in conduit only at open air from ground to boxes. I will line the trench with P-Gravel for aided drainage
* I will install the 50 amp 14-50R camper plug with a 50 amp breaker at the sub-panel (14-50R plug is next to the sub-panel)
* The meter loop pole is a maximum 172' from the camper.
* I will terminate the aluminum ends with Noalox


Finial thoughts?
Thank you for everyone's help

[CHICKDOE]

just a thought. you might want to consider installing a normal 110 volt outlet off the subpanel by the trailer. you could use it to power hand tools and other things when working on the trailer. I would think you could power it from one leg of the cable you are installing so it shouldn't require any additional cable to be run. but I am not an electrician so do not take this as gospel!

[Bama Rambler]

Sounds like you have it covered. Just make sure that the feeder and panel breaker lugs will handle the 2/0 wire size, and are rated for use with aluminum wire (most are, but there are a few exceptions).

I agree with ChickDoe about adding a convenience receptacle at the pedestal.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

just a thought. you might want to consider installing a normal 110 volt outlet off the subpanel by the trailer. you could use it to power hand tools and other things when working on the trailer. I would think you could power it from one leg of the cable you are installing so it shouldn't require any additional cable to be run. but I am not an electrician so do not take this as gospel!

No electrician here either, but I think that would entail a sub-panel and a 15/20 amp breaker which is a good idea.

[ScottBrownstein]

Actually, that is what a subpanel allows. You feed it with split phase and you can wire a 50 amp split phase outlet, a 30 amp single phase outlet and a 20 or 15 amp duplex outlet. Bear in mind that you will need a main breaker, a duplex for the 50 amp and a 30 and 15 or 20 for the regular outlet. No additional feed wiring required. That means you need a subpanel with the main and 4 breaker slots for the outlets.

All in all pretty simple.

[2nd House]

So the two problems I have are:

1. The main breaker box is a Square D Homeline box. The 100 amp breaker will only hold a 1/0 wire at best (and that is questionable). So, I'm told to use a split bolt (rated for aluminum and copper) and go from 2/0 to a #1 copper which will fit the 100 amp breaker.
2. How on earth I'm supposed to bend large cable at a 90 degree to go straight into the breaker is beyond me. It would be great if there were a 90 degree adapter.

Thanks

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by 2nd House

So the two problems I have are:



1. The main breaker box is a Square D Homeline box. The 100 amp breaker will only hold a 1/0 wire at best (and that is questionable). So, I'm told to use a split bolt (rated for aluminum and copper) and go from 2/0 to a #1 copper which will fit the 100 amp breaker.

2. How on earth I'm supposed to bend large cable at a 90 degree to go straight into the breaker is beyond me. It would be great if there were a 90 degree adapter.



Thanks

Can you come from the side of the box?? Is that allowed? I'm not up on code, but that may answer.

That breaker is rated for 2/0-4 ga.

[2nd House]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

Can you come from the side of the box?? Is that allowed? I'm not up on code, but that may answer.

That breaker is rated for 2/0-4 ga.

I thought about going in from the side this very day at work...just sort of popped into my head!
I'm going out there tomorrow Saturday and see if there is a knock out. if so, that may very well be the answer.
I was not aware that breaker would handle a 2/0 wire? Where did you get that information if I may be so bold.

[Bama Rambler]

If you go to Square D's Homeline site and look at the individual breakers, it lists the specs for the breakers, which include the wire size range.

Here's a link to the 100 amp Homeline breaker. HOM2100 miniature circuit-breaker 120/240v 100a

[2nd House]

I got back into town this evening...so much for the idea of going in through the side. The only side knockouts are at the very bottom, and do not line up with the circuits.

[5picker]

Is it illegal or against code to hole saw new holes in the proper area of the box? I've seen that done.

[2nd House]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

If you go to Square D's Homeline site and look at the individual breakers, it lists the specs for the breakers, which include the wire size range.

Here's a link to the 100 amp Homeline breaker. HOM2100 miniature circuit-breaker 120/240v 100a

Wow...that is expensive.