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Old 07-15-2016, 04:40 PM   #11
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Bad Advice

You are getting some bad advice from some here who do not understand wiring. You CANNOT bond the Neutral and ground in an electrical panel Except at the "Service Entrance". To do otherwise is to risk back feeding electricity where you do not want it if you have a short. This can be DEADLY!

If you don't know what you are doing, CALL AN ELECTRICIAN. They make their living dealing with this dangerous resource. You may not like the expense, but it is better than a lifetime of regret should someone be injured or killed.
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Old 07-15-2016, 04:48 PM   #12
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50 AMP

Get on line and look at a wiring diagram as suggested in the thread! Your house neutral and ground are tied together. RV wiring has separate frame ground also used for 12 DC ground and 120 VAC return/neutral above ground connected to outlets neutrals and converter neutral not ground. RV grounded outlets are frame ground not tied to neutral. 50 AMP service is two (2) 120 VAC supplies only thing in common is a neutral and a ground pin on the plug to ground the trailer. That's why you can see one 120 VAC drawing 15 AMPS and the other 120 VAC line at 2 AMPS on a Progressive 50 surge protector.
Home Dryer plugs aren't wired with a neutral, just two (2) 120 VAC and ground. Internally timers and motors run on one 120 VAC line and ground, that's why it is important to ground your dryer.
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:01 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=D. J. Schuler;
Home Dryer plugs aren't wired with a neutral, just two (2) 120 VAC and ground. Internally timers and motors run on one 120 VAC line and ground, that's why it is important to ground your dryer.[/QUOTE]

That used to be true. Today's modern codes REQUIRE a separate Neutral and Ground as well as the two hot wires for the Dryer, Range and Oven. This code change was made for safety purposes.

I cannot stress enough, WHY take a chance? Get an Electrician if you do not know what you are doing!
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Old 07-15-2016, 06:16 PM   #14
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Buy and read Mike Sokol's ebook "No Shock Zone". It is a WEALTH of electrical information for RVs. I bought my copy at Amazon; less than $10.

https://www.amazon.com/No~Shock~Zone...=No+Shock+Zone

Mike has a YouTube channel too.

The life and RV you save may be your own.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:56 PM   #15
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T-High, I believe the answer you are looking for is (unfortunately) no.

You spurred me into doing a bunch of research after reading this. And the info out there is very confusing. Your premise that Neutral and Ground are essentially the same is correct to a point, but ONLY in the service panel box (where your breaker is located) where they both connect to ground. But if you connect ground to Neutral in the outlet, you can't assume a short (unwanted voltage) that is trying/seeking ground will go take the path through your service panel. It may take the path back into your Neutral line back into the coach and fry something.

Next, I will clarify an assumption I'm making: I'm assuming you have three wires that are insulated in your receptacle (two hot and one neutral). If you only have two insulated, and one ground (un-insulated) wire, then it's time to run a new wire.

Now having said that, and if my assumption is correct that you have three insulated lines, you may be able to install a grounding rod near your outlet and run a new ground wire from the receptacle to make up for the missing ground wire. I would use an eight foot grounding rod you can buy at Depot/Lowes and some really heavy wire (insulated is probably better in this case, but it wouldn't have to be.

The big deal is the fact that RVs have DC and AC systems intermixed and you can't assume that Neutral and Ground are the same all the time (i.e. they aren't grounded the same because the RV uses the chassis or the batteries for ground when running disconnected/inverted).

That's my two cents and I'm NOT an electrician.

If you can, run a new four wire lead from you box to your receptacle.

If your wire is two insulated and one ground, you pretty much have no choice but to run a new wire IMHO. Or go 30A.
Good explanation and advice here, but one word of caution. If a second grounding rod is used, it MUST be bonded to the existing ground in the main breaker box. This is due to variance in resistance of the soil. Remember, not all grounds are created equal.

That being said, it is a viable option. The ground wire does not need to be in the same conduit as the two hots and neutral. As stated else where, if you are unsure, seek the help of a qualified electrician.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:04 PM   #16
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Find an electrician is best advice given. After 40 plus years of work in the field I would not try and explain how to anyone unless I was looking at it and had hands on. Get some professional help to be safe.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:05 PM   #17
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I totally agree with "Get the right INFO", old house old wiring, new house new wiring get an electrician who has/knows RV wiring (experience) too.
Also suggest Progressive Industries EMS PT50C, protects/turns off when missing/reversed ground/neutral and high/low voltage either leg and surges are detected. Three years ago watched a guy plug into neutral connected to ground on the post and no ground connection, he touched the side of his TT and knew something was wrong, thank goodness it was dry weather.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:17 PM   #18
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Find an electrician is best advice given. After 40 plus years of work in the field I would not try and explain how to anyone unless I was looking at it and had hands on. Get some professional help to be safe.
This is a Very True Statement that should be Followed!^^^ It is the same as going to a BAR and asking a Drunk Electrician "How do I wire My House"! Youroo!!
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:35 AM   #19
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Anyone doing electrical with a RV needs to read Mike Sokol's book, "No~Shock~Zone - RV Electrical Safety".

It's a great tool to have.
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menekaunee View Post
Anyone doing electrical with a RV needs to read Mike Sokol's book, "No~Shock~Zone - RV Electrical Safety".

It's a great tool to have.
I don't doubt it, and I am glad there are those here that would benefit from reading it.

But for ME? I want my electrician to read it.........
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