50 to 30 adapter + 50 amp 220 shore receptacle + 110 RV = NOT GOOD! - Page 6

Bmbrady77 · 07-22-2014, 07:35 PM

Why is it that EVERY time I hear of a story like this, that the details are always crazy? What I mean is..the whole "the owner told my friend" and "he just showed my friend which showed me" parts of this tale.

I am in NO way implying that you are at fault and I'm truly sorry this happened to you. What I am implying is that the whole thing sounds to me to be a shady situation in the first place. I was born and raised in Louisiana myself and we always have the knack of treating what should be business dealing in the same way we deal with buddies..at least until it turns sour. I guess what I'm trying to say is this...

I hope you've learned from this that if the deal is not initially done in a face to face and extremely professional matter from the start..you might be better off going on to the next thing. It sounds as though, at least from your meter skills, you have a rudimentary knowledge of electrical and the wiring of..so would it have not been a better option, if the friend you were visiting is right next door to the campground, to spend 35 bucks total and run a quick temporary plug from your friends home? There may have been other circumstances that I'm not aware of that could have prevented this so please forgive me if there are, but following my logic, you could have stayed as long as you wanted for half the price with this option, and avoided this whole deal!

jlbreaux · 07-23-2014, 12:59 PM

"What I am implying is that the whole thing sounds to me to be a shady situation in the first place." - When reservations were made over the phone 2 weeks in advance it was stated that they would be out of town and made arrangements for us as well with another neighbor for others also camping that weekend.

"I hope you've learned from this that if the deal is not initially done in a face to face and extremely professional matter from the start you might be better off going on to the next thing" - Owner said they would be out of town, owner said arrangements have been made to accommodate us as well as others. He did what I would have done, pay someone to park campers and collect money.

"the friend you were visiting is right next door to the campground, to spend 35 bucks total and run a quick temporary plug from your friends home" - Out of the question, we were 1000'+ away from our friends.

"There may have been other circumstances that I'm not aware of that could have prevented this so please forgive me if there are, but following my logic, you could have stayed as long as you wanted for half the price with this option, and avoided this whole deal!" - Only way this would have been prevented is if the owner would have checked the voltage after site was complete. I should have checked voltage but I did not, now I do, lesson learned! Another lesson learned is do not assume!

Weezer · 07-23-2014, 01:55 PM

J L Breaux (worked with a John Breaux who was a corporate pilot...'zatchew?)

Due to your nightmare we bought the Surge Guard (portable) for our 5er back when you first started this thread.

The worry these things relieve is worth EVERY penny we spent.

We were like you; "innocent babes in the woods" regarding negligent park owners and/or power fluctuations the whole 8 months we owned and camped with our brand new V-Lite.

Sharing your nightmare experience is saving a LOT of folks like us from going through the same thing.

We thank you!

To this entire forum and the fine folks who participate on it:

Sneak and I THANK YOU!

(I've not forgotten the huge amount of advice so many of you gave us when Sneak was having shore power installed here at home. Turned out the (professional) electrician Sneak hired to do it did know his stuff, but Sneak doesn't walk blindly into anything...hell he'll "research" for a month before buying a simple battery powered drill.)

jlbreaux · 07-25-2014, 03:48 PM

Negative on the pilot, I like to drink too much. If I were a pilot I would one like Foster Brooks played in the skit he had with Dean Martin.

My all time Foster Brooks skit I must say. Well I am humbled you felt my experience helped you. I have not bought a surge protector yet but you bet you ***** I check shore power twice before I hook up to it. I check it right at the plug and then I check it at the end of my adapter and or power cable. The wife went back to school for her masters so I cant spend money like I used too.

jlbreaux · 02-10-2015, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TURBS

Good for you!
Did you invest in a surge protector?

He should have paid up in the first place!

Not yet TURBS, extra money is going to books and tuition for my wife. Getting a Masters Degree is EXPENSIVE! But I do check every receptacle on the pedestal with my meter before I plug in!

cjearle2 · 02-10-2015, 02:14 PM

After reading this I will be getting a surge protector! I think If I was you I would find away to buy one so you don't have to go thru this nightmare again. Good Luck!

PMickey · 02-16-2015, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlbreaux

Don't know the exact # but 30 amp 110 gives you about 4 to 5000 watts, 50 amp 110 gives you about 10 to 12000 watts. I can pull a few more watts without faulty 30amp breakers tripping when the coffee pot and ac are on at the same time, which I am sure most have expierenced.I also have a friend that has his own private campground and all he has is 50 amp shore power. As long as it is wired for 110 all is good.

30 a 110v is 3300 watts. Ohms law states P=I x V. Where P=watts, I= current/amps, V= voltage. This means that a 50 A RV receptacle is 11,000 watts. It's 50 amps at 110v on each "hot" leg with a neutral and hopefully a working ground. When the AC unit cycles on there is a current spike to get the compressor going. Even with the startup capacitor in place and functioning it can be as much as double the running current. That's what gets me. If I have my convection oven on and the AC cycles on, pow. Out goes the lights.

Sorry. Didn't realize there were 6 pages of posts till after I posted this reply from page one.

2013 Solaire Eclipse 317BHSK 2009 Denali XL Tow Vehicle with Equalizer distribution and sway control

caper · 02-16-2015, 08:26 PM

What breaker is being tripped the one in the unit or the post? If it is the breaker in the unit could it be a weak breaker?

fast murray · 02-16-2015, 08:29 PM

Ummm, just for the sake of clarification, no one has 110 anymore. Unless there is a fair amount of voltage or drop or the power company is having a hard time keeping up with demand you'll have 120 volts. It may be 119 or 121 but that's about it. At 120 volts you'd have 3600 watts. The NEC allows circuits to be loaded to 80% for continuous duty so that would be 2880 watts. The RV probably wouldn't be considered continuous duty but as loads come on automatically it gets easy to overload.

ykdave · 02-16-2015, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PMickey

30 a 110v is 3300 watts. Ohms law states P=I x V. Where P=watts, I= current/amps, V= voltage. This means that a 50 A RV receptacle is 11,000 watts. It's 50 amps at 110v on each "hot" leg with a neutral and hopefully a working ground. When the AC unit cycles on there is a current spike to get the compressor going. Even with the startup capacitor in place and functioning it can be as much as double the running current. That's what gets me. If I have my convection oven on and the AC cycles on, pow. Out goes the lights.

2013 Solaire Eclipse 317BHSK 2009 Denali XL Tow Vehicle with Equalizer distribution and sway control

is that while running off a 30a 120v plug or a 50a 240v plug?

Major difference!

With a 30a plug you have 30a 120v feeding both hot legs of the campers distribution box. thus any spikes from the a/c startup are sure to trip the breaker if you have more than a few trinkets turned on as the entire camper is run off of that single 30amp 120v leg (3600w)

With 50a 240v you have 2 seperate 120v 50amp legs (6000w per leg for a total of 12000w combined) feeding 2 seperate 120v legs in the distribution panel. If the trailer was wired by someone with half a brain, the A/C would be on one leg, while other power hogs (ie conv oven) would be on the other so as to balance the legs and prevent things like the A/C from popping the breaker when their are other loads on the circuit

caper · 02-16-2015, 09:07 PM

Many 50 amp units have 2 AC units. In this case one of the AC units would be wired with the convection oven.

PMickey · 02-17-2015, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ykdave

is that while running off a 30a 120v plug or a 50a 240v plug?

Major difference!

With a 30a plug you have 30a 120v feeding both hot legs of the campers distribution box. thus any spikes from the a/c startup are sure to trip the breaker if you have more than a few trinkets turned on as the entire camper is run off of that single 30amp 120v leg (3600w)

With 50a 240v you have 2 seperate 120v 50amp legs (6000w per leg for a total of 12000w combined) feeding 2 seperate 120v legs in the distribution panel. If the trailer was wired by someone with half a brain, the A/C would be on one leg, while other power hogs (ie conv oven) would be on the other so as to balance the legs and prevent things like the A/C from popping the breaker when their are other loads on the circuit

My TT is 30 A single AC unit. It's wired right. I added a convection oven to the outdoor kitchen. After a couple trips with the main breaker tripping I just run a separate extension cord to the power pole for my convection oven. Most campgrounds I have been to have a 30, 50, and 20A receptacles. It just makes sense so anybody can camp anywhere.

To the post about 120V instead of 110V. I have heard both used in conversation and seen both printed on product labels. Though I know what the outlets measure. The best thing to take away from both our posts is ohms law. Then you can convert from watts to amps as many appliances are rated in watts.

2013 Solaire Eclipse 317BHSK 2009 Denali XL Tow Vehicle with Equalizer distribution and sway control

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