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Old 04-08-2015, 10:27 PM   #11
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When installing your EMS and transfer switch, it's helpful to use high strand wire, which is very flexible. I bought mine at Home Depot and used 6-4 wire for 50amp. It costs just a little more, but you don't need much, and it's worth it when trying to wire things up in tight places.
Did the same thing for wiring my 50 amp hardwired surge guard....bought I believe 4 feet of 6-4 from Home Depot.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:30 PM   #12
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I made mine with three wire. The neutral and the ground in are basically the same, do not under size the wire and connect the green or white wire to the silver screw and the green screw. Now I know someone is going to slam me for this but before you do get an expert to say it. I am a Journeyman electrician.
I'll cross Journeyman electrician off my credible sources list.
You are not only wrong but dangerous.
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jim-bob View Post
I made mine with three wire. The neutral and the ground in are basically the same, do not under size the wire and connect the green or white wire to the silver screw and the green screw. Now I know someone is going to slam me for this but before you do get an expert to say it. I am a Journeyman electrician.
Not to start any type of contest here, but jim-bob is 100% correct. Look in your house breaker box. The HOT wires RED or BLACK come off the breaker. The Neutral and Ground (White, Green and Bare) are all attached to the same grounding bar thus are basically the same. He also said "do not under size the wire" very important. Personally I would use four wires not three. Even though the neutral and ground start at the same ground bar location.
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:13 PM   #14
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Not to start any type of contest here, but jim-bob 100% correct. Look in your house breaker box. The HOT wires RED or BLACK come off the breaker. The Neutral and Ground (White, Green and Bare) are all attached to the same grounding bar thus are basically the same. He also said "do not under size the wire" very important. Personally I would use four wires not three. Even though the neutral and ground start at the same location.
Actually it is in your house! There is only one spot bonding of ground and neutral is allowed, at the service entrance. In your house

Tieing ground and neutral together at the EMS is dangerous and illegal according to the Ontario Electrical Code and the National Electrical Code.

Tieing ground and neutral together can cause hot skin if the hot/neutral are wired backwards, as some have found reported on this forum this installation is a killer.

Another note is setting up a Ground Loop and have current in the ground path between the trailer install and the service entrance. This could cause leakage current in places like hot tubs and pool pumps creating a tingle or worse more voltage, not likely 110 vac but could cause an issue for people with pacemakers or heart issues.

I would spend the 4 bucks on a piece of stove cable instead.

Source referring to NEC and Surge Suppressor Installation

http://www.smartpowersystems.com/sps...rnottobond.pdf

The Neutral to Ground Bond
Where is it NEC compliant to bond neutral and ground? The NEC prescribes two places. The first place that we find this bond is at the service entrance inside the main service panels. Why? Fault current at this point needs to come from the utility source.

Non-compliant Neutral to Ground Bonds
A non-compliantneutraltogroundbond is usually easy to spot. Open a distribution panel and look inside. All of the branch circuit neutral wires, the white wires, terminate on a common bus. All of the branch circuit ground wires, the green wires, terminate on their own bus. If these are interconnected in any way, a violation of the NEC exists.
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:19 PM   #15
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Actually it is in your house! There is only one spot bonding of ground and neutral is allowed, at the service entrance. In your house

Tieing ground and neutral together at the EMS is dangerous and illegal according to the Ontario Electrical Code and the National Electrical Code.

Tieing ground and neutral together can cause hot skin if the hot/neutral are wired backwards, as some have found reported on this forum this installation is a killer.

Another note is setting up a Ground Loop and have current in the ground path between the trailer install and the service entrance. This could cause leakage current in places like hot tubs and pool pumps creating a tingle or worse more voltage, not likely 110 vac but could cause an issue.

I would spend the 4 bucks on a piece of stove cable instead.
B and B I totally agree, as I stated I personally would use four wires.
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Old 04-09-2015, 12:56 AM   #16
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In a house type setting one is tied to the electric service ground and one is earth ground isn't it? Trailer houses and metal buildings use 4 wire service here.... I was told if the pole ground was lost it would find a new ground. I called it case ground/earth ground on the neutral ground


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Old 04-09-2015, 11:46 AM   #17
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If your surge protector is hidden then that would mean that you don't have a reverse polarity device to see. I use a surge/reverse polarity device that plugs into the shore power box. It has red and green lights that will show if the power box is safe to plug into. Red being bad and green being safe. It has saved me from electrical problems on a few locations.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:38 PM   #18
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The progressive ems has a visible remote that monitors each line voltage, amperage, and indicates a multitude of errors.


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Old 04-11-2015, 08:20 PM   #19
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I made mine with three wire. The neutral and the ground in are basically the same, do not under size the wire and connect the green or white wire to the silver screw and the green screw. Now I know someone is going to slam me for this but before you do get an expert to say it. I am a Journeyman electrician.
I have been a Master Electricain for 25+ years (scored a 100 % on the exam). I was a journeyman electrician for 4 years before that. I've been involved in the electrical trade for 38 years. I own and operate a electrical contracting company that has been in business for 59 years and employs 30+ employees. I have a BSEE from the University of Nebraska and have taught a senior design lab while taking graduate level electrical engineering classes. I don't know if that qualifies me as an "expert" but what you state is absolutely false and in violation of numerous NFPA 70 (NEC) requirements. The neutal and ground are NOT "basically the same" and it is irresponsible to give advice on a forum such as this that is so blatantly false and try to legitimize it by stating that you are "Journeyman electrician". The scenario you describe is dangerous and I would urge no one to take your advice. Connection of a 50 amp RV requires 4 wires period!
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:54 PM   #20
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I have been a Master Electricain for 25+ years (scored a 100 % on the exam). I was a journeyman electrician for 4 years before that. I've been involved in the electrical trade for 38 years. I own and operate a electrical contracting company that has been in business for 59 years and employs 30+ employees. I have a BSEE from the University of Nebraska and have taught a senior design lab while taking graduate level electrical engineering classes. I don't know if that qualifies me as an "expert" but what you state is absolutely false and in violation of numerous NFPA 70 (NEC) requirements. The neutal and ground are NOT "basically the same" and it is irresponsible to give advice on a forum such as this that is so blatantly false and try to legitimize it by stating that you are "Journeyman electrician". The scenario you describe is dangerous and I would urge no one to take your advice. Connection of a 50 amp RV requires 4 wires period!
AMEN Brother, Not having proper grounding and neutral is asking for a fire. A federal, state or local electrical inspector would not pass "three wire" hook up anywhere as it does not meet NFPA / NEC codes. More fires start from under sized and poor neutrals than any thing else.
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