50amp Toy Hauler to a portable generator?

[gilwilliams101]

My generator has 3 different outlets.

#1 is a 4 pin 30amp / 240v

#2 is the usual 20amp / 120v

#3 is also the usual 20amp / 120v

The toy hauler is a 2016 Puma Unleashed 351THSS 50amp service with a pair of Champion 15k A/C units up top.

I understand that the trailer is a 120v system that simply has a pair of 120s going in and then splitting off.

I'm trying to find a adaptor to go from the generator to the 50amp RV cord and be able to run both A/C units.

Is there a such thing?

ps-it's a RIGID 7125 / 5700 generator powered by a Yamaha 300.

[B and B]

Use number 1. He gfci on the two 120 volt will cause issues. You Need a custom cable 4 pin twist lock to a 50 amp receptacle. An electrician needs to confirm your generator has a neutral on the 240 receptacle first.

[gilwilliams101]

Originally Posted by B and B

Use number 1. You Need a custom cable 4 pin twist lock to a 50 amp receptacle. An electrician needs to confirm your generator has a neutral on the 240 receptacle first.

Can I remove the panel and be sure there is a white wire attached at bottom leg of the 30amp / 240v outlet to ensure that is a 'wired' neutral? I've read enough to figure out that the volt meter needs to read 240v between left and right leg, 120v between left and bottom and left and top leg and also 120v between right leg and bottom and top leg.


If I understand it right, when all said and done I need 120 on left, 120 on right, neutral on bottom and ground on top?

[TakeItEasy]

Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Genera.../dp/B003PY5BVG

[Mars]

Proceed with caution! There is more to it than just the right plug. Your gen was not designed to push 40-50 amps thru one receptacle. The original wiring and the breakers may not be able to handle the load. You also have to be sure of the neutrals and phasing with adapters. If it were me I would look at removing the twist lock and replacing it with the proper 50 amp plug or a 30 amp and limit use to one AC unit.

[youroo]

IF it is Rewired/Repluged to accept the 50A RV plug I would doubt that it has the Output for 2 AC's and I Know it will be LOUD! Youroo!!

[B and B]

Replacing and rewriting the generator is harder than making an adapter. You can use a voltmeter to check for neutral if so inclined. The rating says 25 amps at 240. That should be enough for 2 AC's but no hot water heater.

[Happy Vibe]

You need to do the math on the output power. The 30 amps out is the peak not running. 30 X 240 = 7200 watts. 5700/240 = 23.75 amps. Split that between two legs and you only have 11.9amps. So you will have a hard time running two AC's with that generator. And as was said bring your ear plugs because that generator will be loud.

[larryandamy]

You can buy these adapters for $20 on Amazon
See attached screen shot.
But you have a potential of a 50 amp load with a 5700W generator which is max running current of 23.75 amps at 240VAC.
You don't split the current between two legs. It doesn't work that way.
It is max of 23.75 amps on each leg of the 240VAC (L1 and L2) from your generator.
And you don't have to worry about the wire and breakers on your trailer as your generator cannot supply more that 23.75 amps and your trailer is wired for 50 amps.
There is also no phasing to worry about either as this is single phase and if you buy a pre-made adapter they are all wired to industry standard pin assignments.
115VAC can be taken between L1 and Neutral (Common) or L2 and neutral but usually always taken from just L1 and neutral in the trailer wiring.
The 4 terminals on each connector are:
L1, L2, Neutral and Ground.
You have:
- 240VAC between L1 and L2.
- 115VAC between L1 and Neutral
- 115VAC between L2 and Neutral
You do not need an electrician to check if there is a Neutral.
There has to be a Neutral and a Ground... That is code.
Ground is same electrical connection as Neutral, but is used for safety current path to ground.

I am sure that your AC units are 240VAC (not 115VAC) and both of them running could draw over 23.75 amps on L1 and L2 only. It would be close and it would be loud... meaning generators get louder the more they are loaded.
If you tried to run anything else on 115VAC at the same time the currents are additive on the L1 leg and if you exceed 23.75 amps on L1, then your generator will just overload and trip the breaker. No risk to wiring or connectors/breakers on your trailer, because they can handler more current then your generator can deliver.

[Happy Vibe]

You are right about the current, half the voltage full current on each leg my mistake. I have never heard of a 240V AC unit on a trailer ( does not mean they don't exist but normally they are 120V). In a 50 amp trailer the two lines L1 and L2 are wired as two circuits with a common neutral. One AC will be wired to L1 and the other to L2. The neutral and ground are not always tide together on a generator.

[larryandamy]

Sounds like you know a lot more about trailers than I do.
I know electrical from 40 years doing electrical engineering, but I am learning the ropes on how they wire trailers.
Thanks

240VAC would be more efficient but it makes sense to make the AC units 115VAC since not all hookups (at private houses...) provide 240VAC and they would not be usable.

But the 50 amp female to 30 amp male adapters on Amazon should work fine as long as they tie one AC unit to L1/Neutral and the other to L2/Neutral and they would have to do it that way to balance the load.

It may run OK with 5700W generator, but there is no margin for extra loads... especially toaster or microwave...

A 7500W generator would be better sized.

[gilwilliams101]

THANK YOU ALL for all the info!!!


I 'assumed' the generator would be plenty to run the entire trailer with no problem, but I have now learned the error of my ways. LOL


The end A/C is over the garage and there is rarely a need to have both units on at the same time and when using the generator, I will simply be aware of the AMP draw on the gen. and only run 1 A/C unit at a time. As for hot water heater, I can use propane only when using the generator. As long as the fridge is on and 1 A/C unit at a time can be used, I am golden!!!


Again, THANK YOU all for the education and help!!! This is one of the greatest forums out there because of the quality people on this forum!!!


ps-looking at a wiring schematic, the frt A/C is 115v off of L1 and rear A/C is 115v off of L2. And going by the breaker panel in the trailer, that makes sense.

[Flybob]

The generator is a construction generator ( not an inverter generator). You will probably not be allowed to use it in most campgrounds due to noise. Also it may cause problems with some electronics ( tv computer). Not trying to burst you bubble, but just trying to avoid surprises.

[gilwilliams101]

Originally Posted by Flybob

The generator is a construction generator ( not an inverter generator). You will probably not be allowed to use it in most campgrounds due to noise. Also it may cause problems with some electronics ( tv computer). Not trying to burst you bubble, but just trying to avoid surprises.

This will be primarily on our farm while our new house is being built and until the new 50amp box gets installed on temp pole. Nearest neighbor is a 1/2 mile away so noise shouldn't be an issue.