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Old 07-27-2015, 02:21 PM   #1
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AC and 110V kicks out but breakers don't trip.

When the AC is on and nothing else the 110V will kick out but the 20A AC and the 30A Main breakers do not physically trip. If I DON'T flip the breakers back off and on again the 110 will come back on its own after a few minutes. I have the water heater and refrig on gas and there is power to the to the shore power post.

Can breakers overheat then reset themselves? Is the inverter overheating then resetting? Do breakers get touchier the more often they are tripped? Any ideas?
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Old 08-01-2015, 11:09 AM   #2
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I am having the same issue with a 2016 Georgetown,
I can't get my dealer to return my call....
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Old 08-01-2015, 06:27 PM   #3
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I still don't understand it but...I made sure the water heater was on propane only and the refrig was Not on Auto but on gas and the AC ran fine all night. I just have to remember to switch both the WH and Refrig back to electric when the campground is providing electric.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:06 PM   #4
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Most likely drawing too many amps with a/c on. I put water heater on gas but still need to turn off a/c while using microwave. All rv;s have this dilemma.

I have a Progressive Industries Surge Protector(everybody should have one) and it shows Im at all most 30A with a/c and water heater on elec so I know something will give if I turned on the microwave.
Almost sounds like there is a bad connection and as it heats up (due to poor contact) it will loose contact - then cool and reconnect.

Could cause a fire and this should be corrected A.S.A.P.

From RV forum.net
Quote:
When you have a loose connection it reduces the voltage. The appliance is trying to pull the watts it needs so more amps are demanded to make up for the reduced voltage. See watts law. Watts = Amps times Volts.

That is why the wiring and the plug is heating up...the circuit was pulling more amps than it should have. This can happen before the breaker trips or if the breaker is defective....amount of current varies. A good breaker should help prevent you personally from receiving a deadly shock. The circuit breaker system is designed so that when you try to pull too much current through a particular circuit, the breaker shuts off and stops the flow of electricity through it before a potentially hazardous situation develops. In the world of circuit breakers, this is what’s meant by “tripping”. By doing this, the circuit breaker protects the circuit and its wiring from overheating and causing damage or starting a fire.

Three of the reasons for electrical overheating that leads to electrical fires are excessive current, poor connections, and insulation breakdown. Excessive current is rare, because circuit breakers and fuses (if sized correctly) typically protect against this occurrence.
Poor connections can be very efficient at overheating, because they can generate a high wattage over a small area for a long period of time without tripping the breakers. (again...high wattage) If the watt density is high enough, the connection will glow. An oxide actually forms at the (loose) contact area, and the resistance of the oxide causes the I2R power dissipation. I = amps, R = resistance. A GFCI or AFCI may sense a poor connection after some electrical insulation becomes conductive and leakage current occurs (5 mA or 30 mA, respectively). If a breaker isn't tripping, yet still feels quite warm, you probably are close to having too many appliances on its circuit. Breakers trip because of overloads (too many appliances), or shorts ( bare wires touching each other).

Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

This would be a good time to go look at your white wires in your electrical cabinets to see if any are turning from white to tan to brown (be sure it isn't dirt you are looking at). You may have more wiring problems now or on the way.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:07 PM   #5
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rexmerritt, I just remembered! One time when the AC went out I was checking out the breaker panel under the bed. All breakers were OK and all fuses were OK. (The WH and Refrig were on electric).Then I heard the power inverter come on on its own. It is in the basement compartment under the bed accessible from outside only. Mine is a WFCO inverter and it has overload protection according to the specs on WFCO inverters on Amazon. I assume all inverters has some kind of overload protection.Could be that the inverter cuts out under overload then cuts back in when it cools down or the load is lessened. I seem to recall a red reset button on the inverter. I will check it out tomorrow.

As bluewoo indicated in his post and amperage draw charts on this forum indicate, the WH on electric and the refrigerator on electric could cause an overload when the AC comes on. Adding the micro make that a definite. Again, a bluewoo wrote, I am not able to run my AC and microwave at the same time.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:33 PM   #6
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Lex, do you know what model it is? All I can find is this.

WF-5110HP | wfcoelectronics.com
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:27 AM   #7
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This is mine.

It is a WFCO 9855. It is an exact replacement for what was in there when bought my 2009 Lexington 300SS in 2013.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:43 AM   #8
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Im wondering if you already have a inline a/c protection?? Like a Progressive Industries - just a thought.
Maybe look where you land line comes in.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:47 PM   #9
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X2 on the line protection...low voltage causing cutout. get adequate voltage..Rv cord or closer to source..
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:09 PM   #10
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A/C inop on Forrest River

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Originally Posted by Lex3000 View Post
When the AC is on and nothing else the 110V will kick out but the 20A AC and the 30A Main breakers do not physically trip. If I DON'T flip the breakers back off and on again the 110 will come back on its own after a few minutes. I have the water heater and refrig on gas and there is power to the to the shore power post.

Can breakers overheat then reset themselves? Is the inverter overheating then resetting? Do breakers get touchier the more often they are tripped? Any ideas?
I came in form work and my A/C was out I checked all the breakers and none were tripped I did find one 20 amp fuse blown.I replaced still no A/C not even the fan or blower runs on A/C or Heat.Any help ? I have a 2007 Forrest River Sandpiper and never had any problems until now.I made my last payment in July,that's the way it goes.I put in a window unit and it does well enough,but not like the OEM unit.I couldn't how to put this on a new thread it is confusing.I need help in both area's.Thanks Paul ( Newbie)
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:15 PM   #11
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Any help out there in the camper world on getting my 2007 Forrest Rive Sandpiper A/C back on ? It sucks being in the deep South and no A/C,everything else works fine and it was until 2 weeks ago when I came in and it was out.Nothing coming out the vents only the roof unit buzzing.I checked the breakers all good one 20 amp fuse the 3rd one in the line blown.I replaced it and still nothing.Any suggestions I mad my last payment in July and now this.Thanks Paul (Newbie)
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:34 PM   #12
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A/C inop on Forrest River

I finally figured the thread reply out.I have a 2007 Forrest River Sandpiper with no A/C it just quit after I made my last payment.Happens that way ! Checking out all the breakers & fuse I found one 20 amp fuse blown replaced it and still no A/C.Right now I am running on a window unit I bought and installed it is a 110 running off the trailer,I have RV power.I ran it off that at first and tried my trailer A/C thinking it was over loading.Nope ! Still no trailer A/C,I cut everything off in the trailer still nothing. Any suggestions ? One more question is the box,surface mounted.that has all the grey water,black water,battery,and the 2 switches at the bottom red flip switches if I am on RV power do they need to be on or off ? The refridge is on Auto,I am permitt party at this RV site I run on as much RV power as possible cause it is included in my lot rental. Thanks Paul (Newbie)
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:47 PM   #13
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make sure you got the water heater breaker off. if you just got a buzz on the roof, you probably lost the fan...
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