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Old 06-13-2013, 08:20 PM   #11
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Here's the deal... as per the NEC & CEC

If your pipe is emt with steel boxes there is no issue with bonding the outlet to the box, the proper size of wire would be #12 for this.

The only code you will be breaking is identifying your neutral white with tape.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:39 PM   #12
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Assuming when you say the house is wired in conduit, you are talking about EMT, NEC article 358.60 says EMT shall be permitted as an equipment grounding conductor. If you want to pull a grounding conductor in, Table 250.122 says the minimum size of copper conductor permitted on a 30 amp overcurrent device is #10. As far as using one of the black wires as a neutral, Article 200.3(A) says that conductors size 6 and smaller shall be identified with a continuous while or gray outer finish or by 3 continuous white stripes on other than green insulation along its entire length.

If it were me, depending on the length of the circuit, I'd pull in a #10 green grounding conductor just to be on the safe side and while I was at it I'd replace one of the black hots with a white and get rid of the #14. If it's #8 wiring now you, you can replace it with #10 wiring which is good for 30 amps.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:53 PM   #13
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Unless you are going to run the AC or the electric WH why do you need 30 amps?
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:08 PM   #14
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If there's a conduit running there and all you need to do is pull in the wire, why not? I've replaced several receptacles and cord ends after they fail trying to carry loads that the owner never planned on using but "figured it should work." We usually do that while we're out putting in a dedicated circuit with the proper recep.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:40 PM   #15
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I understand the logic here. I hate to have to buy 75 feet of black, white, and green 10 gauge wire and waste the wire already in the conduit. The other concern that I have is pulling that much wire over that distance. There are already some 14 gauge wires in some of the conduits. I will need to check and see what pull boxes are along the route.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lswartz View Post
Unless you are going to run the AC or the electric WH why do you need 30 amps?
I figure if I am going to do this I want to be able to run whatever I want in the trailer.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:50 PM   #17
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I understand the logic here. I hate to have to buy 75 feet of black, white, and green 10 gauge wire and waste the wire already in the conduit. The other concern that I have is pulling that much wire over that distance. There are already some 14 gauge wires in some of the conduits. I will need to check and see what pull boxes are along the route.
How bout just installing a new fashioned plastic conduit with the three leads? Less chance of damaging or overheating the conductors in the original runs.....just suggestin..
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:49 AM   #18
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How bout just installing a new fashioned plastic conduit with the three leads? Less chance of damaging or overheating the conductors in the original runs.....just suggestin..
Not allowed by code where I live.

I understand the concern with conduit as ground but stepping back and looking at this, the RV outlet that I will only be using several times a year mostly for my personal comfort while loading and unloading the trailer would have a ground wire to be fail-safe but, every other outlet in my house which I use every day are grounded through the conduit.

If this is a real issue, I am focusing my attention in the wrong place.
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