Adding a Battery Monitor, which one?

[Murbella7]

Originally Posted by Wprather

I'm thinking of the Victron 712 but would love feedback on this one as well as any others I should consider. I have a 2018 Rockwood Roo 233S, no solar at the moment but want to add in the future. Mostly want to use the monitor to better manage AH usage, charging, etc., while boondocking. But would like to get a monitor that will be future proof.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

I bought a really cheap one on eBay, about $20 I think. Works well, tells me everything I need to know.

[mlmay12]

Originally Posted by DES-1

Love your weboost install. I’ve had one in our Suburban for a few years. We get 20 megabit or more downloads where others have no cell service. I plan to put one in our trailer with a 30’ telescopic pole to get the antenna as high as practical. Our phone hotspot will give us connectivity to all our gadgets.

Yep, it works great as long as you have a little bit of cell signal.

[Wprather]

I had the Victron 712 installed. I tried reading the manual to determine initial settings but not obvious. I went to the website I saw on one of the Youtube video's about it to get initial settings for the battery. BUT, the info I got seems wrong to me. It said to set the "charged voltage" setting to 14.something" (I can't remember the something now) "or .4 less than the batteries absorption rate". Well I don't know the absorption rate so I set it to the 14.something. Well that doesn't seem to be working out well.

Shouldn't the "Charged Voltage" be set to something like 12.7 for lead acid batteries, which is what I have?

If anyone knows ALL of the initial settings for a Victron 712 for a pair of 85ah lead acid batteries, I would appreciate having them?

Thanks in advance!

[MendocinoExplorer]

Bought the Victron 712. Where is the best place to mount the shunt?

There is another post on the forum that mentions installing the shunt, on the chassis ground, right next to the on board charger (instead of right next to the batteries). This would make the placement of the monitor/readout Much Easier, BUT are there any accuracy, performance, or safety issues if it is installed this way?

There is a ‘junction box’ installed on the rear side of the front frame crossmember, which houses other wiring connections. Would this area be a good second choice (if being adjacent to the batteries is critical)? The Victron manual doesn’t mention any requirement to be weatherproof.



Also, anyone know what the function/purpose of the coiled up and unconnected wires are in the attached photo? This is on a 2017 F.R. Sonoma (Evo) 220RBS.

Thanks in advance,

Rennie

[ScottBrownstein]

MendocinoExplorer That coiled wire set is for DC load (or source) that obviously you don't have. Goes through a breaker and apparently up to the panel.

Shunt has to be installed in the main negative lead that usually goes to the chassis ground. There should be a single, large lead on a battery negative that is bolted to the chassis relatively close to the batteries. You can mount the shunt on the chassis itself and make a new negative lead from the post to the shunt and then the existing lead to the chassis. I have seen a really creative bus bar that was made from a piece of 3/4" copper pipe hammered flat that is, at once, both the electrical and physical mounting for the shunt...all in one.

Unfortunately, I saw it after I had already bolted my shunt to the chassis and made a new negative lead.

[MendocinoExplorer]

Very cool shunt mount!

Thanks for the info. Tomorrow is wiring up day.

p. s. Can I hook up suitcase-type solar panels ( with proper controller ) to the un-attached leads?

Thanks again

Rennie

[aeblank]

I doubt the area of a flattened pipe is sufficient for the current. Compared to the area of my 3/0 cable, for instance.... It's going to be a voltage drop at any real current, but it's at least short.

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by aeblank

I doubt the area of a flattened pipe is sufficient for the current. Compared to the area of my 3/0 cable, for instance.... It's going to be a voltage drop at any real current, but it's at least short.

This is my Victron shunt on the negative 4/0 cable:

Battery shutoff switch & red BUSBAR on the positive 4/0 cable:

[Bama Rambler]

Looks like this got buried in MendocinoExplorer's takeover of your thread.

Originally Posted by Wprather

If anyone knows ALL of the initial settings for a Victron 712 for a pair of 85ah lead acid batteries, I would appreciate having them?

I don't have what you're looking for, but maybe this will help.
I don't know which batteries you have, but according to what I found, lead acid batteries have the following;
Bulk Charge = 14.86 V (Absorption Rate)
Float Charge = 13.35 V
Equalize Charge = 15.8 V

Maybe someone with a 712 can provide you with step by step programming for it.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Wprather

I had the Victron 712 installed. I tried reading the manual to determine initial settings but not obvious. I went to the website I saw on one of the Youtube video's about it to get initial settings for the battery. BUT, the info I got seems wrong to me. It said to set the "charged voltage" setting to 14.something" (I can't remember the something now) "or .4 less than the batteries absorption rate". Well I don't know the absorption rate so I set it to the 14.something. Well that doesn't seem to be working out well.

Shouldn't the "Charged Voltage" be set to something like 12.7 for lead acid batteries, which is what I have?

If anyone knows ALL of the initial settings for a Victron 712 for a pair of 85ah lead acid batteries, I would appreciate having them?

Thanks in advance!

It should be 14 something assuming what you use to charge your batteries gets up that high. A WFCO charger may not. That value is used to sync the monitor to indicate 100% charged and it resets AH used to 0.

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by Wprather

I had the Victron 712 installed. I tried reading the manual to determine initial settings but not obvious. I went to the website I saw on one of the Youtube video's about it to get initial settings for the battery. BUT, the info I got seems wrong to me. It said to set the "charged voltage" setting to 14.something" (I can't remember the something now) "or .4 less than the batteries absorption rate". Well I don't know the absorption rate so I set it to the 14.something. Well that doesn't seem to be working out well.

Shouldn't the "Charged Voltage" be set to something like 12.7 for lead acid batteries, which is what I have?

If anyone knows ALL of the initial settings for a Victron 712 for a pair of 85ah lead acid batteries, I would appreciate having them?

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Looks like this got buried in MendocinoExplorer's takeover of your thread.



I don't have what you're looking for, but maybe this will help.
I don't know which batteries you have, but according to what I found, lead acid batteries have the following;
Bulk Charge = 14.86 V (Absorption Rate)
Float Charge = 13.35 V
Equalize Charge = 15.8 V

Maybe someone with a 712 can provide you with step by step programming for it.

From AM Solar website: Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor Kit


Bluetooth Programming Flooded PDF• Charged Voltage: 14.2
Bluetooth Programming AGM PDF • Charged Voltage: 14.1

I have Battle Born LiFePO4 and I received BMV-712 settings from Battle Born.

[Wprather]

Originally Posted by rk06382

From AM Solar website: Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor Kit


Bluetooth Programming Flooded PDF• Charged Voltage: 14.2
Bluetooth Programming AGM PDF • Charged Voltage: 14.1

I have Battle Born LiFePO4 and I received BMV-712 settings from Battle Born.

Thanks! This info worked great and it all seems to be working now! Appreciate it!

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by Wprather

Thanks! This info worked great and it all seems to be working now! Appreciate it!

Your welcome.

That is what this forum is for. I received a lot help here and I am always glad to return some.

Thanks for the update, I am sure you will love your Victron BMV-712.

[Deanm]

Hello all,
Total newb here, just picked up our Stryker 2613, looking to install the Victron monitor, ( planning on upgrading batteries/ electrical once I get some data on our usages / etc and I too , love bluetooth techy data stuff ! ).
Would a good shunt placement be inside a junction box somewhere close to the battery? Would that protect the shunt from the weather sufficiently? Seems the easiest in that all I'd have to do is purchase a short 2 guage connector wire and put it between the shunt and battery and move the negative battery connection/and that white wire currently on the battery over to the shunt? Thanks for any help / suggestions.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Deanm

Hello all,
Total newb here, just picked up our Stryker 2613, looking to install the Victron monitor, ( planning on upgrading batteries/ electrical once I get some data on our usages / etc and I too , love bluetooth techy data stuff ! ).
Would a good shunt placement be inside a junction box somewhere close to the battery? Would that protect the shunt from the weather sufficiently? Seems the easiest in that all I'd have to do is purchase a short 2 guage connector wire and put it between the shunt and battery and move the negative battery connection/and that white wire currently on the battery over to the shunt? Thanks for any help / suggestions.

Yep, that will do it! Junction box, drill through shunt attachment points into box and into frame. Could tap the holes if you are up to that. Move leads as you indicated...all set!!! Shunt will not really get very warm, so don't worry about additional ventilation.

[Deanm]

Thanks for that reply , Scott !
What size / gauge wire is required for the shunt to battery connection? The current battery wire is 2gauge I think.
Can I use diff ?

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Deanm

Thanks for that reply , Scott !
What size / gauge wire is required for the shunt to battery connection? The current battery wire is 2gauge I think.
Can I use diff ?

Well, ideally it would be the same wire size, but you are going to have a hard time finding a short #2 cable. I made my by going to a NAPA store and buying the cable and soldering the lugs onto it. Most pre-made cables are #4 or #6, you could use that as long as it is as short as possible, like less than 12". The longer it is the more loss.

Actually, you can just cut the existing cable where it gets near the chassis and put a couple of new lugs on it. You can get #2 lugs at NAPA.

[Paulie1138]

He could possibly bolt it directly to the battery terminal clamp with short copper bar. Then connect battery cable to that. Not knowing how his battery box is, should be weather resistant enough. Add tubing sleeve over shunt for further weathering, or shrink wrap.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Deanm

Thanks for that reply , Scott !
What size / gauge wire is required for the shunt to battery connection? The current battery wire is 2gauge I think.
Can I use diff ?

You use the gauge based on the amount of current you draw and length of the cable.



Don't solder ends on cables. Crimp only.


You can buy premade cables on this site if you want:
https://ems.bayweb.com/


You specify the parts and they make the cable.

[Deanm]

Paulie, thnx for that great suggestion, for now I have the factory box with dealer provided battery, plan on upgrading when I decide what my needs are.


Lowes trip and managed to mount shunt / box. An electrician at my work is going to make me a negative bat cable in the same gauge at the length I need.

I realized I still need the proper rubber/plastic "rings" that line the punchout hole that the wires will go through. What are those thingys called??!!
SHould I be worried about water getting / filling that box?

thnx again for the help everyone !