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Old 06-28-2015, 03:49 PM   #11
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My previous rv's had them mounted from the factory on top of air condition shroud had two like that


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Old 06-28-2015, 06:08 PM   #12
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Boso, I am glad you mentioned that!

I have been entertaining a 100W panel on my Salem TT without drilling any holes on the the roof. My plan is to mount the panel on top of the AC cover and get the cables down through the refrigerator vent. From the back of the fridge it will be fairly simple to route the wires to the controller. Now I am trying to figure out how to route the cables from the panel to the fridge vent (about 3 1/2 ft) using some kind of heavy duty tape that will stick to the rubber roof and survive the Florida sun. Ideas anyone?
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:46 PM   #13
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Be VERY careful using 3M 5200! That stuff is forever!
X2. But if you 'want' permanent that'll certainly do the trick.

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...using some kind of heavy duty tape that will stick to the rubber roof and survive the Florida sun. Ideas anyone?
Eternabond'll do ya. Quick and easy to work with, but you could just dicor a few spots to tack them down if that's what you have handy. I wouldn't go the full length of the wires and you'll want to keep the wires under tension while the dicor sets. Eternabond it's just pull and stick.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:53 PM   #14
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DAF44 you could put some dicor over the wires would level out and the wires won't go anywhere I live in southern nc gets pretty hot here as well I think the av shroud is the best place if it will work for you I think that's how most manufactures do it


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Old 06-28-2015, 09:59 PM   #15
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Thin flexible panel

I couldn't stand to punch a hole in a good roof, so I bought a flexible thin film 100 watt panel and glued it on with silicone. It is solid, and pretty much permanent.
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Old 06-29-2015, 05:39 AM   #16
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Boso, I am glad you mentioned that!

I have been entertaining a 100W panel on my Salem TT without drilling any holes on the the roof. My plan is to mount the panel on top of the AC cover and get the cables down through the refrigerator vent. From the back of the fridge it will be fairly simple to route the wires to the controller. Now I am trying to figure out how to route the cables from the panel to the fridge vent (about 3 1/2 ft) using some kind of heavy duty tape that will stick to the rubber roof and survive the Florida sun. Ideas anyone?
Lots of Dicor. Use uv safe wires and I ran direct to the frg vent, cold side away from heat/flame tube and glued them to the food w Dicor.
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:22 PM   #17
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I have installed solar panels on my Georgetown roof, which is made of thin fiberglass over plywood. The 3M VHB adhesive would probably work well on a thick fiberglass roof, such as the type used on a van camper raised roof, but I would be very hesitant to use it on the thin fiberglass roof sheet used on our motorhomes which is not bonded to the plywood underneath.

My install is the same as what JLeising suggested earlier: I used 4 sets of "Z" brackets per panel, with #10 stainless steel screws because they have a large "bite" to secure into the plywood underneath the fiberglass. Before installing the screws and brackets, put a gob of Dicor over each drilled screw hole. After all the brackets are secured to the roof, cover them with additional Dicor.

You want to use #10 UL listed sunlight resistant photovoltaic wire for the panels to a roof junction box. From the roof down to the controller and then to the batteries use #4 or #6 cable to minimize voltage drop. Because the heavier gauge cable is typically not available as sunlight resistant, I installed it in conduit on the roof. Install the solar controller as close as possible, but never in the same compartment as the batteries.

Select a roof location where the panels will not be shaded by any vents, air conditioners, TV antenna, etc. Because most solar panels are made of individual cells wired in series, if just one cell get shaded it can shut down the entire panel. It's just like those old Christmas lights, where if one bulb burned out, the whole string stopped working. It is also a good idea to plan the roof install and select a solar charge controller to allow for additional panels in the future.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:21 PM   #18
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Boso, I am glad you mentioned that!

I have been entertaining a 100W panel on my Salem TT without drilling any holes on the the roof. My plan is to mount the panel on top of the AC cover and get the cables down through the refrigerator vent. From the back of the fridge it will be fairly simple to route the wires to the controller. Now I am trying to figure out how to route the cables from the panel to the fridge vent (about 3 1/2 ft) using some kind of heavy duty tape that will stick to the rubber roof and survive the Florida sun. Ideas anyone?
I think the factory mounts on the ac schroud have to be smallish panels to just trickle charge the batteries. Even just one 100 watt, and I strongly suggest two, would catch enough wind to rip the ac off the roof. Don't be afraid to put screws in the roof. Do it with big fat stainless screws like others suggest and lots of Dicor.
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:47 PM   #19
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I think you are right about the trickle charge but the rv's I had with them also had 2000 watt inverter trickle was all that I ever needed if I needed at all dry camp for a week watch tv or play radio all I wanted only run generator for air at races


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Old 09-07-2016, 12:22 AM   #20
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I have a 2015 2300 sunseeker. I put two 115w panels on top. I would suggest using Wallnuts (rubber doodads with screws). I used 2" x1/8 x 36 aluminum angle. Put silicone (for aluminum) under the angle, particularly around holes. Used plastic conduit for looks and protection. Ran wire down fridge space. Had to drill one hole to get into the cabin. Mounted controller on cabinet by entry door. Less convenient for monitoring perhaps but minimized work. Worked for me.
Hello Gerry, You mentioned you have used aluminum angles... Did you attach them together in a "Z" shape with one attached to the roof, the other attached to the panel and bolted together? [I have been investigating this option for the past couple weeks given that it provides the capability to unmount the panel for service/replacement -- yes the angle attached to the roof will stay there but that's minor]

Also, did you put one 36'' length on each side of the panel (obviously on the length)? Which panels you have, the 100W renogy?

Thanks!!
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