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Old 04-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #11
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Thanks Herk and Bikendan !

I was not trying to be cranky, just that when you do not have full internetaccess it is tough to read every post and and I was asking for help, heck, screaming for it. Paying for every byte is tough.

So that 210 RC battery will be good for 87 hours of one amp consumption, or 44 hours of 2 amp, and 11 hours of 4 amp right ? Did I understand it right ?

I realized how gone my battery is when I lost power at this CG and the lights were almost non existent with just the battery.

Meijers has a group 31 (supposedly, with cold cranking amps but called marine rv, so a dual purpose) or anything cheaper same specs Costco has, better price and if I grab it I will be just fine. All I will do is I will make sure it fits in my battery box. Right ?

I never camp without power so all I need is a night where CG power is gone, and I have "some" battery power and I do not freeze to death in 20F DEGREES And yes I keep my propane bottles full.

Thanks to all the people who try to help each other. I am aware that we are all volunteers and we do our best to help those who need help in certain areas ! Their dedication and help definitely do not go unappreciated ! Now if I could only get you folks to financially help with purchasing a new battery too HAHHAHAH it was my total stupidity to leave it connected over a winter .... What was I thinking I now have a battery tender and I have since taken the almost dead battery always home and plugged in but it is too late to recover it obviously.

Thanks folks !
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:15 AM   #12
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Goomph,

The short answer to your "how long will it last" is yes.
The long answer is, of course, more complicated.

1) The "capacity" is rated new with zero cycles on the battery. As the cycles (charge-discharge) pile up capacity is reduced.

2) The AH of the rating is based on the ability of the batteries design to "give up" electrons at a given load for a period of time.

The thicker plates of a house battery are not very good at "giving up electrons" quickly but can do it over a long period of time. Thinner plates of starting batteries "give up electrons" easily and quickly but as a result don't have much staying power.

Think of a thin wipe with a lot of surface area. Squeeze it and water will gush out. Then picture a thick hard sponge and it will take a lot more effort to get the water deep inside the sponge to the surface.

Amp-Hour Ratings: Information from Answers.com

3) When you try to SUCK that water out at a rate higher than the water can get to the surface of the sponge, you run out of water till some can work its way out. Same with a battery. The more current you demand from a house battery, the LESS able it is to deliver its full rated load. See the attached graph.

If you pull LESS current than the rating, the battery will last longer than rated.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:38 AM   #13
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Thanks Lou ! I get it now

I think I will try to find that battery which had CCA amps of 600 and no cranking amps specified and a reserve of capacity of 210 amps. It was definitely (much) heavier than my current battery so I am hoping it will be the right choice. It was in the marine/RV batteries area so it might just be a good hybrid. It was also bigger and heavier than the two existing marine/rv batteries. I hope I can find my meter and can measure my battery box to see it if will fit.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:28 AM   #14
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CCA is "cold cranking amps"
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:29 PM   #15
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If the battery has CCA prominently displayed on the case; it is most likely NOT the battery you want.

While the bigger the CCA number is good for a truck battery, (it can deliver a LOT of electrons quickly to start a reluctant engine) it doe not tell you how long it will power your camper off the grid. In this case bigger is NOT necessarily better. Lots of thin waffled plates is a lot of weigh with "no guts."

RC is used to let you know how long your battery will power your truck's engine and accessories if the alternator or belt fails. This is a BETTER measure of how the battery will last in an RV environment because it is a measure of capacity. Batteries with high RC are not only "waffled" for more surface area; but thicker so there is more staying power.

Dual Use batteries typically "tout" both numbers.

Dedicated house batteries just have Amp Hours on the battery. They have thicker flat plates (more lead holds more electrons). Thick flat plates means more capacity BUT the limited surface area means that taking them out (and putting them back IN) is limited to the surface area in contact with the electrolyte. It takes longer to discharge one AND longer to charge one; since the electrons must "push the ones in front of them" deeper into the lead.

Battery physics way more complex than this. I am trying to explain the differences between battery types as best I can.

From the attached graph you can see that the deeper you discharge a battery before recharging it, the LESS number of times you can do it before the battery is ruined. That is why most people never let their battery decay below 12 volts before recharging it.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:08 PM   #16
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I spent the morning hunting batteries And thanks, now I( get it. it was NOT touting the CCC at all, it was displayed next to the reserve capacity. I also found the exact same battery I have , and interstate, and it also has the CCC and the MCC and reserve capacity (160). next to it they have a group 29 interstate, another marine/rv deep cycle, with a reserve capacity of 210 amps (149 bucks) . Checked Autozone and they had a group 29 with a reserve capacity of 210 amps for 122 bucks.

The autozone one is Autocraft brands of course, and is labeled as a Deep cycle and the marine/RV pro .... I am tempted to grab it save me 30 bucks ... it should better than what I had. of course if auto zone gets these done on the cheap side I will not be saving money. is their brand reliable ?
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:23 PM   #17
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Any AH capacity above 70 will work for you.
(Any RC above 168 minutes)
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Any AH capacity above 70 will work for you.
(Any RC above 168 minutes)

Thank you !!!

I love this forum !
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:38 PM   #19
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And since I am visiting the Surveyor factory to pick up my new furnace tomorrow, I will see if I can snap up some led bulbs for the interior of the trailer That WILL definitely help !
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #20
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Grabbed a group 29 duralast for 95 bucks, with a RC capacity of 210.

Thanks for all the help folks. Lost power for a short while and the interior lights were pretty close to how they were with the power on !

They also had Optima ones for over 200 dollars. Do they fit into the regular battery boxes ?
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