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Old 04-14-2016, 01:21 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
There is a desulfurization mode on my battery charger that I might try as a last resort, once I get in place on our trip... It sounds like it "might" repair the mode it's been sitting in, but I defer to your expertise
Regarding desulfurization mode read this; Answer To The Question: Battery Desulfators - Do They Work? - Blog | Impact Battery Blog credit for this well written article came from another forum member. Desulfators, well It's basically hooey.

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Old 04-14-2016, 01:32 PM   #12
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Why are you not just using the charger supplied with the camper?

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Old 04-14-2016, 03:46 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Still Kickin View Post
Regarding desulfurization mode read this; Answer To The Question: Battery Desulfators - Do They Work? - Blog | Impact Battery Blog credit for this well written article came from another forum member. Desulfators, well It's basically hooey.
Just read that article a few weeks ago and re-read it since it was posted here. The article explains in detail why desulfators WORK! Where in the article did you read that they do not work or are hooey, like you said?
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
First time rv owner, literally building this up and heading out for our first adventure. I've been reading the net and here a lot, and decided on two 6v golf cart batteries 225 amp hrs each, one 225 12 v battery, after setting it up in series. So after hooking them up and metering them I got 11.7 volts... Weird. More online searches only to realize they were "dead" from the store, or uncharged... Off to the store and bought a Noco g7200 charger, and charged them for 29 hrs. The Noco said they were charged. So tonight I hooked it all up to my 1000watt inverter to see if I could back feed the whole 5w from the inverter. Before I started my meter showed 12.8v on the two batteries (together) but the inverter only read 12.6. Anyway, turned on lights, the TV, did, and then the furnace... All ran well, and I was monitoring the power drop using my multimeter about every half hour... After about an hour and half, it was reading around 12.25v. I re attached the Noco charger and it seemed to indicate it was at about 50%. My question is, can I expect a 50% drop after only two hours, with a 150watt draw (only when the furnace kicked on), 70-80 watts w led lights and TV/dvd, and converter circuit on. (Before you start into me about having the converter on, the golf carts batteries are NOT tied to the converter for charging... I use the Noco to charge them on shore power only. Path is golf cart batt, fuse, breaker, inverter, 15/30/50 amp cord to 110 panel powering outlets and converter circuit, which runs 12v and charges single 12v battery. Are my batteries toast from not being charged from the store.. They are freakin heavy, so I'd rather not uninstall them if I don't have to..Also all the cables are stone cold to the touch after running 2 hrs size is #1, made the black cables myself with welder ends and using PpC entertainment grade feeder cable. I use it for my sound and lighting rental company rated for 100 amp a/c use.. . Attachment 104846Attachment 104847.
This is a complicated read for me on the micro fine print of my cell phone. But, if I understood it right you are plugging the house into the inverter and running that off the to golf but cart batteries. If you plug the house into the inverter you are powering the converter off your batteries. That doubles or triples the drain on my batteries when I'm running the inverter under the type of load that you're describing. Are these golf cart batteries the only batteries on the house or does the house have its own set of batteries as well? I would reassess my load calculations and have those batteries load tested as well. If they came from the store 2/3 dead, chances are they are damaged goods. Remember and doing load calculations that amperage on a 12 volt circuit is about 8 to 10 times higher than the amperage would be on a 110 volt circuit. Also remember that the better quality your inverter is the greater the loss due to an efficiency. That is to say that some cheap modified sine wave inverters have an input to Output ratio that is more efficient than any pure sine wave inverter. Not to say we don't want pure sine wave comma but just remember that pure sine wave is a little more of a load then would be a poor quality of inverter. Also I had that voltage difference between my batteries and my inverter. At least a tenth of a volt is going to be loss through the wiring
a 2/10 difference might be a variation in your measuring tools or it might indicate that the load at the inverter is causing a lower reading. Either way a true test of your batteries is to disconnect everything for an hour and see what the voltage Flatlines at. Depending on his chart you read the batteries are 50% dead if they are arrested voltage is below 11.9 or thereabout. The voltage under load will always be lower than the voltage measured at the terminals comma because of the load and because of the loss through the wiring those folks who advocated patient at the batteries and an expensive battery monitoring system are likely the only ones getting true data. For the rest of us it's just estimation with crude tools. Good luck to you.
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:24 PM   #15
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So I understand running the 110 v converter breaker circuit using my inverter, sends charge power to the single 12 volt "slide battery", but when I turn only that breaker on , the inverter shows a draw of 10watts or so... Is it really drawing that much?
Does my 110v converter circuit charge the 12 volt battery even when I turn the single 12v disconnect switch off?
I know this is complicated to explain and I'll do a diagram of what is going on and assign some values, but the general consensus is my batteries even though they indicate as being charged Are probably pooched out of the gate. I'll do my trip. And check em out, and if they suck, I'll be taking them back for exchange, since I have already voiced my concerns with the store manager via email. He actually responded offering me a discount on the charger I purchased to charge them..I guess I might be dropping these batteries off at his feet as well
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:53 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Evereddie View Post
Just read that article a few weeks ago and re-read it since it was posted here. The article explains in detail why desulfators WORK! Where in the article did you read that they do not work or are hooey, like you said?
What the article says is that most desulfators don't work but the special kind they sell does. The truth is there is NOTHING in the scientific literature or from independent testing that says ANY of them work to do any desulfating.
I encourage you to read this thread from TWO engineers and electrical specialists who undertook to evaluate desulfators few years back and had no axe to grind and had the proper equipment to find exactly what each one did to restore battery capacity. They found no effective small desulfators and that actual desulfaation cycles from normal chargers did a lot to restore capacity. THAT is the short version. The post is here and the writer runs one of the most successful marine electrical & maintenance businesses in Maine....and lives and breathes 12V systems.
The money quote: "In my own testing of ten such devices from several manufacturers over an 18-month period, using a protocol established by three professional marine electricians, we found no evidence of benefits from these devices"

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Old 04-14-2016, 10:03 PM   #17
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Here is my experience with a desulfator.

Two 6v batteries (4 year old) in series charged up with a one stage 40 amp charger would not take a charge higher than 12.54v (resting voltage)
I purchased a Shumacher 40 amp smart charger with desulfator. First time charging it went into a desulf mode for 5 hours. Those same two batteries now (many charge/discharge cycles later) still have a resting voltage of 12.74

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Old 04-14-2016, 10:11 PM   #18
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Whether desulfator schemes work in some situations or not, the obvious lesson is that good battery maintenance practice used to avoid it in the first place is clearly the best thing we can do to get good service life from lead acid batteries. The old "Ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure" advice is still king.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:18 PM   #19
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Less than a year after I bought my (new) 2011 Georgetown, I suspected that the two house batteries were toast because they drained to the point where they wouldn't start the generator when I took delivery and they had just spent two weeks totally drained, the result of a blown component in the hydraulic jack system. The batteries took a charge and, when measured with a voltmeter and checking the specific gravity of the fluid, showed a full charge. An automotive battery tester also said that the batteries were still in the "good" range.

I decided to perform a full deep cycle usage test on one of the batteries. I built a tester that used some auto headlights for a load, fully charged the battery, hooked up the lights and measured the voltage every 15 minutes. It didn't take long to discover that the battery had only 25% of its rated capacity. It worked fine only for a short while.

I went back to the dealer with the test results and both batteries were replaced as a warranty repair.

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Old 04-14-2016, 10:33 PM   #20
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If I read your setup properly you are plugging from the inverter to your shore power cord. If you have is the water heater on propane of 120 volt? Plus you stated that you have 2 6 volt batteries in parallel for 12 volts in series with a 12 volt. This might be part of your problem. You have one 450 amp 12volt and one 225 amp 12 volt in series.

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