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Old 10-07-2016, 09:10 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
The main reason I chuckle at the Eden Pure advertisements. What a rip off. 1500 watts consumed by an Eden Pure or a box store heater at 1/5th the price of an Eden Pure, produces EXACTLY the same BTU output.

And... under UL guidelines, the maximum (legal to be sold in the United States) current draw is 1500 watts for a 110/1 resistance heater.

Eden Pure is creative and deceptive advertising at it's best (and worst)....
caveat emptor
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Old 11-26-2016, 02:02 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Many have installed or had a electrician install a "Thru wall dedicated circuit" they are the same type used on boats! Connect to the power pedestal with a HD extension cord! Very easy install! Youroo!! Pic of outside power inlet above BTR inlet!

Anyone have step by step instructions on how to do this? Do I really need an electrician? Seems I would need someone with rv experience.
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Old 11-27-2016, 10:35 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by AbdRahim View Post
Anyone have step by step instructions on how to do this? Do I really need an electrician? Seems I would need someone with rv experience.
I don't think I can give you step by step instructions since much of the installation depends on where and how you might mount the various bits in your specific RV.

Here's the inlet port that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-200BB...rkpower+20-amp
and here's a 20-amp circuit breaker that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-420820-1-.../dp/B000R4S8WG
Additional parts included a plastic outlet box, an outlet pair, and some romex wire (probably 12 gauge, though I don't remember for sure), and a box cover plate, all from HD or Lowes.

I wanted to mount the inlet port on the driver's side, near the existing 30 amp inlet, but I couldn't get enough access from the interior of my RV (Solera 24R) to know exactly how that would happen. So I ended up installing it on the passenger side, next to the existing power/cable tv outlets. This area is right behind the kitchen sink / cabinet, so access from the interior was pretty easy.

After confirming that my mounting location was clear on the inside, I used an appropriate sized hole saw to cut the opening for the inlet, attached the wires to the inlet, and installed it from the outside. I added some foam around the inlet on the inside to further ensure that things would be water tight.

I mounted the outlet box to a convenient location on the inside, ran the wiring to it, and wired the circuit breaker in series with the outlet. I used a double width box and cover plate. The cover plate was blank on one side and I drilled a hole in it to accommodate mounting the circuit breaker next to it. I then mounted the various pieces to the box and was done. Everything seems to work.

If I was to do it over again, I'd probably just go with the 15 amp inlet (looks the same, just slightly different exterior plug) and circuit breaker to avoid having to use a 20 amp extension cord. At the time, I thought the extra amps might come in handy...

Dave
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:57 AM   #44
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This is very helpful, Dave. Thank you. The picture does not show the backside, so I was not sure. Perhaps I should let the body shop cut the hole and secure the connector. Then I could take it home and wire the inside.
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