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Old 10-25-2019, 06:49 PM   #41
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well here is the answer to the question of the battery issue

Negative battery cable was never secured to the frame from the factory.

Thanks Forest River!
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Old 10-25-2019, 08:23 PM   #42
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well here is the answer to the question of the battery issue

Negative battery cable was never secured to the frame from the factory.

Thanks Forest River!
So they weren't actually drained but simply unable to make a connection to get the power from them?

A simple test with a voltmeter should have shown that.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:26 PM   #43
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Good find

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Originally Posted by seasure1 View Post
well here is the answer to the question of the battery issue

Negative battery cable was never secured to the frame from the factory.

Thanks Forest River!
Good find!
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Old 10-27-2019, 03:51 PM   #44
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Larry
Thanks for all your assistance along the way!

Crazy but now repaired!
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:01 PM   #45
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Battery drain

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unless you disconnect the battery, everything is not truly off. Lots of vampire loads that will suck them down. Radios, lp detector, control boards etcetera.
you are so correct on your assesment of why the battery goes dead . We just bought a new forest river shanrock 19 and a new deep cycle battery was installed at the time of sale. I just disconnect the pos cable and its fine . Thanks ted
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:05 PM   #46
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To add into this. Most of the large clamp on meters do not do low current readings in DC circuits .

Most don’t read under 10amps.

The ones we use to diag parasitic draws on cars require accuracy to 1 milliamp.

Max allowed draw is 30-50 milliamperes on a car depending on the complexity.
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:11 PM   #47
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Many good clamp meters such as Flukes have an accuracy of plus and minus 100mA. Not good for diagnosing small current draws.
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To add into this. Most of the large clamp on meters do not do low current readings in DC circuits .

Most don’t read under 10amps.

The ones we use to diag parasitic draws on cars require accuracy to 1 milliamp.

Max allowed draw is 30-50 milliamperes on a car depending on the complexity.
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:53 PM   #48
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Many good clamp meters such as Flukes have an accuracy of plus and minus 100mA. Not good for diagnosing small current draws.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024V7HFY/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

This is what we use. Honda did a test with 15-20 different clamps. This is the only one that meant their requirements.
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Old 10-29-2019, 05:03 AM   #49
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Check your breakaway. If that pin is pulled, the brakes will be energized and pull a load off the battery.
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:06 AM   #50
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Inverter draw

My inverter has a direct connection to the battery. It draws power even if it is off and not in use. Will run mine through a battery disconnect next season.
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:20 AM   #51
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Add Negative Battery Switch

I had the same problem . Putting a negative switch on the battery cables shutting both positive and negative off prevented this problem.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:03 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by seasure1 View Post
well here is the answer to the question of the battery issue

Negative battery cable was never secured to the frame from the factory.

Thanks Forest River!
You have a 2014 and this was just found?

Ray
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Old 10-29-2019, 11:25 PM   #53
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Who installed those brand new batteries ?? And did not notice the ground cable was not connected to the frame.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:35 AM   #54
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It would seem to me that if the ground cable wasn't connected it would be pretty impossible for an external draw to exist, causing battery to go dead.

Unless I'm missing something that would cause an open circuit.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:53 AM   #55
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X2 maybe something shorted to ground. ?? If PO always plugged into shore power, but most controls are 12v
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:46 PM   #56
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You have a 2014 and this was just found?

Ray
I was wondering the same thing. How can you blame FR for something that previously worked for 6 years?
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:03 AM   #57
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I had similar issue with my trailer. Turned out to be the power converter. with everything off and no shore power it was pulling about 3 amps all the time.

There were 2 40A fuses in the fusebox, pulling those stopped the drain.
I eventually took the power converter out completely, now use an ordinary battery charger/maintainer when on shore power
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:24 PM   #58
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I had similar issue with my trailer. Turned out to be the power converter. with everything off and no shore power it was pulling about 3 amps all the time.

There were 2 40A fuses in the fusebox, pulling those stopped the drain.
I eventually took the power converter out completely, now use an ordinary battery charger/maintainer when on shore power
I would just buy a new converter.
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:32 AM   #59
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I would just buy a new converter.

Battery charger/maintainer =<$100

Converter/Charger = >$200

Some decisions are made on price.

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Old 11-01-2019, 10:41 AM   #60
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Battery charger/maintainer =<$100

Converter/Charger = >$200

Some decisions are made on price.

And some decisions like that are penny wise...pound foolish. I can think of a lot of ways, using a maintainer while camping could wipe out your savings by killing a battery. If $100 makes or breaks you, probably should find a new hobby.
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