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Old 08-22-2018, 10:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHICKDOE View Post
the only thing left (that i know of) is the reverse polarity fuses in the converter. pull them and check them with a multimeter (ohms or continuity). if they are good sure sounds like the converter.
OP did that in post #5
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Old 08-22-2018, 11:01 AM   #22
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agreed that they were stated as good. was that visually good? just trying to confirm with an actual meter reading. i hate to see components replaced when they don't have to be because the real root issue was never identified. a replacement converter could be installed and it will work. thus the conclusion is the old one was broken. it could be a loose wire somewhere that gets corrected by the new installation, but in this case that seems unlikely as it was stated that 120 vac was getting to the converter. i just hate when things like this do not work!

to put it in perspective our house refrigerator stopped working several weeks ago. it took three weeks to get an initial service call, order parts, and installed them. it worked for less than a week and has stopped working again yesterday. called the warranty company last night and they said the best they can do is to schedule a new appt on sept 18. we had a discussion about that with the supervisor! so it is not only rv service centers that can improve a bit on their schedules and repairs!
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Old 08-22-2018, 11:13 AM   #23
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Surprised...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHICKDOE View Post
to put it in perspective our house refrigerator stopped working several weeks ago. it took three weeks to get an initial service call, order parts, and installed them. it worked for less than a week and has stopped working again yesterday. called the warranty company last night and they said the best they can do is to schedule a new appt on sept 18. we had a discussion about that with the supervisor! so it is not only rv service centers that can improve a bit on their schedules and repairs!
Surprised that you don't do your own refrigerator repairs. About the only things that ever go wrong with them are:
--Compressor relay failure (very common, simple to diagnose, cost $75 from service person, $30 from Amazon, $12 from Ebay)
--Icemaker quits working (fixed by simply defrosting the freezer)
--No cold water at door tap (also defrost the freezer)
--Fan (inside or outside) wears out (You will hear this one and have plenty of notice before it completely quits)

Larry
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:19 AM   #24
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Just wanted to give an update. I received the PD8655, removed the faulty WFCO converter and hooked up the Progressive Dynamics unit. Back in business! Easy install, only 5 wires to connect. They sure make it easy. The last WFCO I removed for the PD unit had lots of connections to make. This updated unit was very, very easy to install. At about $200 it's worth every penny. I've never had a PD unit go bad.
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Old 08-28-2018, 06:56 AM   #25
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Distribution panel

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Originally Posted by OldBob View Post
Just wanted to give an update. I received the PD8655, removed the faulty WFCO converter and hooked up the Progressive Dynamics unit. Back in business! Easy install, only 5 wires to connect. They sure make it easy. The last WFCO I removed for the PD unit had lots of connections to make. This updated unit was very, very easy to install. At about $200 it's worth every penny. I've never had a PD unit go bad.
It all depends on whether you have to replace the 12 volt distribution board.

I installed the the WFCO WF8955 converter boards with a Progressive Dynamics PD4655 MBA (mother board assembly). This comes as two boards and is designed to fit directly in the WFCO case. I could have simply replaced the converter and used the old distribution board--but the new one had a button to force the converter into bulk mode for a period of time. This meant I had to transfer all the 12 volt circuit wiring to the new board.

Since we're always on shore power I can't really see a difference.

Larry
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:57 PM   #26
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You are exactly right. I didn't have to replace the small 12v distribution board. Not much to go wrong with that board so I just replaced the converter. I'm very pleased and such an easy installation.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:39 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
It all depends on whether you have to replace the 12 volt distribution board.

I installed the the WFCO WF8955 converter boards with a Progressive Dynamics PD4655 MBA (mother board assembly). This comes as two boards and is designed to fit directly in the WFCO case. I could have simply replaced the converter and used the old distribution board--but the new one had a button to force the converter into bulk mode for a period of time. This meant I had to transfer all the 12 volt circuit wiring to the new board.

Since we're always on shore power I can't really see a difference.

Larry
I replaced the converter section of my WFCO8955 with a PD9260. The 9260 comes as a totally enclosed unit that can be either installed in the space left from the WFCO converter unit or installed free standing close to the battery bank. The "Button" that allows you to controll the charge mode is merely a "Dongle" that can be installed wherever you want and plugs into the side of the PD9260. No wiring changes required.

I put my dongle in a in the corner next to my refrigerator. Easier to see the indicator light and I don't have to bend over to push it should I want to force a "Boost". I'm at that age when I bend over I need to find as many things to do while I'm bent over because straightining up takes a while

Still using the original WFCO board just as it was installed.
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