Batteries will not work

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 09:16 AM

Hello, all i posted a while ago about not being able to use our Batteries and only having power when our Genny is running?well we went to a local rv dealership to talk about it as our Trailer is way out of town to far to bring back so we are trying to figure this out.

The Shop foreman was very informative, had us look into the external Breakers we have well here is a picture, I'm sure of the problem But want options first. we are going back out Wednesday and want to try everything to get this to work as we have already purchased a great solar system to charge the batteries.

1, batteries are full and husband is hooking them up correctly - white negative red positive.

2 trailer runs fine on Genny power no problems

3 top breaker in pic below has been replace.

4 all fuzzes are good no breaks or burns

we took out a testing light here is what we got

Batteries - power on
Bottom breaker of the 2 stacked breakers on lights up. both posts provide power.
top break new - Nothing no power at all

could this be the problem of the little red wire that connects the 2. on the right side, u shaped
are there any other breakers that we need to find.

Help?

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 09:16 AM

sorry we have a 2011 Revere 27BHLE

Dave_Monica · 06-29-2015, 10:06 AM

Perhaps a silly question but do you have a battery disconnect switch on the camper?

Dave

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 10:11 AM

Not a silly questions i have no idea what you are talking about LOL when we bought this trailer 3 years ago we were new to is. Still new as we have no details on what anything is - so as much detail that can be provided would be great we are willing to try anything even blowing the thing up LOL YUP frustrated

aceinspp · 06-29-2015, 10:12 AM

Maybe when you replaced the Top breaker you are not getting a good connection. Later RJD

Dave_Monica · 06-29-2015, 10:47 AM

If you remove the cover of the junction box on the left in the picture, you may find a in-line fuse or circuit breaker that's causing the problem.

Dave

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 10:58 AM

nothing - The box has wires meeting and capped that's it.... no other breakers.
the ones attached are the only 2 breakers i know of..

hillsdaletc · 06-29-2015, 01:07 PM

Trailworries, It looks like the battery pos. wire goes to the right side of the lower breaker. Then a wire also on that same post goes to the second breaker to provide power to it. Now, you say you do not have 12v power at the second breaker. Looking at the jumper wire it looks to be 14 ga. and the yellow connectors on it are 12 ga. It could be the wire is not stripped back before crimping or pushed in too far and crimped. Therefor not making contact. If you have checked to see if your breakers are resettable (small black reset button on end of breaker ). Try jumping breaker to breaker.

outloud · 06-29-2015, 01:28 PM

By looking at photo looks like the red wire is a inline fuse the wires should pull or wriggle out. That where I would look. Or check the inverter.

Harkerr · 06-29-2015, 01:45 PM

You will need to systematically trace power from the battery with your light. You should be able to see the connections. When you lose the light inspect the previous connection carefully. Likely loose or improperly stripped and crimped

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 02:23 PM

We have no reset buttons, i was on here a couple weeks ago and that was suggested then. I'm going to check out a few thing then go to the near dealer ship from what i have heard this is what we are going to look for when we get back there Wednesday. If anyone can add to this list i will check that to

1, jumper wire - crimped cracked anything looking odd in any wiring
2, in-line fuse or extra circuit breakers other than the 2 clearly seen
3. disconnection switch - maybe no where near the battery area

the one thing i have noticed the most is that we can't find electrical plans for wiring anywhere on line. I know that would be the biggest help here, but if i enter my style trailer i can't find it either.... YUP WEIRD

so again if you have anything extra for us to look into please forward your thoughts.

if i wanted to double check the smaller fuses in the breaker panel with the test light would i go from top to bottom and right side to left? or the other way?

B and B · 06-29-2015, 02:39 PM

I wonder if you have 2 blown battery polarity fuses in the converter? Check and see if two red leds are lite? You can ground the test light and check fuses on both sides. there is little slot in the top of the fuse.

**bikendan** · 06-29-2015, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailerworries

the one thing i have noticed the most is that we can't find electrical plans for wiring anywhere on line. I know that would be the biggest help here, but if i enter my style trailer i can't find it either.... YUP WEIRD

not WEIRD, because they don't exist.

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 02:51 PM

OK start from the front and go back to the panel - Will do Thank you all i will reply with my findings, I'm debating bring in a on the road repair company ... we will see

trailerworries · 06-29-2015, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

not WEIRD, because they don't exist.

i know why is that? I see 2012's not 2011.....

Probwrm19 · 06-29-2015, 06:26 PM

Others have the right idea, check each connection in line, one by one, especially crimped connections for corrosion. Check any wiring connected to trailer body for corrosion as well.

**bikendan** · 06-29-2015, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailerworries

i know why is that? I see 2012's not 2011.....

Where have you seen 2012 wiring diagrams of any RV?

Tom48 · 06-29-2015, 08:07 PM

Start with the red line where your finger is pointing in the second picture. If that is where you say there is still power, follow it as it looks like it would be the one moving to your 12 volt power panel. There is very likely a cut off switch along the way. Some are mounted on the front frame cross member and use either a chrome knob about 3/4 inch diameter, or round 3/4 inch plastic hole that takes a red key and a quarter turn to turn on the power. Mine is the chrome knob type which reminds me of an after market panel switch in an old old pickup truck. Anyway it pulls out to turn on and pushed or snaps in to shut off. Looks like the smaller red line in front may be running back to your break control box and that usually stays hot and is not turned off by the power / battery on off switch. So track it with the test lite and like someone said eventually you will reach a point where it is no longer hot and that is where you look for the problem. My batt on off switch is in the box where my shore power lead comes out of the trailer. I have seen them in the wall next to the entry door and in or next to the fuse box in some interesting places like the cabinet under the fridge or behind a couch Usually near the 120 volt main shore power breaker box. Wish I could come over and help. Good Luck

Tom48 · 06-29-2015, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

If you remove the cover of the junction box on the left in the picture, you may find a in-line fuse or circuit breaker that's causing the problem.

Dave

That box is usually the automotive light controls / hook ups. The 1st breaker should be the main in line fuse then it peels back to the connector box to power the emergency breakaway switch to activate the electric brakes in case you come off the hitch. The red wire continuing rearward is the main battery supply to the house

ervinglobal · 06-30-2015, 12:51 PM

I would try to find the battery disconnect switch. As you have power coming from your gen and I assume same when you plugged into shore power. All trailers if you have a battery disconnect bypass the batteries with out charging them or connecting it to the inverter. This is just my opinion but welcome to check all the other options also.
Good luck.

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