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Old 10-12-2015, 03:03 PM   #11
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X2,

I also agree on the "Battery Minder" or "Battery Tender Jr" (same units). These wont' "overcharge" but put out enough to keep the battery fresh and any "keep alive" or ECU type loads from running the battery down. Even with massive failure these units can only provide less than 2amps so risk of boiling, fire, etc. is nil... Use one of these instead of the RV converter.
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:04 PM   #12
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cautiously optimistic

Turned a/c unit on and voltage stayed the same at 13.5..ran it for an hour
new battery still cool to the touch and I think that It is OK.

Should the charge eventually drop to a trickle?
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:07 PM   #13
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posted above prematurely

Appreciate the advice and you answered my question..it is ok and advisable to disconnect the batt while trailer is hooked up to shore power..
I can easily do this.. and have a charger to maintain it..

I have left battery hooked up since I bought the trailer new in 2012
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #14
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No, I wouldn't disconnect the battery when camping. However while in storage, Yes. If you are going to leave it for days, I would disconnect the battery and charge it with a Intelligent trickle charger. ("Battery Minder" or "Battery Tender Jr".) These units will keep the battery at it's optimum with no risk of overcharging.

BTW, I sold my business last year and still have at least one of the Battery Tender Jr's new still in plastic packaging. They retailed for about $25. You can have this one for $20 plus shipping if you want it.

In any case it looks like you fixed your problem.
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:46 PM   #15
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I'm having the same problem that the op has with boiling. It seems fine now, but if I disconnect the battery and put a tender on it. Will any damage be done to the converter while plugged into shore? There's still voltage going through the cables, will that hurt anything?
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawolf71 View Post
Turned a/c unit on and voltage stayed the same at 13.5..ran it for an hour
new battery still cool to the touch and I think that It is OK.

Should the charge eventually drop to a trickle?
seawolf, If you have a WFCO converter, you can not drop to float mode at 13.2/13.1v until the units reads no voltage requirement for 48 hrs. If you have any parasites at all such as co/mox detector or radio clocks it will stay in absorption mode at 13.5v. and never drop to 13.2/13.1v or float mode. I went through two convertors that did that. It reads the the parasites as loads. Only convertor that can read those loads and still drop to float so you don't boil out is a progressive. It can read those light loads and still enter float mode at 13.1. I have been plugged in 24/7 since 2012 and had the samething happen to me. If your plugged in and still reading 13.5 volts at your batteries after 48 hrs your not going to drop down. Either you isolate the loads and install SPST switches at the loads or change convertors or use the battery tender or check your water every month with the WFCO when not in use and stored with 24/7 power.
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Old 10-12-2015, 07:43 PM   #17
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Understood

I will be disconnecting that battery when we return and putting it in the workshop on a trickle charger .Plenty of time in advance to bring it to a full charge and reinstall it ..even with a hurricane coming..

Awesome information..thanks all
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I'm having the same problem that the op has with boiling. It seems fine now, but if I disconnect the battery and put a tender on it. Will any damage be done to the converter while plugged into shore? There's still voltage going through the cables, will that hurt anything?
No. No damage will be done...
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:23 PM   #19
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OK, thanks Jim.
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