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Old 06-27-2013, 11:58 AM   #11
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Do what exactly?

Also if you have a wfco converter/charger go to to library right next to user cp on the browser towards the top of this page in the green stripe and there's a trouble shooting guide for your charger under electronics
It may be that your charger is stuck in bulk mode over charging battery.


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I have the troubleshooting guide for the WFCO 8995, and the manual. THe "three stage charger" actually a true two stage, normal (13.6V), bulk "boost" (14-14.4V), float stages (13.2V)... since I isolated the battery and checked the output of the converter at 13.6 I assume it is in normal mode. I would have a concern if when connected to the batter im reading a constant 14 or higher load then I will troubleshoot the converter. But since both cables are hot and the battery outside of the system after it was connected for a while still read 12.0V I want to make sure my battery does not have a bad cell. With a new battery, if I still see hot cables or read higher that 13.8V than I should start looking for loose connections and or converter troubles correct?

my question above was more about the sparks from connecting the battery? is this normal for an RV? shore or no shore supply wont the capacitor cause this regardless
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:00 PM   #12
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Fyi you should have a 3 stage converter and with a good battery you should see
Bulk mode "highest voltage"
Absorption mode
And float mode "lowest out put voltage"

If your charger remains in bulk it will kill the battery.



Attachment 34069
I had labeled the modes wrong in my last post was typing it when you posted this. I did some research on the converter before this post. The bulk mode should read 14 or higher correct?
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:14 PM   #13
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Nominal (Absorption Mode) 13.6 Vdc (includes charging and load)*- Boost (Bulk Mode)14.4 Vdc*- Trickle (Float Mode) 13.2 Vdc (after 48 hrs.)
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:33 PM   #14
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Sounds like your TV was not charging your battery on the drive home. Sparks are normal. I like watching my wife jump when she hooks up the battery . Terminals should not be getting hot. Do you have a good tight connection? Keep in mind that with your 30/15 converter, your system will still try to take all the power it wants. If you are using too much, you will get a low voltage situation.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:34 PM   #15
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I would suspect the battery. What is the date code on the battery? It may be the original battery. The conductors to the battery getting hot indicates that there is a lot of current draw, probably close to 20A. There should be a 20A fuse for the conductors going to the battery in the positive leg.

The reason I would suspect the battery is that if there was a short or damage in the wiring to the battery from the charger, when you disconnected the wire from the battery, a portion of the wire would stay hot. This would be the portion between the charger and the damaged/shorted wire.

However, since the wires are hot right at the battery, the battery is drawing all that current. While this would be normal for a severely discharged battery, the heavy current draw would level out and voltage will rise. Yours seems to be continuous if I followed the conversation correctly.

A battery with some plates shorted can still read 12 V but it's capacity is compromised and will draw a lot of current. If there is an Interstate Battery store near you, you could take the battery in and have it load tested. That will tell you the condition of the battery.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:42 PM   #16
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Sounds like your TV was not charging your battery on the drive home. Sparks are normal. I like watching my wife jump when she hooks up the battery . Terminals should not be getting hot. Do you have a good tight connection? Keep in mind that with your 30/15 converter, your system will still try to take all the power it wants. If you are using too much, you will get a low voltage situation.
IT can try and draw all the power it wants, the 15amp circuit on the garage outlet might not agree though
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:44 PM   #17
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Correct. The first thing that will happen is the voltage will drop and then the current will increase (making things hot). This will continue until you pop the breaker.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:45 PM   #18
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I would suspect the battery. What is the date code on the battery? It may be the original battery. The conductors to the battery getting hot indicates that there is a lot of current draw, probably close to 20A. There should be a 20A fuse for the conductors going to the battery in the positive leg.

The reason I would suspect the battery is that if there was a short or damage in the wiring to the battery from the charger, when you disconnected the wire from the battery, a portion of the wire would stay hot. This would be the portion between the charger and the damaged/shorted wire.

However, since the wires are hot right at the battery, the battery is drawing all that current. While this would be normal for a severely discharged battery, the heavy current draw would level out and voltage will rise. Yours seems to be continuous if I followed the conversation correctly.

A battery with some plates shorted can still read 12 V but it's capacity is compromised and will draw a lot of current. If there is an Interstate Battery store near you, you could take the battery in and have it load tested. That will tell you the condition of the battery.
There should be little to zero load on the battery, it was overheating with nothing at all on in the trailer except the converter putting the charge on. I know the circuit in the garage is a 15 amp circuit so it would have thrown a breaker if it attempted any more than 15. The wires did not stay hot after the battery was removed. while connected to shore power.
Here in 15 min that is my plan to have it load tested and buy a cutoff switch.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:50 PM   #19
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Correct. The first thing that will happen is the voltage will drop and then the current will increase (making things hot). This will continue until you pop the breaker.
The only thing that could increase the load would be the converter, something left on, or a short. Does anyone know offhand what the amperage output is for the converter
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:03 PM   #20
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There should be little to zero load on the battery, it was overheating with nothing at all on in the trailer except the converter putting the charge on. I know the circuit in the garage is a 15 amp circuit so it would have thrown a breaker if it attempted any more than 15. The wires did not stay hot after the battery was removed. while connected to shore power.
Here in 15 min that is my plan to have it load tested and buy a cutoff switch.
The battery will only be supplying any current to loads when there is no shore power. Since the wires were hot when connected to shore power, that indicates the current flow is into the battery as the converter is providing power to any dc loads when connected to shore power.

I still think the problem is your battery.
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