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Old 06-03-2015, 09:26 AM   #1
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Battery Drain Issue

I keep my RV plugged in all the time with fridge on and in a building. Batteries are regularly checked for water. This is my problem. When I leave to go on a trip, battery is fully charged and charger portion of converter/inverter is working. The majority of our trips are anywhere from 2-5hrs from home, sometimes my battery is very low when I arrive at my destination. 2 trips ago, I had to use jumper cables off of truck battery to get set-up. Memorial Day Weekend, we had a breaker issue at the power pedestal, it took the campground about 30 minutes to change out breaker. In that length of time my lights went from bright white to pale yellow to nearly off. Is that normal? Is there some phantom load that is draining my battery. Also checked my (+) post on my truck connection and it is getting power. Shouldn't my RV battery be charging thru my truck system when in tow? Plenty things here that make no sense to me. Any thoughts/opinions/educated guesses would be greatly appreciated. Going to cut my yard so it will look nice while I am camping this weekend and to rid my brain of this issue for an hour or so. Please leave post and I will check back later. Steve
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:52 AM   #2
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Have you had your battery checked for a bad cell?
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:52 AM   #3
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You might want to go have the battery(s) checked. Doesn't sound like they are holding a charge.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:04 PM   #4
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Have you had your battery checked for a bad cell?
had the battery load tested yesterday and it tested fine. That's whats so frustrating
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:12 PM   #5
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You don't say what model you have. If you have a model with a three way fridge and you are running it on battery, it could be that the 12V ( acc ) line form the TV is not live. A 3 way fridge on 12v will kill the battery fast. Check the 12V line voltage at the Bargman. Some TV's have the 12V pin wired , but they do not install the fuse in the fuse panel. If you have 12V then check the voltage when the TV is running and the TT hooked up with fridge running. Many times there is enough voltage drop that the TV will not be sufficient and the fridge will just drain the TT battery.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:13 PM   #6
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It would be easiest if you could tell us what type and size of battery you're using. It may just be an undersized battery.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:21 PM   #7
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I have a 2012, 36RE Cedar Creek with a RM1350 side by side fridge. gas/elect. pretty sure it is the 845/675 SRM-29 Interstate battery. Bought rig new in march '12. Just started experiencing this about 3-4 trips back. Maybe 4 months ago. Have 12V to the TRUCK plug. Not sure what after that. Where can I check the voltage at the fridge?? Battery tested good on my mechanics machine.
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:45 PM   #8
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pretty sure it is the 845/675 SRM-29 Interstate battery.
That would be part of the problem. That's an RV/Marine hybrid deep cycle. It only has 85ah (or 42 @ 50%). From the sounds of it, it's been fully discharged a few times which will dramatically affect it's capacity.

The other issue may be a blown relay in your TV. While driving it should be supplying enough 12v to keep up with at least a portion of your reefers draw on propane.

I would start by getting a voltmeter on your plug to test for 12v supply on your TV. Relays are cheap and any decent automotive store should have them in stock.

Battery-wise.. it's probably about time to put it out to pasture and trade the core in on a couple of 6v golf cart deep cycle batteries from you local box store. Sam's club/Costco generally have those in stock for around $85-90 a pop. That would get you into a "true" deep cycle battery and more than double your available amp hour capacity @ 220 vs 85.

If you decide to go that route check the manufacture date to get the freshest and matching 6 volt cells. Any battery shop will be able to hook you up with cables to parallel the 2 6v's.
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:00 PM   #9
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That would be part of the problem. That's an RV/Marine hybrid deep cycle. It only has 85ah (or 42 @ 50%). From the sounds of it, it's been fully discharged a few times which will dramatically affect it's capacity.

The other issue may be a blown relay in your TV. While driving it should be supplying enough 12v to keep up with at least a portion of your reefers draw on propane.

I would start by getting a voltmeter on your plug to test for 12v supply on your TV. Relays are cheap and any decent automotive store should have them in stock.
Checked the plug. It is getting like 12.3/12.4


Battery-wise.. it's probably about time to put it out to pasture and trade the core in on a couple of 6v golf cart deep cycle batteries from you local box store. Sam's club/Costco generally have those in stock for around $85-90 a pop. That would get you into a "true" deep cycle battery and more than double your available amp hour capacity @ 220 vs 85.

If you decide to go that route check the manufacture date to get the freshest and matching 6 volt cells. Any battery shop will be able to hook you up with cables to parallel the 2 6v's.
I have already checked the plug with a plug in light and it is getting power. Now I am not sure how much power the light needs to light up.
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:11 PM   #10
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It's also possible by having it plugged in all the time at home you've killed the battery's ability to hold a charge. I'm not sure what's in the Cedar Creek's but it's a WFCO like mine then I don't think they're exactly the best for maintaining a battery. On mine, it appears to constantly supply power to the battery, which even at a trickle, can overcharge and thereby shorten the battery's lifespan.

For that matter, I'm in the market to replace mine, since it doesn't hold the charge long enough to power the slide once I go from home to the storage yard, and my AC Delco is only a little over 2 years old. At 3 years from a stock, dealer supplied, marine/RV battery you're probably due for a replacement. I agree with Yarome's assessment that you'll want to look for a decent true deep cycle battery as a replacement.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:23 PM   #11
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It's also possible by having it plugged in all the time at home you've killed the battery's ability to hold a charge. I'm not sure what's in the Cedar Creek's but it's a WFCO like mine then I don't think they're exactly the best for maintaining a battery. On mine, it appears to constantly supply power to the battery, which even at a trickle, can overcharge and thereby shorten the battery's lifespan.

For that matter, I'm in the market to replace mine, since it doesn't hold the charge long enough to power the slide once I go from home to the storage yard, and my AC Delco is only a little over 2 years old. At 3 years from a stock, dealer supplied, marine/RV battery you're probably due for a replacement. I agree with Yarome's assessment that you'll want to look for a decent true deep cycle battery as a replacement.
Oh i don't know...... [emoji10]
My unit is a 2011 with the original "batteries" and mine is plugged in 24/7 365.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:55 PM   #12
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Oh i don't know...... [emoji10]
My unit is a 2011 with the original "batteries" and mine is plugged in 24/7 365.
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I'll never say anything against Turbs if I ever want a chance to taste some decent pulled smoked pork and homegrown beer...

As much as I want to comment.. I'll shut my mouth.
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:27 AM   #13
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I'll never say anything against Turbs if I ever want a chance to taste some decent pulled smoked pork and homegrown beer...

As much as I want to comment.. I'll shut my mouth.
Probably best!
But I can take it....... comment away!

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Old 06-05-2015, 07:15 AM   #14
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Oh i don't know...... [emoji10]
My unit is a 2011 with the original "batteries" and mine is plugged in 24/7 365.
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Yes, but are you running with a WFCO converter? I thought I had read you had swapped over to a progressive dynamics instead which could make the difference.




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Old 06-05-2015, 07:21 AM   #15
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Yes, but are you running with a WFCO converter? I thought I had read you had swapped over to a progressive dynamics instead which could make the difference.




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I do in fact have the factory wfco "yet".
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Old 06-05-2015, 04:00 PM   #16
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Probably best!
But I can take it....... comment away!
I already got virtually "punched out" the last time I gave you grief over not changing your WFCO out yet.

What's the old adage, "seen but not heard".

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Old 06-05-2015, 04:01 PM   #17
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I already got virtually "punched out" the last time I gave you grief over not changing your WFCO out yet.

What's the old adage, "seen but not heard".

[emoji85] [emoji86]

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Old 06-24-2015, 05:30 AM   #18
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OK, after several days of "dormancy", I am back on a mission to resolve this problem. This is what i have done. I disconnected battery while hooked to shore power. Reading was slightly over 14v coming from converter, which from what I hear is fine. Next I disconnected shore power and hooked connection to truck. Cables only reading 11.94v, which I also hear is not adequate to charge battery while underway. A "semi-retired" tech told me to check power at truck plug which I did and it read slightly over 14v. Checked the voltage inside the junction box in the kingpin and it is at 11.94. I had my brother wiggle and put pressure pushing in on the plug while taking reading and voltage never changed. have a bumper plug-in as well as a in-bed plug-in and both are reading good voltage coming from truck. My conclusion is that the plug is bad and will probably change entire pig-tail just to be safe and a neater/watertight job. Any opinions. Thanks for all the replies. They made me think, which at times is dangerous. Steve
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:57 PM   #19
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Job done. Changed 7-pin cord to truck. Made it to Riverview RV Park in Vidalia,LA yesterday and battery was fully charged. Yippee Skippy! Now on to next project: Front A/C keeps "peeing" on my bed. Follow me to the A/C repair forum!! Unless it's the same as this one and I'll be back. Steve
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