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Old 08-21-2014, 12:17 AM   #11
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That's one of those things that I've been fighting for years. I've come to believe that the lines themselves draw a bit of power, even though I've been told otherwise.

I have house 12v and solar shutoff switches that kills everything including the house o2 and monoxide sensors and I STILL get a .6 amp draw on my system. I don't think you're doing anything wrong, but a couple of days does seem rather dramatic. As mentioned.. it might be a good idea to invest in a multimeter to see where the load is coming from.
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:06 AM   #12
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Check your solar controller make sure it is blocking the battery at night?? I'm not sure what you mean by this could you explain? Thanks! ONTHELAKE the solar controller (panel)is connected to the battery as per instructions that came with the solar panel.We also have a solar charge hooked up to it as well.It a coleman panel 20w 12v with a 8.5 amp battery charger. Thanks again you guys/girls are awesome!!
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:09 AM   #13
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So to check the LOAD to see where the draw is coming from. How do I go about this also how do I know what is too much? Im sorry i am so new at this and my husband is no better
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:42 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by tbeefitz View Post
Check your solar controller make sure it is blocking the battery at night?? I'm not sure what you mean by this could you explain? Thanks! ONTHELAKE the solar controller (panel)is connected to the battery as per instructions that came with the solar panel.We also have a solar charge hooked up to it as well.It a coleman panel 20w 12v with a 8.5 amp battery charger. Thanks again you guys/girls are awesome!!
When I had solar panels on my sailboat they had to install a controller that stop the panels getting feed and drained over night from the battery's. I had a Marine Engineer install the system with included an invertor for 110v. I lived off battery power for years on the boat. It's really a diode that they installed only letting power flow one way. That's really all I can say about it besides him telling me that the panels can drain your battery's at night without this installed. It was a system designed and installed by them with tracking sun capability done automatically. I was sailing around the world so I needed all this tech. stuff. Some panels will not do this and come with a cheap controller. After 5 years and 15,000 blue water miles under her keel we got tired and returned to the good old USA. about 1/2 way we made it. Our retirement dream.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:04 AM   #15
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When I had solar panels on my sailboat they had to install a controller that stop the panels getting feed and drained over night from the battery's. I had a Marine Engineer install the system with included an invertor for 110v. I lived off battery power for years on the boat. It's really a diode that they installed only letting power flow one way. That's really all I can say about it besides him telling me that the panels can drain your battery's at night without this installed. It was a system designed and installed by them with tracking sun capability done automatically. I was sailing around the world so I needed all this tech. stuff. Some panels will not do this and come with a cheap controller. After 5 years and 15,000 blue water miles under her keel we got tired and returned to the good old USA. about 1/2 way we made it. Our retirement dream.
Sorry for the "hijack"
Glenn this a cool story I'd love to hear some time.

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:09 AM   #16
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As stated, cheaper controllers shipped with low wattage panels may or may not have a "blocking diode" in the line to the battery.

Some sub 25 watt panels actually generate only "trickle charge" amperage and don't even HAVE a controller and certainly don't have a blocking diode. They are only designed to be connected in full sun; then disconnected when the sun goes down.

The blocking diode prevents the battery from discharging through the panel when the generated panel voltage drops below battery voltage.

As to the climate control (an automatic defroster heater powered by 12 volt DC), older units have a switch in the top of the freezer door that you MUST turn off when on battery. In the DM3862 it is in a button on the control panel.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:16 AM   #17
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If you have the switch, it'll be visible on the underside of the top of the fridge, just above the freezer door. Most likely though it'll be like ours and not have a switch. In that case, you can

A) pull the jumper for the fridge light, which also powers the climate control
B) cut the wire behind the fridge light as per the instructions in the thread I referred to above.

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Here are some photos of how this was done to a DM2852.
The thread is on an RV2 website (link provided but unless you have this model AND it does not have the switch; it is NOT useful). New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums

In fact according to the new repair manual there may not even BE a 12 volt heater in these units.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:28 AM   #18
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so I guess when I say charged up, it was on G. The only thing on in my camper is the fridge. I will have to look for the climate control button.Where is that located?
G means "Good" and it will stay lit until the battery capacity drops to about 50% charged when it will go out.

"F" (Fair) will stay on in that case until the battery reached 20% capacity remains. Permanent reduction in charge cycles available happens anytime the "Good" light is out.

"L" or "Low" light only means PERMENANT DAMAGE to your battery is occurring and full capacity (whatever AH it says is possible) will never again be possible due to that plate damage. The longer the battery's charge stays below 11.5 volts the less likely the battery will even accept a charge.
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