Originally Posted by Missdenise
I sort of have the same issue but the suggestion for a battery shut off will not work. We have a battery shut off installed but we cannot use it in this instance.
We are camping 3 wkends at the same campground but we must be unplugged to be permitted to stay on the site during the week. With my previous camper, also a FR product, we turned the refrigerator to gas, left on a Sunday, came back on Friday and everything was fine. I tried that last wk and came back to spoiled food and warm a refrigerator. I walked thru the camper twice to make sure nothing was left on. What could be happening? I read the thread about the fridge heater switch, but we do not have such a switch on the fridge.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Does it get cool on GAS
when you are plugged in and things are turned on in the coach? Or does it not work on gas no matter what your plug in situation is? If it doesn't work on gas no matter what...then the first place to check would be that the propane detector is operating correctly and has a green light...that is an automatic circuit that cuts off the gas tank solenoid switch if it is not working properly.
If you do have it working on gas when plugged in ...but it fails when the batteries are disconnected...it could be a refrigerator 12v circuit....check your manual or provide the make/model here so someone can check if such a circuit exists.
Alternatively, it could be that the propane detector is wired into the cutoff switch rather than direct to the battery terminal...moving the wire so the switch doesn't affect it would solve the problem.
The other possibility is that your fridge DOES work on both power & no power (battery) ....but that your battery is failing and has lost most capacity so it starts off the week fine...but the drain of the propane detector eventually drains the battery and cuts off the gas solenoid leaving your food warm and spoiled by the time you return. Solution is a new battery with enough capacity to stand up to DOUBLE your parasitic drains on it while you are away. To figure out those drains you need an amp meter (DC clamp meter) after you've be plugged in for at least a day or two. Unplug...turn off everything with the kill switch...and clamp the red battery wire and you'll be reading the parasitic amp drain while you are away from the coach. To keep things simple...lets assume you find a 1/2 amp current still running.
This means your batteries are losing 1/2 amp per HOUR...1 amp hour every 2 hours and therefore 12 amphours per DAY. If you go away for a week...that is 7x12 or 64 amp hours...3 weeks 250 amp hours or so.
So you must have a battery bank of TWICE that or 500 amp hours to support your use while away from the trailer for 3 weeks.
Now it is much more likely that you will have a much smaller amp drain and need much less battery power...but the math work is the same.
If you show a 1/10 amp draw then you use 1 amp every 10 hours...and 2.4 amp hours each day etc. etc. ....just make sure the rated deep cycle amp hours of your NEW coach battery is at least double amps you use on your absences in storage time.