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Old 01-02-2013, 03:35 PM   #11
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Camano Island, Washington
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Originally Posted by kritta View Post
yeah - ours does not have a battery cut off switch - but we are looking into one. Seems ridiculous you spend this much money on a trailer and it does not come with a $10-$50 part to save your battery life - or know ones tells you about it. Kind of disappointing
that's because most modern RV'ers don't dry camp or boondock.
the vast majority have hookups.

for us in Calif., our state park campgrounds rarely have any hookups, so dry camping is a way of life out here.
so, we have two batteries, a disconnect switch and a Honda 2000i.

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Old 01-02-2013, 03:53 PM   #12
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This is what you need!

Blue Sea Systems Mini Battery Switch


This is what is needed to isolate your battery completely so the battery does not go dead while in storage: It is a marine cut-off switch to be installed next to the battery. The switch is about $24.00, nice heavy duty.

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Old 01-02-2013, 03:56 PM   #13
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW AR
Posts: 151
You've been given advice but it is all over the place. It's really difficult to know what to do unless you have a plan.
1. You said that you charged the Battery (B+) at 2-amps for some time. That will charge a B+ if it is good. Get it load tested as you were told. If it checks out OK fine. If not replace the B+.
2. Once you know the B+ is capable of accepting a charge plug your camper into shore power and check the voltage at the B+ which is coming from the converter. The voltage at the camper B+ should read around 13.7-V. If no then you have an open in that circuit or a problem with the converter. If you had a B+ disconnect switch then it might be off and you'd have no converter voltage to the B+. I just had that experience.
3. If you have 13.7-Volts at the B+ and the B+ has been checked then you'll have to determine if you have an excessive current drain. Most campers will drain a small amount of current to power small items. Your car has the same thing happening. In most cases the drain is minimal and you will run your vehicle often enough to recharge the B+. I usually leave my camper plugged in at home. We have a heater running during the winter.
4. Checking the camper current drain requires an amp meter and can be done by most decent camper repair facilities.
Solving electrical problems requires a step by step common sense approach. You have to check one thing at a time and usually in a certain order, to determine the problem. Replacing parts and not following a set procedure will result in tail chasing, wasted $$$$$ replacing parts and most times a trip to a good diagnostic tech to solve the problem.
Best of luch and let me know what you find out.


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