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Old 07-24-2012, 09:48 AM   #11
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To the OP, I wonder if your battery was fully charged when you left.
Plugging in at home for 24 hours should do it but maybe not.

Read our FAQ here
Why is my new battery dead?

Check your battery with a digital meter. Turn off most everything and
check voltage at the battery.
12.75 volts with no load (nothing on, not charging) is pretty close to 100% full.
12.00 volts with no load is pretty close to 50% charge and you want to
try to always stay above 50% for longest battery life.

IF you want to find your phantom loads you can do that.
My meter has a amps scale.
It can test milliamps but has one scale that's 2 amps I believe.
Start with your highest amp scale and pull fuses at your fuse box
one at a time.
Place the meter leads across the empty fuse holder.
The meter takes the place of the fuse and reads any current that's passing
in that circuit. You can quickly find circuits that are drawing off your
battery this way. Take notes so you get a total.
Some trailers might have the LP detector on it's own inline fuse and not
actually go thru the fuse box.

You should be able to go 2 days easy, if you're careful. You need to
be sure you're starting with a FULL charge and you need to use a meter
to find everything that's drawing off your battery.
Hope you get to the bottom of your problem.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
To the OP, I wonder if your battery was fully charged when you left.
Plugging in at home for 24 hours should do it but maybe not.

Read our FAQ here
Why is my new battery dead?

Check your battery with a digital meter. Turn off most everything and
check voltage at the battery.
12.75 volts with no load (nothing on, not charging) is pretty close to 100% full.
12.00 volts with no load is pretty close to 50% charge and you want to
try to always stay above 50% for longest battery life.

IF you want to find your phantom loads you can do that.
My meter has a amps scale.
It can test milliamps but has one scale that's 2 amps I believe.
Start with your highest amp scale and pull fuses at your fuse box
one at a time.
Place the meter leads across the empty fuse holder.
The meter takes the place of the fuse and reads any current that's passing
in that circuit. You can quickly find circuits that are drawing off your
battery this way. Take notes so you get a total.
Some trailers might have the LP detector on it's own inline fuse and not
actually go thru the fuse box.

You should be able to go 2 days easy, if you're careful. You need to
be sure you're starting with a FULL charge and you need to use a meter
to find everything that's drawing off your battery.
Hope you get to the bottom of your problem.
Thanks from all of us for the post. Great info.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:48 AM   #13
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Dometic said:

"On the newer models this is a built in feature that you cannot turn off. The switch used to be located on the underside of the refrigerator frame just under the control panel. Based on your product and serial number yours should be built in"

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Old 07-24-2012, 12:55 PM   #14
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You guys beat me to it.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skelshy View Post
Dometic said:
"On the newer models this is a built in feature that you cannot turn off. The switch used to be located on the underside of the refrigerator frame just under the control panel. Based on your product and serial number yours should be built in"
That's ridiculous! Don't they (dometic) understand that some of us
WANT to camp off the grid. How much can that tiny switch cost?
They saved 50 and took away your choice to save battery.

Still suggest the "ammeter" test of all circuits.
See what is your load and you can go from there to try and lower
your battery drain.
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2004 5.3L Silverado 1500 ext. cab 2WD
1999 Suzuki Intruder Motorcycle
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:04 PM   #16
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Mine must be built in
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:12 PM   #17
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If my next refer comes with an anti-condensation heater and no switch
I will find a way to disconnect it- unless it's 120v operation only.
Running any kind of heater on battery power is just a bad idea if you're
trying to conserve power while camping off the grid.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
In your fridge there is a "defroster" switch in the door. It runs on 12 VDC.
If you forget to turn it off you will be quite lucky even with battery conservation to get 36 hours (it is a heating element). Check that.

Holding Tank heaters are also 12 volts.
Yes I would check as Herk has said. My 5th wheel has the same fridge defroster and holding tank heaters. Tank heaters is not the same as "Hot water tank heater" as I had to remind my lovely wife more than once while boondocking in the middle of the summer.lol
Its a game of amp/Hrs. With only 140 Amp/Hrs. (at best) Thats only about 3.5 amp of draw over 36 Hrs. Real easy to have 3.5 amp draw and not even notice. Ive heard that even the LEL detector pulls 1 amp. Each and every light bulb is about 1 amp.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:14 PM   #19
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The holding tank heater switch is clearly labeled, but thank you

I converted to LED lights and light usage is not so much a problem as we'll be roughly aware how much we are using. I'm more worried about stuff that's on 24x7.

I'll ask dometic if the switch can be retrofitted or the element disconnected. We're mostly dry camping and I don't see that change a lot. A lot of the campgrounds we go to don't have hookups or if they have, you have to reserve 6/9 months in advance.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skelshy View Post
The holding tank heater switch is clearly labeled, but thank you

I converted to LED lights and light usage is not so much a problem as we'll be roughly aware how much we are using. I'm more worried about stuff that's on 24x7.

I'll ask dometic if the switch can be retrofitted or the element disconnected. We're mostly dry camping and I don't see that change a lot. A lot of the campgrounds we go to don't have hookups or if they have, you have to reserve 6/9 months in advance.
Man, I have to tell you, I would get a second opinion at Dometic. I also find it very hard to believe they would install a 12 volt heater in their fridge.

Gonna do more research on your model fridge as the base model is the same as mine just a different "shred." (RBX)
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