Battery gone in 36h, where to start?

[Skelshy]

Thanks for the encouragement. Today they sent back an excerpt from the manual showing the switch (that I don't have). I guess I should try calling and getting to someone who understands the problem as you said.

[BBB]

This Dometic Climate Control Heater battery drain issue just surfaced on my friends first boon-docking camping trip. He woke up to a dead battery and we couldn't figure out why. I told him the same thing happened to me on my first dry outing and I found I had turned on the Climate Control Heater switch not knowing what it was.

This heater is otherwise known as the "heater cable" on the factory schematics and is there to help prevent moisture build up around the doors. His new unit does not have a switch to turn it off but all the factory schematics still show a switch.

I noted on another site that you can disconnect the Climate Control Heater "heater cable" electrical supply wire inside the fridges interior light so that the interior light will still function but the "heater cable" will no longer drain the battery. They both just happen to be on the same electrical feed wire from the controller.

Not sure why they would eliminate the switch but I know from experience that door heater, as I call it, will drain a single battery overnight.

We will be performing this easy modification to his to prevent this parasitic current draw:

New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums

[Great Lakes]

Originally Posted by BBB

I noted on another site that you can disconnect the Climate Control Heater "heater cable" electrical supply wire inside the fridges interior light so that the interior light will still function but the "heater cable" will no longer drain the battery. They both just happen to be on the same electrical feed wire from the controller.

Not sure why they would eliminate the switch but I know from experience that door heater, as I call it, will drain a single battery overnight.

We will be performing this easy modification to his to prevent this parasitic current draw:

New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums

This is fantastic information. I've also been fighting the premature flat battery syndrome. After reading this thread, I looked at the schematic for my DM2652, and it shows a heater on the same line as the interior light. I didn't realize the unit had it since there was no exterior shut-off switch.

Just looked at the wiring at the light switch, and found the 2 red wires. Have just cut the large one, & will see how long the batteries last.

Have I mentioned that I love this forum!?

[Herk7769]

Normally, posts with links to "competing forums" are not approved; however since this information and tip (with photos) is so awesome I find I can not see the link when looking through my "blind eye."

[annamarie]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Dometic Refrigerator User Manual | ManualsOnline.com

here is the new manual.

Note Climate Control page 5.

Hate it when you get bogus info from the factory, too.
I kinda expect it from Dealers.

Thanks for the info for the Manuel.

[annamarie]

Originally Posted by traveler2955

If I might suggest a book of pretty good value, here it is: Living On 12 V.
Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power
I'm certain it affords even the most knowledgeable an opportunity to learn more, and even refresh one’s memory.
And, no, I didn’t write it or sell it. But, I’ve got it, read it many times, even practiced a few of the ideas. Furthermore, it cannot hurt your pocketbook much.
Enjoy,
Mike

Thank you.

[annamarie]

Originally Posted by BBB

This Dometic Climate Control Heater battery drain issue just surfaced on my friends first boon-docking camping trip. He woke up to a dead battery and we couldn't figure out why. I told him the same thing happened to me on my first dry outing and I found I had turned on the Climate Control Heater switch not knowing what it was.

This heater is otherwise known as the "heater cable" on the factory schematics and is there to help prevent moisture build up around the doors. His new unit does not have a switch to turn it off but all the factory schematics still show a switch.

I noted on another site that you can disconnect the Climate Control Heater "heater cable" electrical supply wire inside the fridges interior light so that the interior light will still function but the "heater cable" will no longer drain the battery. They both just happen to be on the same electrical feed wire from the controller.

Not sure why they would eliminate the switch but I know from experience that door heater, as I call it, will drain a single battery overnight.

We will be performing this easy modification to his to prevent this parasitic current draw:

New Dometic refrigerator problem - Page 2 - iRV2 Forums

Thanks for the info..

[Herk7769]

Page 8 has the Climate Control Switch location on the new units.

[Punkag]

Killer info here, I just disconnected my wire to try to avoid the drain too.
Dry camped 2 weeks ago and fridge shut down 3 days into it.
Thanks so much everyone who added to the thread!!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Punkag

Killer info here, I just disconnected my wire to try to avoid the drain too.
Dry camped 2 weeks ago and fridge shut down 3 days into it.
Thanks so much everyone who added to the thread!!

3 days out of an OEM battery is awesome battery management.

[Great Lakes]

Just found the specs on the climate control heater for my DM2652. It's rated at 6 watts or 0.5 amp, so disconnecting it will save us 12 amp hours per day. This is a major power savings for us boon dockers!

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by traveler2955

If I might suggest a book of pretty good value, here it is: Living On 12 V.
Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power
I'm certain it affords even the most knowledgeable an opportunity to learn more, and even refresh one’s memory.
And, no, I didn’t write it or sell it. But, I’ve got it, read it many times, even practiced a few of the ideas. Furthermore, it cannot hurt your pocketbook much.
Enjoy,
Mike

Great book, and I am still using my Ample power charger made from their parts.

[gcrabtree55]

This was an awesome thread. I was parked at a hotel while doing some business and the battery kept failing every 12-15 hours. I looked this info up, found the larger red wire in the frig lamp housing. Cut it and taped the ends. The battery is holding at 2/3 charge for the last ten hours. Thanks for the tip!

[camaraderie]

Excellent! Just saved me a lot of hunting for phantom loads and dead batteries.

[Herk7769]

There might have been a switch you should turn off when on battery.

[swj]

Had same issue with FRiver trailer draining battery. RV Tech found where FRiver never put a ground wire for converter/junction box. Batteries would never fully charge when hooked to shore power and/or generators. New ground wire put on and now batteries will fully charge. Fully charged batteries solve a lot of problems.

[tomkatb]

The blinking led lights in an tv are borderline worthless.

Four lights only means the converter is charging at over 13.5 volts or so. Nothing else.

If boondocking is in your plan you need a battery monitor.

You have 70 ah of power available. My assumption is you would use most of that day one.

Thus, you are flying while blind with half a tank.

Maybe, two SOK 205 ah lithium batteries might fit somewhere. They have a built in battery monitor. That gives you about 375 ah. Should last four or five days.

We carry a Honda generator for long trips. Recharge every 3-4 days.

$3,000.

Modern trailers are high energy users unlike the past! We use about 100 ah per day because of the cpap. Also the furnace is a big user.

Study up. That switch is not the total problem!

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

The blinking led lights in an tv are borderline worthless.

Four lights only means the converter is charging at over 13.5 volts or so. Nothing else.

If boondocking is in your plan you need a battery monitor.

You have 70 ah of power available. My assumption is you would use most of that day one.

Thus, you are flying while blind with half a tank.

Maybe, two SOK 205 ah lithium batteries might fit somewhere. They have a built in battery monitor. That gives you about 375 ah. Should last four or five days.

We carry a Honda generator for long trips. Recharge every 3-4 days.

$3,000.

Modern trailers are high energy users unlike the past! We use about 100 ah per day because of the cpap. Also the furnace is a big user.

Study up. That switch is not the total problem!

Good info but you do realize this is an old thread started in 2012

[PhilFromMaine]

Originally Posted by Skelshy

Note I read this here: The RV Battery Charging Puzzle « HandyBob's Blog just not sure where to start at all

Thursday night plugged the trailer into shore power at home. Fri around 5pm disconnected and it showed a full charge (4 lights). Note I might have looked while it was still connected. Looks like it might always show 4 lights when it is charging.

Towed the trailer 100 mi for an two night, no hookup stay. Very light use of lights, pump, ran the furnace maybe 5 minutes in the morning. We were literally out all day and didn't spend much time in the trailer.

A real battery monitor is a good start. Think about getting some solar

Sat 10pm we were out out. Lights dim, pump erratic.

I have a 2012 Surveyor Sport 189 with two 70AH batteries. Where do I start, with a battery monitor?

This sounds about right to me. 140 AH divided by 36 equals 3.88 amps per hour. With the items listed elsewhere in usage, that is what you should expect.

With any battery system, you obviously need to be putting watts back into the battery if you want to prolong your camping. Will solar work for you where you camp? A battery monitor is a good start.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

Good info but you do realize this is an old thread started in 2012

Details, details!!