Originally Posted by RONXS69
In this case the converter has an output rating of 65 amps. Generally they are designed to output a certain percentage of their list rating (continuous duty cycle) before they overheat and shut down. Electric motors such as water pumps, fridge compressors, A/C units, etc. require, in many cases 1 1/2 - 2 times more amperage to get them started then to keep them running. The converter cannot provide that much amperage and this is where the battery comes into play. Good batteries are capable of providing 700 - 900 surge amps and 50 - 100 continuous amps for a longer period of time before they need to be charged. The converter's job is to keep the battery(s) charged while providing some power to the appliances.
Oh, my. Where to begin...
True: Slide and 5th Wheel landing gear motors can pull close to 25 amps when running. If you routinely (as I do sometimes) run both slides out at the same time, you could trip the converter (mine is 55 amp rated) offline. Not a problem for me since with my battery monitor I can see the batteries picking up anywhere from 25 to 30 amps of that load.
True: Motors running "hard to start" items like compressors, pumps, slide motors, etc, use more juice to get them moving than to keep them moving.
Not so true: The converter has nothing do with the air conditioner (AC only) or fridge "compressor" (does not have one).
The converter certainly can provide it's full rated amps with no problem. It can and does charge the batteries and run all the DC appliances and lighting at the same time up to its full rated output.
It will not shut down unless:
1) you demand more amps than it can safely provide (see number 2)
2) It "detects" a short circuit in your battery. This can happen if the battery is DEAD (zero volts). The massive demand for amps is "read" by the converter as a short and it shuts down.
Yes; you can run the converter without a battery (not a dead or shorted one; see above). Nowhere in the manual is this prohibited.