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Old 05-15-2019, 12:05 PM   #1
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Question Battery leaking and boiling

Hi everyone,
Hi have a 2014 Palomino Soral Hybrid camping trailer. I've replace the Inverter twice.
Last winter, I remove the battery and keep it inside my home safely and on some piece of wood fully charged. Last week I fully charge the battery before installing it on the trailer.

A day, after, the battery was boiling, leeking, and smeling very bad.

So I guess the battery or Inverter is defective.

The inverter was 16V without any charge on it. Maybe less if it's plugged to a battery.

I though the inverter will decrease voltage/AMP (if needed) and keep it in a maintenance mode.

How to test the inverter if it's charging ok and if it goes to maintenance mode?

My inverter is : WFCO WF8955MBA 55 Amps Main Board Assembly Replacement Unit bought on Amazon in 2017.
Battery is a deep cycle Marine and it's a 2017 also.

Any advice will be good.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:30 PM   #2
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You have a WFCO CONverter, not an INverter.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:37 PM   #3
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Oups ! Thanks yes a converter.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:46 PM   #4
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The Convertor sounds like it not reducing charge and is stuck in bulk charge. This could be caused by a bad cell in the battery or could be a failure in the convertor.
Many people replace wifco with a Progressive Dynamics which is a higher quality convertor. The battery can be tested at most automotive parts stores to see if it is bad.
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:05 PM   #5
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Before throwing parts and money at this, have the battery tested.

Boiling can be caused by a dead, bad, shorted, cell and your converter is trying to charge a now 11 volt battery with voltage for a 13.2 volt battery (6 cells @2.2volt per). The battery will draw too much current which in turn can cause Converters to fail.

First Step, isolate the converter from battery Turn on some 12v accessories like lights, fans, etc and check voltage at Converter. Shouldn't be more than 13.5-14.5 volts (make sure your meter is accurate too).


If you have a battery hydrometer check specific gravity for each cell. If this varies more than 50 points between cells (most good cells will read 1.275-1.280 so the lowest should not read less than 1.225 -1.230 as an example).

If you find a bad cell or two, battery replacement time.

If you need to replace your Converter consider replacing the Converter section with a Progressive Dynamic's "4600 Series" unit that will fit right in where the WFCO Converter unit comes out.

If you just want another WFCO 8955 Converter section, send me a PM. I have one I removed after only a couple months of service that I'll accept an offer on. Worked fine when I removed it and replaced with a PD9260
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:27 PM   #6
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I'll have the battery test in 2 hours.
thanks
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:15 PM   #7
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OK I have tested to converter like the 1st step : My voltage is 17.5V and my meter is accurate. I try unloaded and loaded with fridge, fan, lights on. Must have some electronic that has blowned.

Does the PD9260 will fit where's my converter under the fuse boxe?
I'm ready to buy another converter. WFCO seem to cheep or fragile.





Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
Before throwing parts and money at this, have the battery tested.

First Step, isolate the converter from battery Turn on some 12v accessories like lights, fans, etc and check voltage at Converter. Shouldn't be more than 13.5-14.5 volts (make sure your meter is accurate too).


If you need to replace your Converter consider replacing the Converter section with a Progressive Dynamic's "4600 Series" unit that will fit right in where the WFCO Converter unit comes out.

If you just want another WFCO 8955 Converter section, send me a PM. I have one I removed after only a couple months of service that I'll accept an offer on. Worked fine when I removed it and replaced with a PD9260
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:11 PM   #8
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:12 PM   #9
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The battery was almost empty. I fill it up with distilled water.
Will charge it and see the result.

Any way, I bought a bigger deep cycle because I'm often on fews days without shore power. That way I might have heating for a longer period.

As for the Converter, I'll buy a PD9260 or PD4655. I know the last one will fit but not sure about the 1st one. Anyone know? I cant find anything so far.


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I'll have the battery test in 2 hours.
thanks
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:32 PM   #10
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The battery was almost empty. I fill it up with distilled water.
Will charge it and see the result.

Any way, I bought a bigger deep cycle because I'm often on fews days without shore power. That way I might have heating for a longer period.

As for the Converter, I'll buy a PD9260 or PD4655. I know the last one will fit but not sure about the 1st one. Anyone know? I cant find anything so far.

The PD 4655 is a direct fit to your WFCO power center.

If you get the PD9260 it will also fit but you'll need to remove some plastic "fins in the cover and other places that keep it from sliding in to the compartment all the way. Easier change with the "4655".

If you have room and want to run some Romex for 120 volt AC, the PD 9260 is a "Floor Mount" and can be installed as close as possible to the batteries. Run the largest wire that will fit the lugs (#2 I believe) to the batteries. You will need to run the Romex from the Breaker that used to feed your converter (15 amp) as the converter will use 1,000 watts when running wide open.


If you do that the batteries will charge as fast as possible. Just leave the existing wire from battery to distribution panel (it should connect to the bottom of the 12v fuse board) as it will provide enough power for the RV.
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:35 PM   #11
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The PD 4655 is a direct fit to your WFCO power center.

If you get the PD9260 it will also fit but you'll need to remove some plastic "fins in the cover and other places that keep it from sliding in to the compartment all the way. Easier change with the "4655".

If you have room and want to run some Romex for 120 volt AC, the PD 9260 is a "Floor Mount" and can be installed as close as possible to the batteries. Run the largest wire that will fit the lugs (#2 I believe) to the batteries. You will need to run the Romex from the Breaker that used to feed your converter (15 amp) as the converter will use 1,000 watts when running wide open.


If you do that the batteries will charge as fast as possible. Just leave the existing wire from battery to distribution panel (it should connect to the bottom of the 12v fuse board) as it will provide enough power for the RV.
X2 on all of this. Best to have the converter as close to the batteries as possible.





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The battery was almost empty. I fill it up with distilled water.
Will charge it and see the result.
BTW, if you ever let the battery plates get exposed, the battery is toast.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:04 PM   #12
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X2 on all of this. Best to have the converter as close to the batteries as possible.






BTW, if you ever let the battery plates get exposed, the battery is toast.


X? If you smell sulfur it is toast AND dangerous. Unplug shore power and turn off all you can on 12v system. Remove without sparking. Handle carefully. Best option if you can I’d unplug SP and let cool overnight before removing it. Keep your eyes away(think safety/sunglasses) and don’t bang around. Not trying to scare you, but if you ever saw one explode you would already understand. A dead or bad battery will explode.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:07 PM   #13
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Just a note. I had a guy want me to test a battery on a Mack one time. I went out and he pointed the one in suspect...the top was gone!!! I said the top is gone...I ain’t testing it. (Thinking to myself ...idiot)

It was a trash truck they are about the tightest customers.
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:33 AM   #14
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Best Converter has the PD 4655 for $20 less than Amazon. You pay shipping but are supporting an independent (former military) business. Randy is great to deal with.

I have a remote pendant that you are welcome to. It's been sitting around the house for awhile and I have no use for it any longer.

PD4655V 55 Amp Converter Upgrade, Optional Remote Pendant
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:04 AM   #15
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Pretty easy now that the cells are filled.

Plug in shore power. The converter should put out 14+ volts. After a while you should see the voltage ramp down. On ours the cooling fan only runs at the maximum charge rate. A BM2 voltmeter Bluetooth, Amazon $35: device installs in minutes so with your phone you can check your battery easily. Also it records data. Your battery should never go below 12 volts. An installed voltmeter is necessary to camp without shore power.

If it is over 14 likely the converter or battery is toast. If you are using the third it is likely ok.

A hydrometer at Autozone is $10.

Then buy a new battery or converter. If they fit, two Costco six volt gc2 batteries are $93 each. They take more abuse. But, are larger and heavier.
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:24 AM   #16
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Best Converter has the PD 4655 for $20 less than Amazon. You pay shipping but are supporting an independent (former military) business. Randy is great to deal with.

I'll second support for Best and Randy. I've upgraded my converter in my old Rage'n and then added inverter and transfer switch to the Wildcat through Randy and both were without a hitch. He knows his stuff and won't sell you something you don't need. Great guy.
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Old 05-17-2019, 12:06 AM   #17
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Battery leaking

Don't mess around with all that testing everyone is saying to do get rid of your battery it is regarding get rid of it. It has nothing to do with the converter
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:54 AM   #18
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Don't mess around with all that testing everyone is saying to do get rid of your battery it is regarding get rid of it. It has nothing to do with the converter
Agree
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:08 AM   #19
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Don't mess around with all that testing everyone is saying to do get rid of your battery it is regarding get rid of it. It has nothing to do with the converter
Might be a good idea to check the converter as it may have been the cause. If it doesn't ramp down voltage as battery reaches full charge it'll boil the battery dry.
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Might be a good idea to check the converter as it may have been the cause. If it doesn't ramp down voltage as battery reaches full charge it'll boil the battery dry.
Agreed. If the water boiled to get it that low, the converter could have easily been the cause. You never just replace a battery without testing the charging system at the same time. That's just common sense.
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