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Old 05-31-2015, 11:00 AM   #11
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Hello Forum,
I have a 2011 Sunseeker 3010DS and I have recently installed a Trimetric 2025 battery monitor. I am getting voltage readings from the meter that are fairly accurate. However, I am not receiving any amp readings. Has anyone installed such a device or similar device and gotten it to work properly? Is there a wiring diagram that would show which wires go where inside the RV? I am running the meter partially thru the battery cutoff switch so it isn't always on, I don't know if this is right.

any assistance would be very helpful.
regards,
bfrtech
I have one and can get amp readings, if I place it in that position. Since I have a popup with LEDs and the fridge runs on propane (when no hookup) the only large amp draw I have is the furnace, so I basically monitor the voltage readings.
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Old 05-31-2015, 03:28 PM   #12
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The Shunt is critical to measure amps without destroying the computer in the monitor. It reduces amps to milliamps which is all the monitor can handle.

Also make sure the pairs are twisted as shown in the instructions.
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfrtech View Post
Hello Forum,
I have a 2011 Sunseeker 3010DS and I have recently installed a Trimetric 2025 battery monitor. I am getting voltage readings from the meter that are fairly accurate. However, I am not receiving any amp readings. Has anyone installed such a device or similar device and gotten it to work properly? Is there a wiring diagram that would show which wires go where inside the RV? I am running the meter partially thru the battery cutoff switch so it isn't always on, I don't know if this is right.

any assistance would be very helpful.
regards,
bfrtech
I wired my Trimetric 2020 to always be on. I can turn the display off but the flow of power in/out is still measured. I followed the directions and used the 100A shunt.
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:14 PM   #14
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Here is how mine is installed:

Just make sure your solar charge controller has a blocking diode in the output and put the battery switch to both to solar charge.
I have the 2030RV trimetric and when I disconnect and re-connect the battery I lose my readings except for the batt voltage. I haven't had time to really troubleshoot properly, too busy with yardwork and garden!! In my setup I have 2 - 6 volt GC batteries installed in the cargo area in a batt box and vented and monitored by the trimetric. I also have the original 12 volt battery with a battery selector switch which I can select batt 1 or 2 or both and off. I monitor this batt (voltage only) with second batt option on the trimetric. My 1000 watt psw inverter is wired directly to the 12 volt DC hot bus. The inverter powers my entertainment system thru a 3 way switch when boondocking, 1 feed from the inverter and the 2nd feed comes from the AC distribution panel thru the breaker, works very well! When I get my solar set up I will feed the power to the 12 volt DC hot bus which will allow me to select which batt I want charged. The only drawback here is to not forget to have the batt selector on 1 of the batteries when under tow or else no emerg brakes. To circumvent that from happening I intend to wire the emerg brake circuit directly to the 12 volt battery. Herk your system diagram looks pretty neat ,but inverter 1000kw?
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:24 AM   #15
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I wired my Trimetric 2020 to always be on. I can turn the display off but the flow of power in/out is still measured. I followed the directions and used the 100A shunt.
The directions state to use a 100 AMP OR 500 Amp Shunt, if needed; and you DO need the 500 amp shunt.

Even without an inverter it is likely you will momentarily demand more than 100 amps from your batteries. WITH an inverter is a certainty.
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:49 AM   #16
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Herk your system diagram looks pretty neat ,but inverter 1000kw?
Ouch! I need to change that!

Yes it is a 1000 Watt inverter. If I am using all of it that is 91 amps from the battery. Since my battery bank is only two 75AH batteries (150 AH total) I don't have the battery capacity to use even that much inverter.
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:33 PM   #17
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The directions state to use a 100 AMP OR 500 Amp Shunt, if needed; and you DO need the 500 amp shunt.

Even without an inverter it is likely you will momentarily demand more than 100 amps from your batteries. WITH an inverter is a certainty.
My install was in a 2004 5th wheel with a battery bank of (2) Interstate golf cart batteries, 232Ah total. I also had a 400 watt PSW Inverter for the computer and entertainment center. The 100 amp shunt worked just fine for 7 years of use, 1,400 sleeping nights. We full timed for 1 year, and wintered in Florida every other year. Most use was with hookups, but we also did some boondocking. A 60 amp flow was the most I ever saw, and that was a max charge from a PD9160 charger/converter initially charging low batteries.

If you plan to power one or more high draw appliances (micro, hair dryer, etc.) with a larger inverter, a 500A shunt would likely be called for.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:21 PM   #18
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I believe the data you program is held in an ePROM. ................................ holding the reset button for 3 seconds or so.
You are absolutely correct, the initial programmed data was still stored in the EPROM after I re-installed the battery, you gotta love that little device.
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:14 PM   #19
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Happy to hear the 100 is working fine for you.

The 500 was only a few dollars more and as long as you tell the computer which one you are using, it does not matter.
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Old 07-31-2015, 04:50 PM   #20
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30 Amp Solera, Use 100 or 500 Amp Shunt

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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
The Shunt is critical to measure amps without destroying the computer in the monitor. It reduces amps to milliamps which is all the monitor can handle.

Also make sure the pairs are twisted as shown in the instructions.
Herk, which do you recommend, the 100amp shunt or the 500Amp?
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