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Old 05-21-2018, 12:02 PM   #1
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Battery not powering trailer..but slides work??

During a lengthy power outage, we, of course, relied on the battery...which we thought was fully charged - Not!! Following very chilly night (+2 C) swamp out with new fully charged battery. Still no lights, nothing except the slides will still go in and out? Is it the panel?? Checked fuses on the converter panel and all seems to be okay. Any suggestions as to where to start problem solving will be welcomed. Thanks for whatever wisdom out there in this community of Rv'ers
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:27 PM   #2
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First though is that you may have blown a fuse on your converter when you swamp<sic> out the battery. Check the fuses on the back of your converter where the battery cables enter. The slides probably work off their own circuit and are uneffected. Hope u find the malfunction.
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:29 PM   #3
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Always start with a multimeter. You don't have to spend $100s on a Fluke. You can get a cheap DMM for $20-40. Get one and carry it with you. Once you have that, measure your battery's voltage. This will tell you the health ... a 12V battery has a nonintuitive health rating (good isn't 12V and bad isn't 0V).

If other appliances run off of the battery, do they run at full speed? That is, does the slide, for example, operate with the same speed and power as when plugged into shore power? If so, then it would empirically suggest the battery is OK. Still would be great to have the data from a DMM.

Are your lights switched? 90% of my interior lights are tied to the main panel and must be switched on -- no lights work until this is switched on. The light over my dinette (and one other, I think) is rogue and operates on its own integrated switch and will operate even if the main switch is off.

The lights over my bed are on a completely different switch next to my bed -- the main switch must be on and this local switch must be on for the lights to work. On previous years of my floorplan, this switch was hidden under the ward next to the Murphy bed ... there were stories of dealerships completely dismantling the wiring to "fix" the broken lights that would never come on. So, to make a short story very long, make sure that your lights aren't tied to a switch or two.
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:39 PM   #4
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Another question for Duckogram

Saw on the converter where battery cables attach to front. Beside those there are 2 30 amp fuses...below that are the various fuses for individual rv lights, tv,fridge etc. I checked the 30 amp fuses and they appear fine?? In your post, you mention the back of the converter panel where battery cables enter. Would these be what I have described above? Don't know how we would could access the back of converter unless removing whole unit. Thanks once again for your wisdom
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:47 PM   #5
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If the fuses on the front are labled “reverse polarity” then that is what you were looking for. AC/DC distribution panels, the ones with breakers for the 120v side and fuses for the 12v side do have the fuses on the front. Deck mounted converters have them on the back. I don’t know what you have in your Roo. I do suggest that you use a tester or a meter to find out if electronics are working or not. Looking at a fuse cannot always tell you if its good or bad. I also suggest you post some pics. One of your battery compartment with surrounding components and one of the power distribution panel (door open).
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:57 PM   #6
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this may be overly simply on my part but are you sure you have the battery wired into the rig the correct way. Positive to Positive neg to neg
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Old 05-22-2018, 03:02 PM   #7
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Check your battery disconnect switch.
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Old 05-22-2018, 03:14 PM   #8
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Check the resettable breaker under the tongue. It has a small switch on the end to reset it. See photo.
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:43 PM   #9
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One more thing to check.

Have you checked if your GFCI has tripped. On some units if this trips, almost everything will not work.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garymhacker View Post
Have you checked if your GFCI has tripped. On some units if this trips, almost everything will not work.
The subject is battery power. GFCI is 120v. But good thought and welcome to the FRF
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