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Old 07-01-2014, 09:01 PM   #11
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Thanks @SKnight. I'm assuming I should have a fuse between the positive lead of the two batteries (in addition to the poistive lead comign into the battery bank) to disconnect when not in use/not charging so they don't constantly charge/balance each other out?
Actually if the second battery is up there you want it to balance out and act as one big battery. You could add a fuse between the batteries but I've never seen it done.

The disconnect goes between the camper and the battery pack.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:20 PM   #12
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Three final questions:

(1) what guage wire should I use? 10 guage is used from the tow vehicle all the way back to the camper's AC/DC converter, so I'm thinkingi that matching that will be sufficient.

(2) How do I get exact equal lengths of the leads coming to the battery without knowing/measuring the exact lengths of the positive/negative wires that go into the camper? I can get them pretty darn close to the point I tie into the main wiring, and maybe I'm overcomplicating this, but couldn't there be wire hidden inside between either the charging lead or a device drawing power that makes the negative longer than the posititve (or vice versa)

(3) are you saying that I should never disconnect the two batteries (like with a fuse) but let them constantly balance each other out / remain connected? And instead only disconnect the positive lead going into the first battery when not in use (ie. to keep CO detector from draining batteries)?
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:56 PM   #13
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1. If you're referring to the battery line that feeds the unit, 10G will be fine in general, it really depends on the length of your run. There's a chart below, 10G is good up to 10A at 28', so unless your converter/distribution center is on the rear bumper, you're fine.

2. While truly equal leads are best, the entire system doesn't need it. You want equal length leads between the batteries so that they stay balanced. The ground is going to tie into the frame fairly close to the batteries, the positive is going to run to wherever the distribution center is. After the batteries equal lengths aren't as critical.

3. Unless you're going to A; run off one battery, then the other or B; leave one battery at home to save weight, yes. Just tie them together and leave them. That way they're always ready to go, you won't have one that got low dragging on one that was in good shape.

You can disconnect either lead to relieve parasitic draw, most folks put the switch on the positive side but if it's easier to cut the negative side then you can place it there. Just place it between the cable actually going to the camper. One click, or remove one nut, and you're golden.

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Old 07-02-2014, 07:57 PM   #14
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I have a Dual Battery setup and I use them both. they are good for about 2 1/2 to 3 days on a full charge. the weight saving does not equal the confidence of the extra power.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:05 PM   #15
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Here is how mine is wired. It has a battery monitor system installed, an inverter, and is wired to take a charge from a portable solar panel.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:21 PM   #16
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Herk, I have been thinking about going with the two battery setup. I currently am switching from one to the other (not matched batteries). When I get matched batteries, I am wondering about the converter handling the charging with the dual battery load. I have a 80A converter, so am thinking it will be fine. Your thoughts?


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Old 07-20-2014, 09:21 PM   #17
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Herk, I have been thinking about going with the two battery setup. I currently am switching from one to the other (not matched batteries). When I get matched batteries, I am wondering about the converter handling the charging with the dual battery load. I have a 80A converter, so am thinking it will be fine. Your thoughts?


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My 55 amp converter handles my 150 AH bank just fine.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:41 PM   #18
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Thanks
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