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Old 02-18-2010, 09:57 PM   #11
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One other note, never fill a discharged battery to full. The electrolyte actually increases as the battery is charged. There needs to be enough to cover the plates before charging, but not necessarily to the full mark. Since you did this, remove the caps, and place a rag over the holes to soak up any water that may overflow. Be sure to toss the rag, and clean the battery box if it does overflow as this stuff is acid.
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:55 PM   #12
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One more thing, if you remove the battery, be sure you do not store it on concrete, always set it on a block of wood or something between the battery and concrete, I don't understand the theory, but I know concrete kills batteries.
This is not true anymore. Modern batteries will not go bad or be killed by leaving them on concrete.

Article here

Discussion about it here.

Common myths about batteries here.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:13 AM   #13
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I know this discussion covers a lot, especially for a "new guy" but
I'm gonna add one more thing to consider.

I've found that the batteries in both my current and previous
trailers would run down while in storage.
This discharge rate was much faster than one would normally
expect for a lead acid battery that was not in use.
I found that there were items in the trailer including the
onboard power center itself that were slowly but surely sucking
the juice out of my batteries.
Even if I pulled fuses to LP detectors and other things onboard
the battery was still going down WAY too fast. I found the
powercenter charger was the biggest culprit.
The only way I could prevent this was to pull both main fuses
that connect the power center to the batteries.
Now the batteries stay charged when in storage.
(Not counting normal internal discharging)

I quickly got tired of getting down on my hands and knees
to pull out and later replace the fuses so I added a battery disconnect
switch. I think they should be standard equipment in a new
trailer but they aren't.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:31 AM   #14
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Question, My 2006 Rockwood came with a battery disconnect, If I flip the switch to off will this completely disconnect the battery from any draw from the camper? The reason I am asking is because there has never been a time where my camper has ever been unplugged from an ac out let so I have never had a dead battery.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:24 AM   #15
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This is my battery disconnect, the handle was red at one time.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:26 AM   #16
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Question, My 2006 Rockwood came with a battery disconnect, If I flip the switch to off will this completely disconnect the battery from any draw from the camper? The reason I am asking is because there has never been a time where my camper has ever been unplugged from an ac out let so I have never had a dead battery.
No it won't. The LP gas detectors are wired directly to the batteries on all RVs so they will still draw power. And, although not a issue on 5ers or trailers, on RVs with power steps, those too are wired directly to the batteries. Beyond that I don't know what else (or haven't found yet) what else may be still connected. The disconnect will remove most loads and stop the batteries from charging. As the chargers on most rigs are not all that good unless you have a 3 stage, I keep ours disconnected while hooked up to power in our garage unless we are a day or so away from heading out dry camping. Then I will connect the batteries so they can charge. I will also turn on the switch once every two weeks or so for a couple of days to top off the charge.

This is the major reason why I will soon be installing the Trimetric 2025 battery amp meter. With that I will be able to see what phantom loads are on the batteries in storage as well as keep things under control while dry camping.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:51 AM   #17
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I always just totally disconnect my battery and hook up a Battery Tender to it. Fool proof if you have power available. Always a 100% charge, anti-sulfation, and never boils out the battery. Most of my batteries on lawnmower, tractors, motorcycle, etc last at least 7 years and I've had some go for 10 years using this product. AND, I never worry about whether something is going to start after sitting for extended periods. On my vehicles, I don't even bother to disconnect the battery. Deep Cycle on my trailer will be starting its 5th year this summer and is holding up very well.
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:15 AM   #18
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No it won't. The LP gas detectors are wired directly to the batteries on all RVs so they will still draw power. And, although not a issue on 5ers or trailers, on RVs with power steps, those too are wired directly to the batteries. Beyond that I don't know what else (or haven't found yet) what else may be still connected. The disconnect will remove most loads and stop the batteries from charging. As the chargers on most rigs are not all that good unless you have a 3 stage, I keep ours disconnected while hooked up to power in our garage unless we are a day or so away from heading out dry camping. Then I will connect the batteries so they can charge. I will also turn on the switch once every two weeks or so for a couple of days to top off the charge.

This is the major reason why I will soon be installing the Trimetric 2025 battery amp meter. With that I will be able to see what phantom loads are on the batteries in storage as well as keep things under control while dry camping.
Thanks for the info. With the LP detector still powered up thats a good thing, if the camper is in storage and a leak develops from the LP system this would let someone know that there is some thing wrong before they open the door to the camper with a cigarette hanging out of there mouth....
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:52 AM   #19
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Thanks for the info. With the LP detector still powered up thats a good thing, if the camper is in storage and a leak develops from the LP system this would let someone know that there is some thing wrong before they open the door to the camper with a cigarette hanging out of there mouth....
More importantly the detector will close the valve at the tank and stop the leak
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:59 AM   #20
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More importantly the detector will close the valve at the tank and stop the leak
NWJeeper, does it work like that on travel trailers with removalable tanks? I don't see anything on my system to indicate that would happen.....no wires or anything going to the regulator.

Maybe just on MHs with built-in tanks?
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