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Old 07-08-2018, 05:04 PM   #101
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No I do not work for Micro Air, Yes the 2000 will run the 13-15000 AC units as I described, The Easy Start slowly starts the compressor in 5amp increments not hitting the generator hard like normal. Again I use the predator 3500 and run both AC units with Easy Start units on each.
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Old 07-09-2018, 09:49 PM   #102
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when talking to campground generator owners I've found that the level of noise, "quietness" if you will, is directly proportional to if it is your unit or if you are the one that has to listen to it.

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Old 07-10-2018, 06:56 AM   #103
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when not in a RV park but people are still nearby, I point my gen exhaust away from people and lean a small sheet of plywood on the gen separating us to help to deselect some of the noise. I also have a heavy RV extension cord attach to my trailers power cord putting the Gen about 60 feet away.
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Old 07-14-2018, 01:28 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sajohnson View Post
I'm curious about this. Our rig has a generator (a QD 3200) so I haven't yet had a reason to use portable inverter generators, but I do like the idea of something quieter.

I understand that a single 2KW generator will not start a rooftop A/C unit, but that two 2KW units together will.

What I'm not clear on is how a single 2KW generator can continue to run the A/C unit with it cycling off and on.

Or did you mean a single 2KW unit could run the A/C as long as remains running continuously?
I added a start capacitor and start delay relay to my 13.5K BTU AC and my Honda EU2000i starts and runs it. I do have to turn off all other AC loads but I'm satisfied. My use is infrequent. I prefer to camp where I don't need AC.

If I had a 15K BTU I'd buy an EasyStart soft starter before I'd buy an additional generator to pair with the one I have. If that didn't work (evidence suggests that it will) I'd have to ask myself why I'm camping where it's that hot, without shore power.
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:33 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
I added a start capacitor and start delay relay to my 13.5K BTU AC and my Honda EU2000i starts and runs it. I do have to turn off all other AC loads but I'm satisfied. My use is infrequent. I prefer to camp where I don't need AC.

If I had a 15K BTU I'd buy an EasyStart soft starter before I'd buy an additional generator to pair with the one I have. If that didn't work (evidence suggests that it will) I'd have to ask myself why I'm camping where it's that hot, without shore power.
That all makes sense to me.

Like you, we do our best to avoid areas that are hot & humid. We've had our rig since 2012 and driven about 60,000 miles. In that time we've probably used the coach A/C between 5-10 times. We don't use the chassis A/C much either.

I'm a huge fan of air conditioning, but we tend to travel during the "shoulder seasons" in areas where A/C just isn't necessary.

Still, despite our best efforts, sometimes we all get stuck in a situation where A/C is required.

Then there are people who must travel during the peak season (summer break for kids, vacation restrictions, etc), when it can be uncomfortable almost everywhere, and dangerously hot in some places. Many of the most popular national parks are in areas that routinely see triple-digit heat.

Luckily, most (but definitely not all) national park campgrounds have shore power, and there are usually private campgrounds with hookups nearby, but finding a spot during the summer can be very difficult (and that is only going to get worse). So that leaves dry camping and boondocking.

Even during the shoulder season (late spring and early fall) we have found the park campgrounds full, and had to find boondocking spots outside the park. At those times of year, A/C typically isn't required, but it almost certainly would be in July/August.

BTW -- I have this: "SUPCO SPP6 Relay/Capacitor Hard Start Kit":
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has good reviews. I haven't installed it yet because a) our 13.5Kbtu A/C starts and runs fine (shore or gen power), and b) we don't use it much. I bought the SPP6 to replace the OE start cap if/when it fails, but it is designed to be connected in parallel with the stock cap so I may go ahead and do that.

For <$10 it seems like a good solution for anyone who is having problems starting an A/C unit.
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