ok guys, i decided to dig into this a little more... any help/opinions are appreciated. one question i do have before i get too indepth with this is....."will the fan on the converter run if the ambient temp inside the camper is fairly warm, even when it is not charging the batteries?" (thermometer showed 93* inside when i got home from work)
- i came home from camping last night. the battery meter inside showed 1/3, a quick check across the two 6v batteries gave me a reading of 10.9 volts.
- plugged into 120v last night at about 6pm. i do use an adapter to drop my 50A cord down to the standard 20A 120v household plug. the reason i mention this is because im not sure if this is slowing down the charging rate of the converter or not. i wouldnt think so because i do not have any trouble with breakers tripping or the extension cord getting warm......but im throwing that fact out there to help with my diagnosis. the ONLY thing running off of 120v ac is the converter and the refrigerator. there is NOTHING to my knowledge drawing off of the 12v system other than clock memory
- peaked inside the camper at a little after 5am this morning (monday) before i went to work. i didnt check the voltage, but the fan on the converter was running.
- got home from work at 4:30pm today, converter fan is still running. i check the voltage across each battery. one is at 6.89v and the other at 6.87 volts. i got 13.8v across the two batteries together. the electrolyte level in each cell is right where it should be. the batteries were not warm to the touch and did not smell as if they were overcharged.
- i manually trip the main 50A breaker on the converter. the cooling fan shuts off.....the voltage across the batteries drops to 13.5v. this tells me the converter is doing SOMETHING...
- i manually turn back on the main 50A breaker, the fan stayed OFF, the battery voltage jumped back up to 13.8v. now, i realize .3v is not much to worry about, but it does prove that something is going on when i open and close the 120v feed to the converter.
- now remember, i said the fan was OFF......and it still is. meanwhile i start pulling the 12v fuses on the converter board to check current draw across each circuit. all checks were done with everything off. just as it would sit when not being used (except the gas detector, fridge, and stereo memory)
all of the lighting circuits - .000-.001 amps
12v aux power (cig lighter) - .000 amps
gas detector - .038 amps
fridge - .071 amps
factory stereo - .095 amps
- as sit scratching my head in curiosity.....the cooling fan turns on
. all the 12v fuses are out, so nothing is drawing current on the 12v side of things. i start manually tripping 120v ac breakers. i have all of them tripped except the main 50A and a 20A breaker labeled "GFI". as soon as i trip the 20A GFI breaker, the fan turns off. does this circuit supply power to the fan? i have no idea.
ok, i think i checked all of the obvious things. maybe a few of you can scratch your head too....
edit for update - one more meter reading taken after i put all 12v fuses back in and restored everything to normal as it sits in my yard when not in use
- i removed the main oem feed wire going from the + terminal on the battery to the oem distribution block (which im assuming goes into the converter). the current draw here was 1.1 amps.