Converter dead?

[dronning]

New member here.
We just bought a used 2014 Roo 183 (from a dealer 4 hours away). Got it home and plugged it in. Battery went dead in a couple of weeks.

What I have done so far:
Tried battery disconnect switch in both positions for all tests. No lights in camper. Battery dead so I pulled the battery and put it on the charger. Checked power at the disconnected battery connections expecting 12 volts from converter (charging voltage) and got nothing. Pulled all fuses checked for continuity all good.

Have I missed anything? If not I assume the converter is bad.

Converter is a WFCO 8955REC and is cheap enough that I'd just order one and install it myself.

Looking at adding a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C

- Dave

[TheGerman]

One thing your post doesn't say is if the microwave and/or outlets in the trailer work. If not then the converter is not the problem. Also, check the breakers on the AC side.

[cavie]

Do you have power to the converter?

[Gumpster808]

Not sure how yours is setup but last season I lost power other than 12v when plugging in.

Long story short I had bumped the power cord that runs from our converter to the outlet it plugs into. Just enough to cause no power. Must have hit it while coiling the main power cable back into the compartment.

Pushed that back in the outlet and all was good.

[brookstone345sa]

Check the converter itself for fuses, Most converters have them

[boondocking]

Do your interior lights work when plugged in? If they do the converter is OK.

[dronning]

Originally Posted by brookstone345sa

Check the converter itself for fuses, Most converters have them

I guess my next step is to pull the converter and look to see if there is another fuse somewhere else.

I have 110V power at the outlets, shouldn't the 12v lights work even if there is no battery installed?

There is no 12V output from the converter. I tested the wires that I disconnected from the battery for 12v from the converter and got 0 volts. There should be charging voltage. I tried the battery cut off in both positions. I also checked for 12v output at the converter leads that go to the 12v fuse panel and got 0v

All breakers and fuses visible on the panel tested OK. Checked for loose wires this morning found none.

Found a manual for the converter online. "If all the fuses and AC voltage are good but the converter 12v output still reads zero volts then the converter is not functioning properly."

If I don’t find a fuse behind the converter I’ll order a new one.

Thanks for your help
Dave

[ependydad]

First make sure your converter is getting 110v power. It takes in 110v power and outputs 12v power.

If the converter is getting power but not outputting 12v power, then it's possibly a fuse problem or dead converter.

If you do replace the converter, upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics one. The WFCO are entry level and there are nicer/better converters out there.

---

As for your other question, "I have 110V power at the outlets, shouldn't the 12v lights work even if there is no battery installed?"

Only if your converter is working. Since it's not outputting 12v, you won't have power to the lights.

[Gumpster808]

Originally Posted by ependydad

First make sure your converter is getting 110v power. It takes in 110v power and outputs 12v power.

If the converter is getting power but not outputting 12v power, then it's possibly a fuse problem or dead converter.

If you do replace the converter, upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics one. The WFCO are entry level and there are nicer/better converters out there.

---

As for your other question, "I have 110V power at the outlets, shouldn't the 12v lights work even if there is no battery installed?"

Only if your converter is working. Since it's not outputting 12v, you won't have power to the lights.

This is what happened to me as stated above. The 110 plug for the converter input had got bumped and was not getting a connection- no 12v in the coach.

[JKVenero]

Troubleshooting charts | wfcoelectronics.com

[dronning]

Originally Posted by JKVenero

Troubleshooting charts | wfcoelectronics.com

THANKS!, I had pretty much already followed the same path outlined in flow chart, it reconfirms my conclusion - the converter needs to be replaced.

- Dave

[gectisme]

Originally Posted by dronning

THANKS!, I had pretty much already followed the same path outlined in flow chart, it reconfirms my conclusion - the converter needs to be replaced.



- Dave

There is a “mislead” in the TS Flow Chart. It only asks if you have 120vac connected to the RV. If you haven’t, as ependydad stated, make sure you have 120vac right on/at the converter. On our TT there is a breaker and wiring between the main power buss and Converter.

[dronning]

Originally Posted by gectisme

There is a “mislead” in the TS Flow Chart. It only asks if you have 120vac connected to the RV. If you haven’t, as ependydad stated, make sure you have 120vac right on/at the converter. On our TT there is a breaker and wiring between the main power buss and Converter.

All voltages measured with a multi meter.

As stated earlier there is 110v at all outlets and at the converter, so the converter is getting power, it was the first thing I checked. With the battery removed and testing between VCC lug and the neg lug there no 12v present. All fuses were both visually inspected and tested for continuity.

I pulled the converter and will bench test it to see what component failed.

- Dave

[cavie]

Does the 12v fuse panel have power? Did you check incoming and outgoing power at the converter and not just at the battery. Some converters have a main 12v fuse along with a 120v breaker in the panel.

[gectisme]

Originally Posted by dronning

All voltages measured with a multi meter.



As stated earlier there is 110v at all outlets and at the converter, so the converter is getting power, it was the first thing I checked. With the battery removed and testing between VCC lug and the neg lug there no 12v present. All fuses were both visually inspected and tested for continuity.



I pulled the converter and will bench test it to see what component failed.



- Dave

Cool beans. Our WFCO failed about a year ago, same thing. Had the 120vac right at the input to the main board but no 12vdc right at the output of the main board. It has a 2 year Warranty but replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics, (which also failed recently) ☹️.

The WFCO Main Board does have 1 or 2 soldered in fuses you can check, ours were OK.
[emoji106]

[dronning]

Originally Posted by gectisme

.... It has a 2 year Warranty but replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics, (which also failed recently) ☹️.
[emoji106]

Which model Progressive Dynamics converter?

- Dave

[gectisme]

Originally Posted by dronning

Which model Progressive Dynamics converter?



- Dave

It’s a PD4655MBA, direct replacement for the WFCO 8955.

[Whitaker]

Originally Posted by gectisme

It’s a PD4655MBA, direct replacement for the WFCO 8955.

This being a direct replacement for a wfco 8955 pec converter, does that mean it simply plugs in and will fit the compartment exactly like the wfco 8955 pec?

[dronning]

Originally Posted by Whitaker

This being a direct replacement for a wfco 8955 pec converter, does that mean it simply plugs in and will fit the compartment exactly like the wfco 8955 pec?

Even a direct WFCO replacement doesn't just plug in, you have to remove all the 110v wires from the breakers and ground/neutral lugs. Same with the 12v wires. You need to keep track of what wires went where so you can get all the circuit labeling on the panel correct.

Easy to do just label all the wires before removing and put it back the same way.
- Dave

[Whitaker]

Right, yeah I knew it didn't just plug in but until I searched more I was mainly asking if it would fit in the same location. Thanks