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Old 09-22-2014, 10:57 PM   #1
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Converter question

Hi again everyone. I have a 2004 flagstaff 827BH. I am thinking the converter gave up on me but it is confusing me at the same time. What happened is that everything was working great and I walked by it and noticed a burnt electrical smell. I shut down all the power and pulled the power block out. I noticed some condensation on the breakers and the board for the converter. I replaced the breakers and the outlets went back to working but the lights were dim like a low battery dim and the ac wouldn't even try to kick on nor any function of the ac. I plugged my truck into the pigtail to give it full voltage for the lights so I could better see what I was doing.
Now what confuses me is that with my truck plugged into the pigtail the ac works just fine in every function. I thought the ac only ran off shore power not battery power since it's 120v and not 12v. This doesn't make sense to me so I am hoping someone can help me to understand this! Also hoping someone can confirm for me that my converter is done for. It is a parallax model 7300 55watt converter.
If it is my converter as I suspect it is what is the best converter to replace it with? I want to replace the whole power distribution center along with the converter because the wire that plugs into the board to charge the battery came unsoldered and it was working fine if I pushed the plug back into the board.
Thanks in advance to everyone!


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Old 09-23-2014, 09:11 AM   #2
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Is the camper plugged into shore power?

The AC does "run on AC" BUT many RV models also require a solid 12 volt DC source to power the thermostat. It is not "manufactured" by the AC since it is available in the camper.

So, by plugging into the truck, that 12 volt DC is available to power the thermostat and the AC runs off shore power as designed.

Now, the converter does sound "bad" (not getting the charging voltage to your battery) so it needs to be trouble shot.

A "condensation induced" short could have damaged the converter portion of your power center, but it could have only blown the fuse in the converter.

You need to disconnect your battery (REQUIRED as a bad battery can prevent the converter from powering up) and then measure the voltage at the battery connection terminals at the power center (with no - or minimal - load). That voltage needs to be above 13 volts.

If not the unit is not working. Check the incoming voltage is 120 VAC (otherwise the breaker is bad) and if good, check the on board glass fuse. If both are "good," you will need to buy a new converter for your power center. Parallax is a good one and you should find an inexpensive direct replacement through internet sources.

If you do have 13 or more volts, the power is not getting to the battery and you need to check IT and the inline fuses between that converter and the battery. (There should be two - one within 18 inches of the battery and one close to the metal umbilical connection box under the frame).

This Progressive Dynamics unit is a direct replacement for yours: http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600...placement.html


This website has the kit and the instructions (with photos) so you can decide if it is a project you want to try.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Magnete...-Kit_c_64.html

http://www.bestconverter.com/Magnete...II_ep_8-1.html




Complete power centers are: http://www.rvplus.com/parallax-power...FQQT7AodK2cASg
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:11 AM   #3
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Thank you. Yes my TT is plugged into shore power that's why I was so confused. I will be doing these instructions today and checking everything as mentioned. After I get everything checked I will report back with my findings!


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Old 09-23-2014, 10:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerpa View Post
Thank you. Yes my TT is plugged into shore power that's why I was so confused. I will be doing these instructions today and checking everything as mentioned. After I get everything checked I will report back with my findings!


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As lou suggested if bad I'd definitely replace it with a progressive dynamics.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:29 AM   #5
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In case you are not sure what the "current limiters" look like and how to reset one if tripped:

One short side of the "box" has a small tab on it that will pop out when overloaded. Press on that tab to reset the current limiter if popped.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
In case you are not sure what the "current limiters" look like and how to reset one if tripped:

One short side of the "box" has a small tab on it that will pop out when overloaded. Press on that tab to reset the current limiter if popped.

Thank you very much I had no idea what that was!


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Old 09-23-2014, 09:05 PM   #7
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Well after following all the steps above I have determined that the converter is bad. It's bad timing for it to go out but I can't complain about the life span I got out of it. My TT is ten years old (I've had it for just over a year) and this is the first time it has gone out!


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Old 09-24-2014, 09:15 PM   #8
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I'm glad you figured it out. The replacement should be MUCH improved in caring for your batteries if that is any consolation. It should be sized at NO MORE than 25% of your battery banks amp hour capacity. (i.e. 50 amp charger for 200 amp hour battery bank).
Nothing wrong with bigger...but it won't charge you faster or better on wet cell batteries...just cost you more money.
Second thing to be sure you get is a converter with 3 stage operation AND an Equalization cycle. ...The Progressive Dynamics converters are quite good. I also very much like the IOTA DLS line with their IQ4 smart module... as well built and good values.

The DLS30 is good for single battery setups, The DLS45 for typical dual 12V battery setups and the DLS55 for dual 6 volt or large dual 12V batts (group31). The smart module which is NEEDED is 17 bucks and the chargers run from around 120 to 160 bucks. This is a DIY project that is simple if the existing cables are all in good shape.
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