Could have been electrocuted!

[NXR]

I don't think it's been mentioned but it's the current that kills, not the voltage. I worked with electricity my entire life and am very respectful of it.

0.01 amps (10 milliamps) can be felt. 0.1 amps (one-tenth of an amp) can kill if it runs through the heart. That's usually from one hand, through the chest, and then the other hand for the current path.

When I had to work on a hot circuit for reasons others have noted, one hand was always in a pocket. (Clueless managers would call me lazy until I explained the reason.)

12 volts by itself almost never can deliver enough current through the body to trigger a heart arrhythmia. BUT a 12 volt circuit can deliver enough current to cause metals to melt and disassemble violently so you become collateral damage.

I also was a firefighter/paramedic and an Advanced Cardiac Life Support Instructor. I've been on way too many "crispy critter" calls due to someone taking a shortcut and I do not miss that smell at all.

As an aside, a defibrillator can deliver 50 amps through the heart but the duration is just a few milliseconds, not enough to cause much tissue heating. It's also a specific waveform and not a sine wave.

Go slow, think before doing, get a second opinion and never, never work around energized circuits without someone else near enough to cut the power or at least to call 911.

Ray

[MNtraveler]

The Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester is somewhat of a miracle tool that lets you check for hot wires (or hot RV frame, etc.) without actually touching probes to the wires. Every RV owner should have one -- and remember to use it regularly.

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools...gateway&sr=8-2

[Sfgoble]

Good way to kill a lineman working on power lines too . People don’t understand but a back feed like that goes back to the transformer and comes out as high voltage . The transformer can and will step voltage up just like it steps it down and it will send that voltage down the line and possibly kill someone miles away. Something to think about rather than relying on a transfer switch please unplug from the grid. This is coming from an old lineman I’ve seen it happen ..

[jmsokol]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

The Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester is somewhat of a miracle tool that lets you check for hot wires (or hot RV frame, etc.) without actually touching probes to the wires. Every RV owner should have one -- and remember to use it regularly.

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools...gateway&sr=8-2

And you can use a NCVT to detect an RV hot skin condition. Here’s an update of my original No~Shock~Zone article on how this works: https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electrical-safety-part-4-hot-skin-voltage/

[jkoenig24]

What TORQUE setting did you use when working in your transfer case? It's incredibly EASY to OVER tighten those screws. If you looked carefully, there probably was a data sheet in / on said transfer switch box (or lid) that provided this important information.

[SlowrideHD]

120 inch pounds, but what does that have to do with the load panel-shore power path being reversed from the factory?

Originally Posted by jkoenig24

What TORQUE setting did you use when working in your transfer case? It's incredibly EASY to OVER tighten those screws. If you looked carefully, there probably was a data sheet in / on said transfer switch box (or lid) that provided this important information.

[jkoenig24]

The torque setting has NOTHING to do with a mis-wired transfer box. It has to do with a VERY specific torque SETTING that the manufacturer SPECIFIES. If over (or under) torqued, the connection is more likely to be compromised (road vibration etc). Over torque, in particular, can cause a failure that will require a REPLACEMENT of an expensive transfer switch.


In his RV Electric Class, Mike Sokol mentioned that screws inside of the Transfer Switch Box are often in the range of 25~35 INCH Pounds.
How did you choose / decide on a torque setting of 120 inch pounds?

[garyhopp]

It appears you are powering the transfer switch with 110V. The transfer is looking for 240V and a Neutral. You probably had the 110 on the side of the switch that the relay is not connected to, by swapping as you stated you probably moved the 110 hot to the other terminal and it worked.

If it is your intention to use a 110 volt supply from the generator you will probably have to provide a jumper between the two 110 terminals on the transfer or you will probably find that only 1/2 of the electrical is working in the unit.

The Onan unit will provide 120/240v to the transfer and not need the jumper.

[SlowrideHD]

I didn't use a TORQUE setting AT ALL. Just tightened with my KLIEN screwdriver. I pulled the 120 in/lb number off the TOP of my HEAD just to see HOW you would RESPOND! I got a KICK out of your off topic post and your SHOUTING stress POINTS!!!

Originally Posted by jkoenig24

The torque setting has NOTHING to do with a mis-wired transfer box. It has to do with a VERY specific torque SETTING that the manufacturer SPECIFIES. If over (or under) torqued, the connection is more likely to be compromised (road vibration etc). Over torque, in particular, can cause a failure that will require a REPLACEMENT of an expensive transfer switch.


In his RV Electric Class, Mike Sokol mentioned that screws inside of the Transfer Switch Box are often in the range of 25~35 INCH Pounds.
How did you choose / decide on a torque setting of 120 inch pounds?

[SlowrideHD]

Did you even look at the picture that I posted originally? The transfer switch only requires a hot wire be connected to #4 and #5 position, the jumper wire does that. It does not require 240 volts. I did not have the supply wires in the wrong position since I can easily read the wiring diagram. I explained the original post quite specifically, it's as if you didn't understand it at all. Maybe read it again, "probably" a little slower.

Originally Posted by garyhopp

It appears you are powering the transfer switch with 110V. The transfer is looking for 240V and a Neutral. You probably had the 110 on the side of the switch that the relay is not connected to, by swapping as you stated you probably moved the 110 hot to the other terminal and it worked.

If it is your intention to use a 110 volt supply from the generator you will probably have to provide a jumper between the two 110 terminals on the transfer or you will probably find that only 1/2 of the electrical is working in the unit.

The Onan unit will provide 120/240v to the transfer and not need the jumper.

[dalford]

I never trust the pedestal wiring to be safe. When I first connect at a camp ground I touch the pedestal with the back of my hand. If it is hot, I get a jolt. But if I just grabbed the cover and it was hot I may be lucky if I can let go of it. I do the same for the tv cable connection. No telling what it may be wrapped around...

[AlanSandy]

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

The Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester is somewhat of a miracle tool that lets you check for hot wires (or hot RV frame, etc.) without actually touching probes to the wires. Every RV owner should have one -- and remember to use it regularly.

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools...gateway&sr=8-2

you are missing a very important step. Before you use the Non-Contact tester you better check it on something that you know is hot(has voltage) and then check what you want tested, and again test on something hot after test completed. This is to insure that the tester is working, in fact you should do the same thing when using a meter. This is called the live-dead-live test. After 21 years working in a power plant with 17 as electrician this can save your life.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by AlanSandy

you are missing a very important step. Before you use the Non-Contact tester you better check it on something that you know is hot(has voltage) and then check what you want tested, and again test on something hot after test completed. This is to insure that the tester is working, in fact you should do the same thing when using a meter. This is called the live-dead-live test. After 21 years working in a power plant with 17 as electrician this can save your life.

Even when I'm simply checking continuity on an unpowered low-voltage circuit it doesn't hurt to confirm your instrument is working. When testing continuity, I first cross tester leads to make sure the meter shows near zero ohms. Then I do the test. Then confirm the meter by crossing leads again.