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Old 04-09-2016, 10:36 AM   #31
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Thanks for the kind comments. The lid has 3/4 " closed cell foam. Batteries are AGM. Sealed. They do not move whole underway. Box is totally water tight. No need for drains. Thanks
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:00 AM   #32
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Something I don't know, well a lot I don't know. On the cables, is this correct the smaller the gauge the bigger the cable? Is 4 AWG alright for hook in up batteries? From batteries to charger and inverter will be no more than 2ft


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Yes, the smaller the gauge number the larger the diameter of the wire.

000 is larger than 00 which is larger than 0 which is larger than 1 etc.

You will see other opinions on this but for the draw on an 2000 Watt inverter (the largest DC amp draw you will be likely to see in most campers - 160 amps) that is located within 2 feet of the batteries, #3 is required (with a 5% voltage loss to the inverter - about 0.6 volts - so 12.1 volts from a fully charged battery bank 12.7 volts). For a 1000 Watt inverter at 2 feet (85 amps), you will lose 3% of your voltage (0.35 volts) in 2 feet with #4 wire.

DC Cable Sizing Tool - Wire Size Calculator - MM2 & AWG - solar-wind.co.uk

I always say that the "inter-battery" wiring between 2 6 volt batteries and 2 or more 12 volt batteries should be as large as you can find (and exactly the same length for ground and positive in 12 volt installations) to keep the voltage drop between the batteries as low as possible so they charge/discharge evenly.

You can also use the wire size calculator to determine your voltage drop between the batteries and your converter (TO and FROM) by using this calculator.
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:44 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Yes, the smaller the gauge number the larger the diameter of the wire.

000 is larger than 00 which is larger than 0 which is larger than 1 etc.

You will see other opinions on this but for the draw on an 2000 Watt inverter (the largest DC amp draw you will be likely to see in most campers - 160 amps) that is located within 2 feet of the batteries, #3 is required (with a 5% voltage loss to the inverter - about 0.6 volts - so 12.1 volts from a fully charged battery bank 12.7 volts). For a 1000 Watt inverter at 2 feet (85 amps), you will lose 3% of your voltage (0.35 volts) in 2 feet with #4 wire.

DC Cable Sizing Tool - Wire Size Calculator - MM2 & AWG - solar-wind.co.uk

I always say that the "inter-battery" wiring between 2 6 volt batteries and 2 or more 12 volt batteries should be as large as you can find (and exactly the same length for ground and positive in 12 volt installations) to keep the voltage drop between the batteries as low as possible so they charge/discharge evenly.

You can also use the wire size calculator to determine your voltage drop between the batteries and your converter (TO and FROM) by using this calculator.
I'm sure you realize your calculator is looking for length in "meters" not feet. One meter is approximately 39 inches.
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:12 PM   #34
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I'm sure you realize your calculator is looking for length in "meters" not feet. One meter is approximately 39 inches.


Joke is on me... I jumped on that calculator without realizing it is from the UK.

Thanks for catching that!
It did sound like a lot of voltage loss in such a short run.

Good thing I was not calculating the size of a reentry rocket for a Mars lander ...
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:27 PM   #35
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WolfW...Great post! Thanks for sharing!

Here is a copy of the article from my web site that the Moderators over here won't let me post because in my spare time I make and sell a Bore Guide on the site....Whatever!!!

The wooden battery box I made was temporary. It started to delaminate after only a few months. I wanted to make one out of diamond plate aluminum to match the splash guard on the front of the trailer. But when I went to my metal supplier I found out that the aluminum Iíd need was nearly $200!!

A neighbor of mine stopped by for me to do some welding on his utility trailer. He mounted a diamond plate aluminum truck box in the tongue of the trailer. He says he bought it at a garage sale for $50. I told him if he ever sees another one like it for around that amount to buy it and Iíd pay him back. A few days later he shows up at my house with a near perfect truck cross box he found at another garage sale. He wouldnít let me pay him. He said it was payment for all the welding Iíve done for him over the years. Great neighbor.

This is what I started out with. It was a shame to cut it all up since it was in such great condition.





So sabersaw in hand, I hacked it up and TIG welded it into this:



A few hours of work and I think it came out pretty good!



Moved all the wiring over to the new box.



A few vents on the sides and insulated with 1/2″ closed cell foam.
Very Nicely done!!
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:02 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by spock123 View Post
Something I don't know, well a lot I don't know. On the cables, is this correct the smaller the gauge the bigger the cable? Is 4 AWG alright for hook in up batteries? From batteries to charger and inverter will be no more than 2ft


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S, you should go by the manual for the products you are getting. Wire gauge requirement typically from Inverter to battery such as to produce less than 1% voltage drop. From charger to battery; typically less than 3%. This is for optimum performance and battery life.
WW
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:04 PM   #37
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WolfW...Great post! Thanks for sharing!

Here is a copy of the article from my web site that the Moderators over here won't let me post because in my spare time I make and sell a Bore Guide on the site....Whatever!!!

The wooden battery box I made was temporary. It started to delaminate after only a few months. I wanted to make one out of diamond plate aluminum to match the splash guard on the front of the trailer. But when I went to my metal supplier I found out that the aluminum Iíd need was nearly $200!!

A neighbor of mine stopped by for me to do some welding on his utility trailer. He mounted a diamond plate aluminum truck box in the tongue of the trailer. He says he bought it at a garage sale for $50. I told him if he ever sees another one like it for around that amount to buy it and Iíd pay him back. A few days later he shows up at my house with a near perfect truck cross box he found at another garage sale. He wouldnít let me pay him. He said it was payment for all the welding Iíve done for him over the years. Great neighbor.

This is what I started out with. It was a shame to cut it all up since it was in such great condition.





So sabersaw in hand, I hacked it up and TIG welded it into this:



A few hours of work and I think it came out pretty good!



Moved all the wiring over to the new box.



A few vents on the sides and insulated with 1/2″ closed cell foam.
Nice work R!
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:30 PM   #38
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Acid absorbent material under the battery?
Nice secure box but all that metal invites shorting. Not only something under, without anchoring down there had best be a good insulation above. I see those beautiful expensive babies all bouncing and dead shorting on the lid. Also, don't mix apples and oranges. That you are a 30 amp hookup, that has nothing to do with the batteries. With no intent to install an inverter anything over 8 GA might be overkill. Although I think it is really extra icing on the cake. Bigger always means less loss, but I would be thinking of putting my money in to solar. Your storage is enviable but having that with 400 Watts of Renogy or Windy Nation solar on you roof would mean never needing your generator or a hookup except to air condition and a couple big Fantastic or Maxair vent fans reduce the need for a/C. Ahhhh the silence. Nice job so far.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:42 PM   #39
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Nice job, you could always spray the inside with Plasti-dip or bed liner. That's what I did with the ammo boxes I carry my LiPo's in.


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Old 04-09-2016, 09:51 PM   #40
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Photos of what seemed like a good idea at the time LOL.

Showing whats in the battery box... it fits within the frame rails pretty well... like I said there's plywood on the bottom then the batteries sit on closed cell foam: marine 4 way on negative; 300A fuse on the positive; battery layout; cover over batteries, the box mounted low on the tongue. Vented with two 4" x 12" registers one mounted low in front the other high at the rear. Covering the batteries is plywood. I coated the plywood and box in a DIY bed liner paint.

The batteries are low buck Duracell 230AH GC-2s, the cables - super flexible welding cable #2/0 custom made by owner (bought a 16 ton force crimper), solar controller PWM Bogart Engineering SC2030 with temperature sensor, TM2030 monitor, Magnum MS2012 2000W (w'charger - with sensor), solar panels by Renogy 150W (3) 36 cell and about 39" square. Brackets I made from scrap 2-1/2" aluminum angle and will allow tilting. Cable size from panel begins in 10 awg through the roof, then 6 awg to the combiner then #4 awg.

I moved the 12/2 feeding the AC from the WFCO to the pantry cabinet into a 70A sub panel and a 20Amp breaker. I ran "shore" power there to feed it.

Rather than convert to 50 amp I added a separate outlet in garage (and future AC2) to a weather proof NEMA15, which I can power either on shore or genset. I figure if I ever have to, I can run a small portable AC via this connection with my little Honda and sleep in the garage.

You can see a coiled up yellow 10/2 in the genset box; it is to so I can hookup my little EU2000 generator via the factory transfer switch really, to power the Magnum for charging if ever needed. A 1000W Honda could do this.
WW
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