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Old 09-07-2012, 01:06 AM   #1
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Dim lighting

Well, just to ask...after having gone through the electrical section...as I use our TT as a business office when we are not camping and it is always plugged in to 50 amp shore power. I noticed that I am having a dimming of the interior lights. This occurs frequently and when they dim, the converter doesn't always kick in immediately. Once the converter kicks In, the lights get bright again. I am believing that this is the battery telling me it's time to replace it. When we bought our TT, we bought it used from a dealer and onboard was a used Group 24 battery. As for info on the battery...there was no date sticker on the casing, so "used" is my only info. Was wanting to get through this first camping season with this G 24, as my intentions are to build a larger battery tray this winter and install 2 Group 27's on board. As for using a multimeter and checking the voltage at the battery...that is for later tomorrow. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:16 AM   #2
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OK let us know what you find.
The question I have is while plugged into shore power the lights going dim are the 12 volt DC ones and not the AC fixtures. Correct.

The dimming may also mean trhat your battery charger is not doing its job to charge the batteries.

Didn't know you had 50 amp service in your trailer. Thought it would be 30 amp but then again I don't own one like yours.
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:36 AM   #3
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Later "today" I will check the voltage at the battery. Will post that when I get it. As for the 50 amp...I can run 50 amp service or 30 amp. End result is that if I run 30 then I can only run 1 of the air conditioners. If on 50, I can run them both. Planning ahead when we bought it, I was provided with a brand new 50 amp power cable. My DW and I bought a 50 amp extension cord, and the 30 to 50 amp converter cable , and just before our maiden voyage in July, we bought a surge suppressor for the 30 amp side. I have stable power from the house to the TT however when the weather turns, or appears like it is going to turn, we drop the breaker to the trailer, so there are no surprises. Future mod is the built in surge suppressor.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:35 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushor
Later "today" I will check the voltage at the battery. Will post that when I get it. As for the 50 amp...I can run 50 amp service or 30 amp. End result is that if I run 30 then I can only run 1 of the air conditioners. If on 50, I can run them both. Planning ahead when we bought it, I was provided with a brand new 50 amp power cable. My DW and I bought a 50 amp extension cord, and the 30 to 50 amp converter cable , and just before our maiden voyage in July, we bought a surge suppressor for the 30 amp side. I have stable power from the house to the TT however when the weather turns, or appears like it is going to turn, we drop the breaker to the trailer, so there are no surprises. Future mod is the built in surge suppressor.
You really cannot check a battery with a volt meter.
If battery has a full charge it needs to be load checked.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:28 AM   #5
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An inexpensive and easy check ( because you don't need to remove the battery) is to check the specific gravity with a hydrometer. Test each cell and look for variations and, if there are variations, use a decent portable charger set to equalize. The battery could "recover" with an equalization, but if there remains a variation, than the battery should be replaced.

I'm on my iPad now (or I'd link to it) but check out the troubleshooting section of the battery users guide in our downloads section ("Files" above in the menu bar).
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushor View Post
.....I noticed that I am having a dimming of the interior lights.
This occurs frequently and when they dim, the converter doesn't always kick in immediately....
Once the converter kicks In, the lights get bright again.....
You may also have a loose connection of your main cable coming in.
After checking the batteries if they are going bad or need filling I would check the electrical connections starting at the breaker in the house panel that feeds the trailer then check inside the trailer.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:55 PM   #7
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To all, thanks for the help. Still having the issues with the dimming lights, however...Triguy, used the hydrometer, and all cells checked above 1300 which showed good. Honestly, not what I expected. Iggy, I checked all connections from the battery to the converter. Found one loose connection, however not on a direct battery path. Maybe I'm not alone on electrical, however, here are a few pics of what I have to work with. I am planning on writing my own schematic for our TT, so that once it is fixed or made better...which ever comes first...I will have what I hope will be all the answers on my particular unit. Maybe my thinking is incorrect, however, this is a mess. I also noticed on the haphazard drawing/schematic on the back of the converter door, that I was missing a negative going back to the battery...
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushor
To all, thanks for the help. Still having the issues with the dimming lights, however...Triguy, used the hydrometer, and all cells checked above 1300 which showed good. Honestly, not what I expected. Iggy, I checked all connections from the battery to the converter. Found one loose connection, however not on a direct battery path. Maybe I'm not alone on electrical, however, here are a few pics of what I have to work with. I am planning on writing my own schematic for our TT, so that once it is fixed or made better...which ever comes first...I will have what I hope will be all the answers on my particular unit. Maybe my thinking is incorrect, however, this is a mess. I also noticed on the haphazard drawing/schematic on the back of the converter door, that I was missing a negative going back to the battery...
Additionally, I can rule out the house panel...we too, her for another weekend adventure and the same issues were there also.
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