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06-24-2017, 04:41 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 97
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Don't over complicate using the Zamp Port
I've read several posts on connect non-Zamp PVs through the Zamp port. Most of it sounded very complicated. When it got down to it, I cut the wires coming out of the back of the Zamp port and soldered a a new piece of red wire to the black wire coming out of the port and a section of black wire to the red wire coming out of the port. Then I connected to the power controlled--red to positive and black to negative. For the wires coming from the panels I soldered a CES plug on the end and sealed with shrink. Checked it all with a multi meter.
Not a big deal
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06-24-2017, 08:42 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Argyle Tx
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Less is More
I've read several posts on connect non-Zamp PVs through the Zamp port. Most of it sounded very complicated. When it got down to it, I cut the wires coming out of the back of the Zamp port and soldered a a new piece of red wire to the black wire coming out of the port and a section of black wire to the red wire coming out of the port. Then I connected to the power controlled--red to positive and black to negative. For the wires coming from the panels I soldered a CES plug on the end and sealed with shrink. Checked it all with a multi meter.
Not a big deal
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What if you reversed wires coming out of the controller to a SAE plug to plug into Zamp plugin? Wouldn't that suffice the reverse polarity vs. buying an adapter?
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06-24-2017, 08:43 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Argyle Tx
Posts: 90
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Is the male part of the zamp plug positive?
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06-26-2017, 08:27 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDNAVY
Is the male part of the zamp plug positive?
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Yes, it assumes the female part of the panel wire is positive, even though you have 12V power from the battery live on the trailer port all the time. I made a special cable to plug into the Zamp port with a lighter socket on the other end so I could use the port to power low-amp lights or other things outside the trailer.
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06-26-2017, 08:41 AM
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#5
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Broken Toe
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Imperial (St. Louis) MO
Posts: 3,745
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Or...
You can buy the $9 adaptor plug and be done with it.
https://thesolarstore.com/zamp-solar...3kMaAl5b8P8HAQ
Tim
__________________
FROG Member MO-0008-571 Since 20124444444444My Project Blog: https://cowracer.blogspot.com/
"Camper" 2016 Rockwood Signature Ultralite 8329ss
"Casper" 2017 Ram 2500 Laramie Diesel
..ProPride 3P Hitch - "Yeah. It's worth it."
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06-26-2017, 01:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 114
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The Zamp port is simply wired reverse of the standard way that SAE connectors are wired. I believe they do this so they can put on the sticker that informs you that your new trailer is prewired for solar, but only Zamp can be used. Anyway, I simply reversed the cable coming from my solar controller at the controller (screw terminals) and all is well. No adapters or cutting and splicing necessary. Good luck
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06-26-2017, 01:44 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterrick
The Zamp port is simply wired reverse of the standard way that SAE connectors are wired. I believe they do this so they can put on the sticker that informs you that your new trailer is prewired for solar, but only Zamp can be used. Anyway, I simply reversed the cable coming from my solar controller at the controller (screw terminals) and all is well. No adapters or cutting and splicing necessary. Good luck
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X2......This is exactly what I have done as well. Perfect!!!!
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Rick & Brian
2023 Flagstaff 206STSE
2019 Flagstaff HW29SC ( sold )
2017 Salem Cruise Lite 232RBXL ( sold )
2014 Ford 150 XLT 5.0 2wd
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06-26-2017, 03:22 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Central, Fl.
Posts: 1,330
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I'm fortunate to be able to leave my RV plugged in. Is the Zamp port only to charge the two house batteries ? If ever needed what can it handle ? What is suggested size solar panel to extend the battery life with minimal usage ?
__________________
2018 Forester 3011DS (Purchased 04/26/17)
2010 Flagstaff 26 RLSS (Sold 05/16)
2012 Ford F-150 Ecoboost, Screw, H/D, 3.73
1930 lbs CCC
2014 Jeep Rubicon JK
Going where the weather suits my clothes.
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06-26-2017, 10:13 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Millcreek UT
Posts: 341
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what I did - ZAMP
I bought a SAE pigtail from Autozone wired it to Anderson Powerpole connectors that I use by the hundreds. Powerpoles are genderless so any pair can mate with any other pair. I think my ZAMP goes back to the power panel and then back to the battery so I wired a cable from the two house batteries on the tongue to skip the extra cable length.
When connecting to two 12 Volt batteries in parallel make sure you take the Positive connection from one battery and the Negative connection from the other. If you take them both from the same battery the charge/load will come more from the battery you are connected to.
We have two 50 Watt panels and a single 160 Watt panel. Most of the time the batteries are recharged in a few hours after the night's use.
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08-27-2017, 09:25 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Lockport NY
Posts: 52
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The trouble with the standard for SAE DC 2-pin connectors is, there is no standard.
You buy a set of them and what you get is a pair of connectors with red and black wires between the molded connectors. On one end, the red wire goes to the male part, on the other, it goes to the black wire.
This all works fine if (and only if) you pay attention to which end is the source of power and which end is the consumer of the power.
If you use one end, wire it up correctly and it works, then throw the spare end in the toolbox, when you need another end, and wire it up red-to-red and black-to-black without thinking about if it is the source or consumer end, chances are 50-50 you will have the wrong end.
So, sometimes, you will just have black-to-red splices with these connectors and need to stop and think, and probably use a VOM to be sure you are doing it right.
It's not hard to see how ZAMP simply chose one way that's not the same as other solar panels use. It could be deliberate, or it could just be chance.
I agree with the other poster - Anderson Powerpoles are the way to go.
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05-02-2018, 08:50 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowracer
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I couldn’t find this on their website today. But it came up when I clicked on the link you posted. Glad I remembered that you posted it.
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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05-02-2018, 08:56 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delco Bobby
I couldn’t find this on their website today. But it came up when I clicked on the link you posted. Glad I remembered that you posted it.
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Whoa, $9.00 for the adapter and $17.43 for UPS ground shipping. For perspective, $112 for next day delivery.
Never mind.
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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05-02-2018, 11:15 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: KS
Posts: 2,369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delco Bobby
Whoa, $9.00 for the adapter and $17.43 for UPS ground shipping. For perspective, $112 for next day delivery.
Never mind.
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Or get this....all you have to do is splice the wires black to red.
CES 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057ZQJ12..._oYO6AbSNWHRJZ
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05-03-2018, 07:15 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbledan
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Just added it to my cart.
Thanks
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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05-03-2018, 01:00 PM
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#15
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Certified Curmudgeon
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Here
Posts: 3,999
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Thats the one I used as well. If you do it the easy way, you can get a spare adapter out of the deal just in case.
__________________
Mike Dropped
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