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Old 11-18-2014, 10:18 AM   #11
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Thanks KenHwy61. It sounds like I may be out for a new circuit panel/converter. I will check everything out first, though. Still praying it will be something easy (and cheap!).

RPAspey, the battery checked out fine with the meter, but I assume you mean a load test at an auto parts store. I've read lots of battery posts, and I am confused as to whether you even need to have your battery connected when you use shore power all the time. Some say yes, some say no. The battery is a few years old, so that could be an issue. Thanks.

gljurczyk, I appreciate the step by step voltage check instructions. That will be very helpful.

It might take me a few days to get to it, but I will let you know how it goes. At this point, I might just hope it is just the converter and get off the bucks and get it fixed.
You definitely need a battery when hooked to shore power if you have a wfco converter.
The new progressive dynamics "cant remember model" does not require a battery but is recommended.
All other progressive dynamics model require a battery.
Not sure about other brands like parallax or xantrax.

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Old 11-18-2014, 11:06 AM   #12
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I am attempting to attach a picture of the panel and converter that I had taken previously. I think it is a WFCO converter and assumed since it was not a stand alone converter, I would have to replace the circuit panel, too, but I've found out that is not the case. I can just hardwire the new (Progressive) converter to the old panel. Thanks, TURBS, I will check the battery as indicated while checking the other voltage.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:28 PM   #13
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I am attempting to attach a picture of the panel and converter that I had taken previously. I think it is a WFCO converter and assumed since it was not a stand alone converter, I would have to replace the circuit panel, too, but I've found out that is not the case. I can just hardwire the new (Progressive) converter to the old panel. Thanks, TURBS, I will check the battery as indicated while checking the other voltage.
You will see it the same board you would want to change that to takes about 15 mins. wire to wire thats all. If you do not change the control board you will not get the wizard. If you just want a convertor WFCO and the old board PM me and you pay the shipping and I'LL send you my old one FREE of cost.....
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:25 PM   #14
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It was the battery. It checked out fine with the meter, but when a load was put on it, it went down to nothing. I hate it that I need to have a good battery even though I'm using 100% shore power. No worries, though. I will steal the one from my boat until I can get a replacement. Thanks to you guys, I didn't go out and buy a new converter. Appreciate it!!!
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:47 PM   #15
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Thanks for updating us with your resolution. Its nice knowing exactly what was wrong as it helps everyone.
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:17 PM   #16
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I'm glad it was only a battery. Learn a few things myself from these wise guys. I mean wise guys only in the literal sense of course!
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:32 PM   #17
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Actually you do need a battery even thought you always have shore power, even with a new convertor, Trailers with electric brakes must have a battery powered break away switch to activate the brakes in case of a breakaway. If you store the RV for long periods of time between uses, look into adding a "Battery Tender" not a trickle charger. I keep my RV connected to a Battery Tender when ever it is not being used.
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:14 PM   #18
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You definitely need a battery when hooked to shore power if you have a wfco converter.
I've had three WFCOs that run fine when the battery is disconnected.
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:18 PM   #19
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I've had three WFCOs that run fine when the battery is disconnected.
It will "work" without a battery but highly not recommended!
Especially when moving slides in and out.
Just because they worked doesn't make it right.

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Old 11-21-2014, 05:20 PM   #20
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Don, make sure you charge your battery overnight every 30 days, then disconnect the battery from the camper so the LP detector and fridge control board don't kill it (within a week or two). Reconnect every 30 days. Or, if you keep everything plugged in make sure you check the water level in the battery often to be sure the converter isn't boiling it away. Downside to leaving it plugged in is a camper will use a fair amount of energy just sitting there. My prior camper used 35 watts with everything off - about half as much as a home fridge. Your other option is a battery tender as mentioned above. Disconnect the battery from the camper if you use one.

I'm stressing this because with your description it doesn't sound like your last battery was maintained properly. It was heavily sulphated to drop so low under a light load.
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