View Poll Results: What type of Power Protection do you have?
Pure Surge Suppression 2 10.53%
EMS with Surge Suppression 16 84.21%
Autotranformer with Surge Suppression/EMS 1 5.26%
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-07-2014, 02:38 PM   #1
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Red face Electrical Problem Liklihood (Surge Suppression VS EMS)

First of all I want to thank all those that participate in this forum. It truly is a ocean of knowledge for all to benefit...

My question revolves around the liklihood of a problem which causes damage to my new FW. I have reviewed most (if not all) of posts here as well as other forums and truly believe that the progressive industries products are the best... I know that I will get either a PI surge suppressor or an EMS. My question revolves around the liklihood of damage caused to an rv... Is it more likely to occur due to a surge of power... or because of low or high power...

Money is as tight here in our house as it is anywhere else and I surely don't want to spend more than I need to... but I also don't want to overlook what might be a more common power issue that a spike/surge.

I appreciate your comments here as both the DW and I review these message on a daily basis...

DW believes that surge suppression is all we need... And if money were no object I think that either a Frank's or Hughes would be the all around ideal solution... However, as I said money is an issue and I believe the compromise of using an EMS is the better compromise...

Again, please let me know your thoughts on whether the surge suppression option would/could be the solution to 99+% of the issues/problems. I know this is talked about alot but I have not seen any discussion on the likelihood of any fault compared to the other...

Lastly, POLL above does not include option of not having any power proection at all as that is NOT an option for DW and I. At a minimum we will have a surge suppressor. (But we prefer to make the right decision ONCE.)

Happy Travels,

Bill n Diana
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:52 PM   #2
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If you get the progressive or TRC they protect you from both. TRC are a little cheaper but only comes with a 2 year warranty. Either low voltage or a spike will cause the same damage. More then likely you will encounter low voltage more then a spike. Some CG have very old and low power lines and even alum. wire a drop of 10% below you Full loaded amps will fry your stuff up electronics. A spike will do the same thing but I would consider that high voltage it will jump up 10% or so. You are more likely to get a spike during an electrical storm. Progressives are warrenty for life but you do pay for it in the cost. Both work the same. Just make sure you get one with a time delay built in, VERY IMPORTANT....For when the power comes back on. Your a/c will need time to equalize pressure. or you will go off on internal over load. That's not good for a compressor. It will shorten the life of the compressor.
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:28 PM   #3
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Ems all the way.



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Old 03-07-2014, 03:32 PM   #4
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I agree that low voltage is most likely. We have a EMS on our 5er. If we see a fault code we can either move to a different site or switch over to battery power. Like was said above, make sure you get a time delay if you plan on heavy use of the A/C.
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:50 PM   #5
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PI EMS works for me. Saved us three times last season. Truthfully, jot sure if there would've been damage or not. One was when one hot on the 50a pole was bad and the others were low voltage.

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Old 03-08-2014, 07:04 PM   #6
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Click Switch in A/C & Refrigerator ???

Thanks for the input thus far.. The DW has a friend who works in the A/C sales business... He has told her that non of this is needed because the A/C and the refrigerator both have click switches....

Does anyone know what a click switch is and can you describe it for me... I have my personal thoughts on this click switch thingy but i don't want to step out and possibly cause undue/unwarranted friction is this friendship....

Thanks for enlightening me on click switches...

Happy trails,

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Old 03-09-2014, 05:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill n Diana View Post
Thanks for the input thus far.. The DW has a friend who works in the A/C sales business... He has told her that non of this is needed because the A/C and the refrigerator both have click switches....

Does anyone know what a click switch is and can you describe it for me... I have my personal thoughts on this click switch thingy but i don't want to step out and possibly cause undue/unwarranted friction is this friendship....

Thanks for enlightening me on click switches...

Happy trails,

Bill and Diana
Okay I did HVAC for 20 years. A click switch is a set temp disk that is wired in, your FAU use's one for a temp over heat problem. You also have them on your water heater, Your a/c has one internally in the winding area. A click switch will not stop anything on low voltage, high voltage or a spike in power. It's used as a heat sensor. If your a/c is running during a brownout out or power failure and then then pops back on your a/c compressor will not start because the high and low side has not equalized yet. It go's into what is called lock rotor. You would not know until you felt hot air only. At that time the click switch will stop power to your windings until you shut it off and it cools to the point of auto reset. Your a/c has to be turned off for this to happen, A guess but maybe an hour or so depending on how long it was on before you discovered it and shut the unit off your fan would still work. As far as a refer, never heard of one except in the coil area that it is attached to, when the coil gets hot that is what makes your cooling fan comes on. All equipment has a variance of plus or minis 10% for voltage if you go higher or lower you will start to burn the unit up not even knowing that it is happening until one of the boards go out. I hope this helps and I think that is what he talking about. It will not stop surges, low or high voltage....Spikes in power burn out more appliances then anything else. You might get a surge of 160 volts that is where you have your problem even if it for 1 second. by the way a click disk will open from low voltage to the compressor due to the higher heat and it is trying to run. At least get a surge protector.
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Old 03-09-2014, 06:38 AM   #8
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Let me add one more thing, click-on's come in temperature rated from 110 to 190 degrees mostly. They also come normally open like for the refer. when coil hits a set temp it closes and bring the fen on (if you have a fan, they mostly come in slides if that where your refer is located) the others are normally closed to let power pass. when there is a heating problem they open to break the circuit. Also your convertor is not protected at all.....
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:53 AM   #9
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Thumbs up Thanks and another follow-on question???

Again, thanks to this wonderful collective brain trust... The wife and I ordered and have recieved our portable PI 50 EMS unit. I had thought that the security collar would have been a more heavy duty material and am considering other means to add to security of this device.

Right now I think I can get several links of heavy duty chain wrapped around the power cord and use it to secure portable unit to power pole... But I am also thinking of whether it would be beneficial to both engrave and stencil our names on one or several of the large flat areas around or behind the face of the unit.

I welcome your thoughts and details on how you all might have added to security of the expensive tool to avoided the likelihood of dreaded discovery of inadequately secured highly regarded pilferable property gone missing.

Again thanks and Happy Trails.

Bill n Diana
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:46 AM   #10
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I just wrap a plastic coated cable and lock around it. It will stop the average person but if a thief wants it, he will get it. I also installed a motion sensor light on that side. If that light comes on it will deter them atleast. Names engraved is not a bad idea incase you spot it somewhere but they all look the same. don't let that spoil your trips. There is really not that many being stolen. You could also by an alarm that would be set off if taken, use fish line so they can't see it to trip the alarm.They sell these little battery ones and leave it at the pole when they remove it it will set it off.......
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