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Old 08-21-2014, 07:46 AM   #11
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I did something similar. I hit the battery disconnect, but I left the battery in the trailer over the winter. Come spring, it still had 12v so I figured everything was good. Charged it up and went out on our first trip. After a couple of trips, it wasn't working and down to 8v, one more trip, it was down to 1v!

I thought for sure the battery was toast. So, I dropped the trailer off at the dealers to check the converter, and the battery off at a battery store (Not an autozone type place, but a place that does nothing but batteries) to have them check the battery. Both came back saying there was nothing wrong.

The battery place apparently charged my battery using a modified mig welder turned industrial strength battery charger while the battery sat on a old paint shaker that vibrated it while it charged. They load tested it and said everything was fine.

Sure enough, I've reinstalled the battery in the trailer, and I haven't had an issue (with the battery) since. I'm sure in the long run I've shortened the overall life span of the battery, but at least I didn't have to go buy a whole new battery.

Cost of the battery place to check it out? About $16. Well worth it.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:59 AM   #12
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Fuses on reverse polarity side good. Power to that side, nothing to fuses just to the right of them as illustrated by turbs picture. I have reset the breakers, and those feel fine. Well, they reset like a good one does anyway
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:01 AM   #13
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Fuses on reverse polarity side good. Power to that side, nothing to fuses just to the right of them as illustrated by turbs picture. I have reset the breakers, and those feel fine. Well, they reset like a good one does anyway
Follow your positive battery lead from the battery to your current limiter.
See if it needs reset.

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:07 AM   #14
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Ok. Tried disconnecting the battery, shore power alone, and I get squat. Outlets read 120, ceiling fan turns on, microwave and fireplace turn on, no lights. Of any kind on 120v, but they worked when battery hooked up. Monitor panel for water,sewer etc still not working along with fridge when on shore power alone. Did not work when battery hooked up either. Have reset all gfi's and even looked for a reset switch of anykind near the battery. Shore power alone should make all things work, correct? What am I missing
My hunch is the converter needs the battery (good one) which also acts as a buffer to smooth out the 12v current output. Can you just put in another good 12 v from a vehicle to test that. Then, you'll know if your bat is toast.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:22 AM   #15
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Rechecked somebody's work and found the black wire had been turned around to the negative side. Reset said somebodys work and all seems right with the world. Monitor panel, fridge, hot water heater and ac fan. Suprised it didn't blow the fuses, and even more surprised landing gear worked to allow me to get hitched up. Fridge cooling now. Will go out and light pilots for water heater and fridge in a little while. Will have to kick somebodys arse for putting me thru all this. Thanks for everybodys help. Try not to be too judgemental on somebody, ok?
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:25 AM   #16
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Rechecked somebody's work and found the black wire had been turned around to the negative side. Reset said somebodys work and all seems right with the world. Monitor panel, fridge, hot water heater and ac fan. Suprised it didn't blow the fuses, and even more surprised landing gear worked to allow me to get hitched up. Fridge cooling now. Will go out and light pilots for water heater and fridge in a little while. Will have to kick somebodys arse for putting me thru all this. Thanks for everybodys help. Try not to be too judgemental on somebody, ok?
is white your other cable ?

Good to hear!

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #17
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White is the other cable, yes. But even with battery disconnected, shouldn't shore power be enough to run things?
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:33 AM   #18
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White is the other cable, yes. But even with battery disconnected, shouldn't shore power be enough to run things?
Not always. I've heard some converters require the battery to be inline to run.

And in some other cases, I've heard the converter can shut down if the battery is too low.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #19
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White is the other cable, yes. But even with battery disconnected, shouldn't shore power be enough to run things?
It's common for the black to be positive and white being ground.
There basically mimicking the 110v wiring.
confusing I know!

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Old 08-21-2014, 09:11 AM   #20
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Try not to be too judgemental on somebody, ok?
Never!

That's what we're all here for. To help if we can, and get help when we need it.

Glad you got it figured out. As I stated it my first post, the black wire can be the positive and this easily get's confused when reconnecting a battery.

As Turbs pointed out, it's more akin to house 120 volt wiring color schemes, even though it's a battery like an automobiles 12 volt wiring. If it was all so simple, we wouldn't have a need for this forum.
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