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Old 06-22-2016, 07:56 AM   #31
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 81
Originally Posted by jmsokol View Post
The "Hot" wire is also known as the "Line", and it
All modern electrical appliances (and your RV) should have the incoming Neutral wire isolated from the chassis. The Chassis is connected (bonded) to the incoming Ground wire in the power cord, officially known as the EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor), and also know as the Safety Ground.
Mike Sokol
One additional thing to note is that since the Neutral is supposed to be isolated from the Ground inside of your RV, even if you connect to a pedestal or power cord with swapped Hot and Neutral, that can't cause a hot-skin voltage. However, if someone has incorrectly bonded the neutral and ground together inside of your RV's breaker panel AND you have an open ground (EGC), then you'll energize the chassis and skin of the RV with a high-current 120-volt potential. Note that wiring an RV with an internal G-N bond is a violation of all NEC and RVIA codes, so you should never see this on a modern RV. However, I've seen this incorrect G-N bond done with DIY wiring, and some older (60's) RVs had this dangerous wiring condition from the factory.

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Old 06-22-2016, 12:38 PM   #32
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 5
Electrical issues

Thanks to all for your replies and explanations. It would appear that this is a serious safety issue. I reported this to the RV Park Manager.

I monitored the Analyzer throughout the night and it did eventually return to a normal (green/green) reading.....

I'm going to purchase a Voltage Regulator to protect me from this happening in the future....I believe this should resolve the safety concern for me....If anyone knows any different resolution outside of waiting for the Electrician... please feel free to chime in.

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