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Old 12-30-2015, 06:35 PM   #11
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My RBST will drop from fully charged to half charge in two weekes with nothing on except the CO detector.

None of the information that I received upon purchase shows a wiring diagram or fuse/circuit legend. I think that you will just have to check every possible load in the camper to determine what that fuse feeds, then check the loads for a problem. It could always be a pinched wire somewhere that is not a full short, but a partial that pulls around 8 or 10 amps. Also check that the break-away switch plunger has not come out. That would give you a steady draw of about 6 amps.

The factory wiring on my unit is routed improperly under the floor. There are a number of areas where it just sits on top of a frame member. See photos

Jouncing and bouncing over the road can wear through the insulation at those points. I enclosed mine in plastic tubing for protection. You might want to do a visual check on yours.

Also, for $3.60 you can get a shunt for your voltmeter. This one reads up to 50 AMPS:

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Old 12-30-2015, 06:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by stuckinchina View Post
Sorry about the lack of information in my earlier post. I'll do my best to explain what I'm finding. .
I shortened your response but it explained your problem much better. I think I now understand. Since the fuse does not blow, I can safely assume that either you do not have a true "dead short" or the fuse is highly over rated (dangerous situation). A few more questions:

1. How are you reading the short? Ohmeter? If so what range is it set to when you read the short? Normally you would look for a dead short in the RX1 mode. If you are reading through a light bulb, a transformer, or some diodes in the RX1000 or above, you will see what appears to be a short but is really just low ohms (a light bulb can be ~300 ohms, same for a transformer).

2. Is this a new to you unit or has this issue started since you have owned the unit? My battery will draw down after 3-4 days because the radio has a memory and standby mode, tank sensors and the propane monitor are always on whenever the battery is connected.

3. If the unit has just started doing this, have you added anything? Screwed anything to the walls?

4. Is the installed fuse the correct rating for the circuit?

If none of the above helps, then you must have a parasitic load from somewhere (and it may not be in the circuit you suspect). As another suggested, you will need to remove the loads powered on this circuit one at a time to determine the one that is causing the problem.

Electrical problems can be a real bear to resolve but it is satisfying when you finally figure it out (based on my 24 years as an Navy aircraft electronics tech)!

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Old 12-30-2015, 06:53 PM   #13
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You Da Man onetonford! one of my kids must have turned on the 12 volt switch on my refrigerator and didn't tell me. In fact, didn't know it ran on 12 volts. Thought is was only 110V and propane. Learn something new everyday if you listen huh? This explains the battery drain but the short is still there. Sparks fly when I plug in that #6 fuse but still doesn't blow. This doesn't bother me as long as it doesn't effect anything else and doesn't drain the battery in just a few hours.
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Old 12-30-2015, 08:32 PM   #14
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Hey Limblips, thanks for your response. Here are some answers to your questions.

1. I'm getting my readings from a multimeter set on the 200 Ohm range. I'm far from an electrician and only know when the reading goes to 0, I've got a short. That's about the limit of my knowledge.

2. The unit is fairly new to me and to be honest haven't used it much. I bought this thing so my grown kids could go camping without having to use my truck. My toy hauler is too big for their vehicles and while I didn't mind them using the toy hauler, I hated them using my truck. With the pop up, they can use their own vehicles.

3. I haven't added anything other than a battery disconnect switch as part of a remedy for the original problem of battery draw down.

4. The installed fuse is only 10 amps and as far as I can tell, it's the correct size.

Bluepill, I got under the unit the other day and checked all of the wiring underneath and like yours, they did a pretty piss poor job of it. I found the same things you did and installed wiring sheathing and tape at some of the location where the wiring was rubbing on the frame. I looked at the breakaway switch the other day and it looked ok to me. Thanks for your reply.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:24 PM   #15
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Does your fridge have a humid weather switch to reduce condensation? If so is it on as this is an electric element that warms the perimeter to help reduce condensation. Do you have an ammeter? If so try setting for 15A or higher pull fuse #6 and carefully insert one probe in each of the two fuse holder contacts. Let us know what the current is. That may help narrow down what is drawing current. The break away switch should go directly to the battery thru a large fuse.


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