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Old 05-08-2016, 07:17 PM   #11
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 6
Originally Posted by Tom48 View Post
Well I am a big advocate of Solar. With 200 watts on our old TH we only used the generator when A/C was needed and we have only used hook ups three or four times ever. Pre Wire is a big leg on for going solar
I hear there is a deception in Zamp running their polarity opposite of normal connectors, but that can be determined with a volt meter. I noticed the 100 watt starter version of the 200 watt system I put on our old toy hauler is on sale for under $200 on Amazon. Probably free shipping but for sure free shipping if you go to direct
Most of our camping is also done without hookups so I am interested in the solar potential. I will look into your suggestions on Amazon.

2014 Vengeance 19V Toy Hauler
2007 Ram 2500 HD 5.9 Cummins Turbo
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:55 AM   #12
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 6
Well I just got off the phone with my local dealers service department and they had no firm answer of what they were for. They asked if everything seemed to work OK without them hooked up and if so to leave them disconnected. I asked if they could be a prewire for solar and they said possibly. So no help there and really not surprised.

Being that they are not labeled and on the info gathered here I will leave them disconnected for now.

2014 Vengeance 19V Toy Hauler
2007 Ram 2500 HD 5.9 Cummins Turbo
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:24 PM   #13
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 3,296
Try taking a multimeter on resistance and check resistance between the wires. Of course if it's close to zero the wires are shorted and you shouldn't hook them up. If it shows a very high resistance or infinite resistance it possibly has an open switch somewhere or the wires are disconnected.

I'd go to the RV and check everything in and around it to see if there's anything that doesn't work. If you find anything, that's probably what the wires are for. If you find something that doesn't work, and you got anything except a short during the during the resistance test, I'd hook up the wires and see if that item works now.
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a 2500 Mega-Cab CTD!
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:39 PM   #14
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 65
Originally Posted by barret View Post
This is my first time connecting the batteries since picking it up from the dealer last fall. They had red and white #6 gauge wires only hooked up. I noticed a sticker on the side of the frame that read white to negative and black to positive. Since this didn't match the wire coloring I looked around and found a loop bundled under the battery tray with two #10 gauge wires white and black with eye connectors which appear to be ready to hook to the battery also. Should I hook these or leave them disconnected?
Do you have Volt/Ohm meter? If not get one. Sometimes free with coupon and ANY purchase at Harbor Freight .
Meanwhile set the Volt/Ohm meter to Ohms. Hold one probe on the White Wire and touch the other probe to metal such as the frame. The meter should read 0.000. If not repeat the process with the Black wire.
As an alternative, follow the white wire to under the vehicle. It should be attached to some metal such as the frame.
NOTE: USUALLY the colored wire, Black/Red is Hot or Positive.
The wire that tests 0.000 between it and metal frame is your Negative/ground. Connect that wire to Negative Battery Terminal.
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:28 PM   #15
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 48
I would check if there is a voltage between the two "unknown source/destination" wires in question. If so, I would make sure they are wrapped separately so they cannot contact anything. If not, connect them together and check for continuity at the Zamp connector. If continuity, disconnect the two wires in question to see that it opens the circuit. If so, issue solved.

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